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Shooting a Mile

I feel it would add to the legitimacy of this thread if target size and hit percentages were also shared. Dunno about you gents, but I've got better things to do than lob 20+ rounds at an old truck hood just to say I "hit at a mile"...

IMHO, if it takes more than three shots to get on target, and/or hits can only be achieved under the most ideal atmospheric conditions, then whatever cartridge one is using is very likely...inadequate.

Can appreciate shooters pushing the distance envelope, so long as the expectation of actually making a first round impact is based in reality. If not, you're just lobbin' snowballs at a school bus & hopin' for a hit...
 
I feel it would add to the legitimacy of this thread if target size and hit percentages were also shared. Dunno about you gents, but I've got better things to do than lob 20+ rounds at an old truck hood just to say I "hit at a mile"...

IMHO, if it takes more than three shots to get on target, and/or hits can only be achieved under the most ideal atmospheric conditions, then whatever cartridge one is using is very likely...inadequate.

Can appreciate shooters pushing the distance envelope, so long as the expectation of actually making a first round impact is based in reality. If not, you're just lobbin' snowballs at a school bus & hopin' for a hit...


Everyone needs to start some place. If I was in their position I would make sure I had enough elevation to get that far and try it. Once you try it you will know what you need. It is like the guys who ask "What do I need to shoot 1k?" If you even tried it you would know.

When I first shot at 1mile well lets say it was not good. I did get on paper and kept them there. It was not good but learning happened. Today if you were sitting in your car at one mile. I could get the first round into the passenger compartment on the first shot. With the second shot the driver would have a very bad day.
 
I feel it would add to the legitimacy of this thread if target size and hit percentages were also shared. Dunno about you gents, but I've got better things to do than lob 20+ rounds at an old truck hood just to say I "hit at a mile"...

IMHO, if it takes more than three shots to get on target, and/or hits can only be achieved under the most ideal atmospheric conditions, then whatever cartridge one is using is very likely...inadequate.

Can appreciate shooters pushing the distance envelope, so long as the expectation of actually making a first round impact is based in reality. If not, you're just lobbin' snowballs at a school bus & hopin' for a hit...
^^^^^^^ THIS!! Whenever someone asks a question on this forum similar to the OP's, I always assume they are asking about a legitimately viable, repeatable and predictable option. I don't consider targets larger than 2 moa to be legitimate targets because vital stopping hits on things that I can possibly eat, or that can kill me, will not be larger than that at the ranges we are discussing. And if I can't hit those targets on demand, then it isn't an actual capability.
 
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In reference to my above post, just recently out west, I hit a steel silhouette at a mile on 1st shot. I did go 1,000, 1,500 first but made windage and spin drift corrections before I took the mile shot. Hence my comments on taking lots of data notes about distance/conditions.
 
First thing for guys in the East is to find a steep bank with no vegetation or at least a cow pasture where the grass in very, very short. You have got to see the bullet splash to be able to walk it in. A 7 mm 180 gr makes enough splash to be spotted. 338's and 375's with 300 gr plus bullets are much easier to spot. The Dasher 6mm's can be seen if contitions are near perfect. For Dashers I pick a time when wind is dead.

 
Tom that is a nice looking pistol round on the right. ;)

When it is dry and I mean dry. It helps a person spot the impact as it kicks up much dust. When it is moist the ground can just suck up bullets. Even the big stuff.
 
He starts about 1425 fps with a 540 grain pp bullet if I remember correctly.
You very well may be right, I may have spoken out of context. We both belong to a WY long range FB group, he told the story, neat stuff with those rifles.
 
Well this thread turned into a useless bunch of garbage. Or possibly a big organ contest for a few of you.

If you want to try shooting at a mile a 6.5 Creedmoor will work......and yes, so will a Dasher and a number of other 6.5 and 6mms

For those of you that don’t believe that, I really don’t care.

Once he’s tried it and established that yes he likes it or wants to pursue more repeatable shooting, then move up.

But to shoot a mile, his current gun will work. However he’s going to need to have some serious elevation adjustment in there. Upgrade your scope and mounts and then the rifle.

Have fun!
 
BC, twist rate and muzzle velocity are very important, but it also depends on the elevation where you shoot. At 6500 ft elevation in light 4-6 mph winds at 1 mile range, a 260 Rem and a 6.5CM with .6-.65 BC bullets, 2750-2800 fps, and 8 twist barrels worked well for me - at a long range shooting school. 25X scope with 80 MOA vertical adjust and 20 MOA rail. My scope was pretty new. I have read that even the higher quality scopes can deteriorate quite a bit with a high round count. I found it more difficult to consistently hit 1 MOA targets at 1100 yds at sea level with the same gear and slightly higher 5-8 mph winds.

