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Shipping container as a Shooting caben built to suppress sound

cw,
You ain't building this rig close to a golf course along the eastern seaboard are you? ;). You might get over run with helpful volunteers!

I reckon I just moved up a few notches on the watch list.
 
I shoot my 308 with a subsonic with my 220gr load dead quiet. I am stuck with the noise of the breaking the sound barrier. this is out in Washington state so I will trees along the edge of the range. The range is a bet over 400yr nice to load testing. right now working an a high flow ventilation system right now. Also does anyone what kind of lighting I need to have over my chronograph to make it work inside. thanks for some of your guy input
 
cw_3302 said:
I shoot my 308 with a subsonic with my 220gr load dead quiet. I am stuck with the noise of the breaking the sound barrier. this is out in Washington state so I will trees along the edge of the range. The range is a bet over 400yr nice to load testing. right now working an a high flow ventilation system right now. Also does anyone what kind of lighting I need to have over my chronograph to make it work inside. thanks for some of your guy input

No light or power needed with the MagnetoSpeed chronograph.

MagnetoSpeed LLC
9206 Rod Rd. STE C
Austin, TX 78736
 
For ventilation, I used the largest attic vent fan I could find. Most come with the outside housing. Very easy to engineer into a system.
 
I am working on putting in a Fantech high floats 6 in ducting that is be controlled.It is there commercial grade unit
 
When I built mine, i figured on an equal entrance and exit hole size. 3 ft. Round in ( shooting position) 3 ft exit vent pipe, with the fan in it. That way, all powder fumes/smoke, lead dust/fumes, moved immediately away from the shooter. Air flow down range. 6 in. Duct won't have enough volume of air movement for your purposes.
 
joshb said:
Mass is your friend, coupled with vibration isolators. Years ago, I built a shooting range in my basement. I cast a 4 ft. X3 ft. Round Section of aluminum pipe into the concrete foundation at " shooting height".( standing pistol). From the foundation, I buried 80 ft. Of 6 ft. Corrugated steel culvert pipe out into the yard, with a 3ft vent pipe, at the end. The problem was, my shooting location was right under the kitchen sink. To deaden the sound (after extensive research) I built a room with double thickness drywall inside. Then I built another room inside that, with 2 more layers of drywall (mass) and a 1 in gap between all the walls and ceiling. (Vibration isolation) AND then another room inside that, same procedure.. The mass of the drywall and the gaps, did the job. I could shoot my 44 Magnum, right under my wife, while she was cooking, and she couldn't hear it ( if the TV was on). Outside, at the vent pipe, a bunch of bushes muffled the report to the level of a muffled clap. After 15 years and tens of thousands of rounds, I never had a problem, well, except that all my friends came to shoot my reloads. Of course, we down sized, sold that house, and moved into a smaller property. Thought about a new range, but here we have bedrock too high to make it feasable. I miss that house.

You get the award for motivation in my opinion.
 
That's very kind of you to say. Actually, I came out on the short end of a negotiation with my wife. I'm a retired carpenter/builder. Back then, my wife decided I had to build her a new kitchen. Then a new kitchen and family room. Then, since I was already at it, it might as well be a new kitchen, family room and master bedroom suite. In return, I "could" build my shooting range.
 
You gotta love shooting, to do all that we do to pursue it. I am laughing loudly as I type, not at you, but all of us. Our wives must be future saints, "Our Mother of the Tiny One Hole Group".
 
From your picture it looks like your shooting position is inside your house or garage and you are shooting to a target in your back yard? Your local housing codes may not permit this. You have very limited visability to the left or right through the box opening to see if people are nearby.
 
When I built my range, I went to visit the local building code architect to get approval. His response was classic. " We don't have anything on the books, for this, so I guess you are OK. Can I come use it?" I'll never forget it. After suffering years of over the top regulation and stupid requirements, he didn't have a code to "beat" me with.
 
BoydAllen,

Good pix of proper sound proofing. Flat panels don't work well. The acoustic chamber material has many angles so that each sound wave is reflected many times into sound absorbing material, not just once. Looks very expensive. Gypsum board is a very poor choice.
 
The cheap version is to cover with exposed fiberglass insulation (fibers exposed) covered loosely with chicken wire. The only down side is that just looking at the stuff makes me itch.
 
I have tried sound absorption in a few contexts.

The the one that was most diligently pursued was a mainframe computer room. The method that worked best functioned by breaking up the sound wave reflections inside the room itself. We covered small (computer punch card) boxes with carpet swatches, and mounted them on the walls at random distances apart. It helped. The ceiling already had acoustic tiles, and the floor was off limits. At least we didn't have to shout at each other as much.

