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Shell Holder

blvedere

As I understand it, the shell holder holds the case at a certain height for each different number holder,ie a number #2 holder holds the case at a different height than a #10, and is used to set case neck back if that is desired. am I correct in this assumption ( yeah I know about assume). If I am correct does a #2 hold it higher than a#10?
 
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Are you asking about the Redding Competition Shell Holders or regular Shellholders?
This is from Redding.
Now you can control headspace. The new Redding Competition Shellholders are packaged in five piece sets in .002” increments (+.002”, +.004”. +.006”, +.008” and +.010”). Each shellholder has a distinct black oxide finish and is clearly marked to indicate the amount it will decrease case-to-chamber headspace. You can now easily adjust the shoulder bump to customize cases to your specific chamber.

I use them and like them.
 
I think but don't know if he is asking about the Redding Comp. Shellholders. If I understand your question then the #10 sizes the least and the #2 the most. That is IF you are talking about the Comp Shellholders..

Here is a YouTube video that might help explain the Redding Competition Shellholders

 
Lone Hunter said:
Are you asking about the Redding Competition Shell Holders or regular Shellholders?
This is from Redding.
Now you can control headspace. The new Redding Competition Shellholders are packaged in five piece sets in .002” increments (+.002”, +.004”. +.006”, +.008” and +.010”). Each shellholder has a distinct black oxide finish and is clearly marked to indicate the amount it will decrease case-to-chamber headspace. You can now easily adjust the shoulder bump to customize cases to your specific chamber.
Click to expand...

True, if the case had head space, the chamber has head space, the case is used to off set the length of the chamber. I have one set of Redding Comp. shell holders, I paid $5.00 for the #6 set, I thought that was a bargain, I can make 5 standard shell holders out of the Comp. set.

I have never struggled with a shell holder, the deck height of my shell holders is .125". There was a time when grinding the top of the shell holder was fashionable, I have never found it necessary because I use loose fitting shell holders/ My RCBS shell holders fit like a hand me down shirt, they fit where they touch. If I find it necessary to increase the length of a case from the shoulder to the case head I adjust the die off the shell holder. I make the adjustment with a feeler gage. I can accomplish more with a feeler gage than I can with 5 shell holders.

And then there are cases that have more resistance to sizing than the press can overcome, when that happens I raise the case head off of the deck of the shell holder with a feeler gage/shim, and then there are short chambers, I can reduce the length of the case from the shoulder to the case head .010" at adding a feeler gage between the case head and shell holder deck.

I can size a case from .010" shorter than a minimum length/full length sized case to infinity beyond a field reject length gage, I have never found it necessary, I have found sizing cases that are .016" longer from the shoulder to the case head than a minimum length/full length sized case is practical. Practical? I have a 30/06 chamber that requires I add .014" to the length of the case between the shoulder to the case head to get that .002" clearance.

Again, I have shell holders that fit the case head with no clearance. I find those shell holders to have utility.

F. Guffey
 
If the Redding shellhoders don't provide you either the minimum OR the maximum headspace adjustment you find you need, the solution (other than adjusting dies up/down) is to figure out exactly what headspace you need to get it "dead nuts" on and then modify a shellholder using one of two techniques...for example if you, for some reason, need a .012" shellholder (or more), all you have to do is TIG on some buildup and then machine it back down (PRECISELY) until your depth mic measures .012 inches. If you should find a need a .001" shellholder you can merely machine down your "least needed" (or get one out of a yard sale set or whatever) shell holder until the depth mic measures .001". And there you go....nuttin' to it besides a little careful measurement and careful/accurate machine work---and you can either surface grind it or use a milling machine Or a cery carefully set up lathe and just take a "whisker" off on each pass (after indicating it in to be sure the cut is square to the rest of the shell holder)---do whichever CAREFULLY, just do your very best to cut it SQUARELY!!
 
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Guffster, you made sense till the end...when you went off into oblivion and beyond.

So you have a 30-06 you load for that has a crap chamber. Okay...so what? So you create brass that fits this monstrosity by firing it and letting it stretch and then resizing with your feeler gauge. Again, good for you, but that has NOTHING to do with working with chambers made within spec.

But to imply that Redding shellholders are worth only 5 dollars so you can make them "standard" by shaving them reveals just how intractable and headstrong you are in your methodology. Did it ever occur to you that you could simply read the instructions and do them? Not a dang bit different than your shims and feeler gauge method, except you know you are getting .002 difference in the shellholder, with no adjustment to the die? And no wobble? And no fiddling?

oh, i forgot, due to your brass being "recalcitrant" you can use a feeler at .003 not .002 0r .004, avoiding a mismatch with NO HEADSPACE in your gun, right? Sheesh, you finally pushed me over the edge.

You really need to stop once in awhile and listen to yourself.
 
snert said:
Guffster, you made sense till the end...when you went off into oblivion and beyond.

So you have a 30-06 you load for that has a crap chamber. Okay...so what? So you create brass that fits this monstrosity by firing it and letting it stretch and then resizing with your feeler gauge. Again, good for you, but that has NOTHING to do with working with chambers made within spec.

But to imply that Redding shellholders are worth only 5 dollars so you can make them "standard" by shaving them reveals just how intractable and headstrong you are in your methodology. Did it ever occur to you that you could simply read the instructions and do them? Not a dang bit different than your shims and feeler gauge method, except you know you are getting .002 difference in the shellholder, with no adjustment to the die? And no wobble? And no fiddling?

oh, i forgot, due to your brass being "recalcitrant" you can use a feeler at .003 not .002 0r .004, avoiding a mismatch with NO HEADSPACE in your gun, right? Sheesh, you finally pushed me over the edge.

You really need to stop once in awhile and listen to yourself.
Click to expand...
He can't listen to himself, he has no headspace
 
If Guffey insists on being a broken record, then I may as well present my method- I am a fan ;) of these:https://www.brownells.com/search/index.htm?k=skips+die+shims&ksubmit=y
They can be used with any standard 7/8" threaded dies, any conventional press and the results are dead nuts repeatable. $13 investment that will work for every cartridge I load for vs. $60/ comp. s/h set- I would need 4 different sets AND I can control case HEADSPACE:D ( yes I said HEADSPACE) to 0.001" -which is important to me for competition cartridges. Guffey's method with feeler gauges did not yield enough consistency for me besides being a Rube Goldberg fix of which I am not a big fan for precision reloading.
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LHS, I agree completely with your method and choice of tools. Considering an affinity with and relationship personally with Redding, i use that product cause i only use one set...for PPC.

But you make a great point and offer a great tool option.

But Guffster has you...rally...just ask him
 
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