Although I’m sure it’s possible, I agree with Meangreen that 6.5 or smaller calibers are not the right tools to shoot a mile, if you are at low altitude, or even at high altitude if you’re trying to win a match.

Buy him a longish barrel 338 LM, or take him to the mountains to shoot the 6.5CM, but either way he needs a good scope with the right setup. Reticle choice is important too. He needs one with mil or MOA scales in both H and V directions. Most people like to hold left or right using the reticle markings to adjust for wind and dial their adjustment for elevation, but the elevation scale comes in handy when you can’t dial any further and you can hold over a bit to take care of the rest.
 
I have never shot at any range close to that distance. But if just wanting to try the game is the goal then a 6.5 will work. I base this belief on the fact that a 45-70 with a 500 grain bullet traveling 1350 fps can make it to 2500 plus yards then a 6.5 can do it, and do it better.

Edited, The 45-70 reference is from my limited knowledge of the Sandy Hook tests with the 45-70. The bullets went through 2 inches of wood and about 8 inches of sand at that distance.
 
The way you asked the question; I would suggest a 300 Win Mag with a light - 150gr match type round and a 30 MOA rail. I love the Creedmoor for accuracy, but the WinMag can reach out there. It would be a good cartridge to build a rifle around. Heavy/Bull barrel and quality glass, plus as much money as you can afford on the fine tuning mods.
(Pillar mount, glass bed, bolt truing, trigger work, etc.)

But that's just me. I'll defer to the more experienced users here for better advice.
 
It’s not as easy as a ballistic chart makes it look. Stand there holding your Kestral and watch as the projected poi changes radically moment to moment, and then think about how clueless (or clued in) you are of the conditions 1 mile away...

It’s not just some of the factors mentioned. It’s all of them in a huge way, and several that weren’t mentioned including which direction you’re shooting. The right equipment and ammunition only makes it possible. Kestrels and ballistic computers just make it faster. What gets impacts is how well you read conditions on a 2.5sec flight path and how good your dope is to targets at those ranges. If you have a box of 100 cartridges you may get a few hits. It helps to shoot at a 10’ target too!

I don’t say it can’t be done with a high efficiency 6.5, but I don’t think you’re doing yourself any favors. Give me a big magnum pushing a 200gr+ VLD any day. I shoot .300WM, and these days that’s considered weak.

If he really wants to do it, he should take a LR class from someone who does it. That way it actually becomes a skill and isn’t just a meaningless summit done once and then forgotten.
 
Why not let the guy try with what he has, small mods to gear. He can make the choice if it is worth pursuing, if he plays his cards right and gets target placement down, a non windy day, have some fun. One mile is a far cry from a 5K poke.
I highly suggest gathering some data at 15-1600 first though, a guy learns a lot every 100 yards downrange.
 
If my memory serves me right, using 230 Bergers it took me 75 MOA to hit at a mile. I would have to shoot it often to get good. Every day seems to be a new experience that far. We had a lot fun. Only problem was farmland like I have to shoot on was a 2 mile round trip to check target.
 
Agree on the comments. I should have pointed out on my above post. Last time I did this, it was with a .338 LM. Would be a whole lot easier with a .338 than 6.5. I used a 300g Berger @ 2800. Was still supersonic at 2,000.

Ditto on the scope. A NF ATACR is perfect scope for this kind of shooting.
 
I hiked over to the 2000 yard spot and stood a rock up so I would be sure to know if I hit it.



I took 5 shots with the Cheytac and every shot was close. I let Junebug try and on his second shot (#7 total) the rock was broken by the 350 gr bullet.



Junebug and I hiked over and Bug packed the rock fragments out and gorilla glued it back together for a memory. Looks like impact was just below center.


 
The way you asked the question; I would suggest a 300 Win Mag with a light - 150gr match type round and a 30 MOA rail. I love the Creedmoor for accuracy, but the WinMag can reach out there. It would be a good cartridge to build a rifle around. Heavy/Bull barrel and quality glass, plus as much money as you can afford on the fine tuning mods.
(Pillar mount, glass bed, bolt truing, trigger work, etc.)

But that's just me. I'll defer to the more experienced users here for better advice.

A 150 Berger match type bullet at 3400 FPS needs 114 MOA to get to 2000
A 215 Berger @2950 FPS needs 80 MOA to get to 2000...all else being equal.

And then there is the wind......
 

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