Another project involved an outdoor rifle range. We would bind several car tires (13" worked better) into cylinders, suspending them with their centers at bore height, and firing the rifle with the muzzle projecting partway into the center. The tire walls provided some baffling, and shot echoes were reduced.

One item to keep in mind... Wasps, etc., like to build nests when the range is deserted, and they can get mightily peeved when somebody touches off a shot several inches from those nests. Punch/cut drain holes in the bottom of each tire to prevent mosquito breeding.

Sound studios and music rooms can be acoustically isolated by building an acoustic wall. Separating two sills, and two headers by several inches, then putting up studs alternating between 2x4's and 2x6's provides at framework that can have fiberglass insulation woven from one end to the other in the gap between the two frames. Close the wall normally with dry wall on both sides. As long as there is no mechanical connection between the two frameworks (except fiberglass), sound transmission though the wall can be substantially reduced.

See if there might be some modified application of these tries to your project.

Greg
 
I have tried sound absorption in a few contexts.

The the one that was most diligently pursued was a mainframe computer room. The method that worked best functioned by breaking up the sound wave reflections inside the room itself. We covered small (computer punch card) boxes with carpet swatches, and mounted them on the walls at random distances apart. It helped. The ceiling already had acoustic tiles, and the floor was off limits. At least we didn't have to shout at each other as much.

Another project involved an outdoor rifle range. We would bind several car tires (13" worked better) into cylinders, suspending them with their centers at bore height, and firing the rifle with the muzzle projecting partway into the center. The tire walls provided some baffling, and shot echoes were reduced.

One item to keep in mind... Wasps, etc., like to build nests when the range is deserted, and they can get mightily peeved when somebody touches off a shot several inches from those nests. Punch/cut drain holes in the bottom of each tire to prevent mosquito breeding.

Sound studios and music rooms can be acoustically isolated by building an acoustic wall. Separating two sills, and two headers by several inches, then putting up studs alternating between 2x4's and 2x6's provides at framework that can have fiberglass insulation woven from one end to the other in the gap between the two frames. Close the wall normally with dry wall on both sides. As long as there is no mechanical connection between the two frameworks (except fiberglass), sound transmission though the wall can be substantially reduced.

See if there might be some modified application of these tries to your project.

Greg
For it to work you must shoot the bullet sub sonic also . Larry
 
I shoot my 308 with a subsonic with my 220gr load dead quiet. I am stuck with the noise of the breaking the sound barrier. this is out in Washington state so I will trees along the edge of the range. The range is a bet over 400yr nice to load testing. right now working an a high flow ventilation system right now. Also does anyone what kind of lighting I need to have over my chronograph to make it work inside. thanks for some of your guy input

If you choose to stay with optical, this is what I used -
(850nm is closer to visible light)

http://www.ledlightsworld.com/smd50...xible-led-strips-60-leds-per-meter-p-249.html

You'll need a 12v power supply (or battery) capable of delivering about .7A for 2 strips (as in a CED chrono) or about 1A for 3 strips (Oehler 35P)

Tried it indoors with a black piece of leather over the top of the diffusers with no problem. Also outdoors with a blue sky but no sun, also worked no problem.
 
Years ago we had a range at school. Baffle system comprised of 55 gallon drums layed on their side with layers of insulation on the inside, and on the outside. Don't recall if it was two or three drums deep. The drums had those removable tops and the bottom was removed to put a removable top there also. They had a hole cut in the top so you had about 6-8" ring of metal on the top and bottom of the drum. You shot thru the middle of the drums. Most of the shot noise was contained in the barrels. The sonic boom was restricted by the half walls on either side of the shooting lane. You could hear the bullet smack into the bullet trap, but the folks in the welding shop upstairs could not hear the shooting.
 
Years ago we had a range at school. Baffle system comprised of 55 gallon drums layed on their side with layers of insulation on the inside, and on the outside. Don't recall if it was two or three drums deep. The drums had those removable tops and the bottom was removed to put a removable top there also. They had a hole cut in the top so you had about 6-8" ring of metal on the top and bottom of the drum. You shot thru the middle of the drums. Most of the shot noise was contained in the barrels. The sonic boom was restricted by the half walls on either side of the shooting lane. You could hear the bullet smack into the bullet trap, but the folks in the welding shop upstairs could not hear the shooting.
At 100 yards the bullet still sound the same as it did suppressed or not . Larry
 
The cheap version is to cover with exposed fiberglass insulation (fibers exposed) covered loosely with chicken wire. The only down side is that just looking at the stuff makes me itch.
Yes that will absolutely work, but you do t want to be breathing the little fibers that will forever be floating
around.
 

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