Shehane tracker stock finish

[bhoges]

I'd like to know if anyone out there has finished a tracker stock like the Indian Paint one? I used to paint cars and have experience with doing a few stocks. I've heard that the african wood stocks are difficult to seal since they are so purous. In the past I used water based sealer to fill the pores. This stock I want to finish In a high gloss automotive poly finish w/no pinholes. Any input would help. Thanks

 

[jb1000br]

send an email to Kav, if he doesnt see this first.

paintfumes @ hotmail.com,remove the spaces)

JB :thumb:

 

[bhoges]

thanks i already spoke to mike in texas about doing the job. its $300 for the finish alone. i was going to try it myself. just wanted input as far as materials used to fill the pores. i feel funny asking a guy that does finishes for money who he does it so i can do it myself.

 

[Muzza]

Hi,

I finished my shehane tracker myself a few months back and i am happy with the results,
This was my first attempt at finishing a stock and I only had my garage to do it in.

I followed the advice of a friend which was:

Use Automotive 2 pack clear, I found some without the nasty stuff in it.

Apply the first thick coat with a brush, to make sure that you get plenty on to fill all those pores.

let it dry for 2-3 days, then sand back so there are no brush marks or flaws.

Then spray the next coat let dry for 24-36hrs and sand, and repeat this step until you have the desired number or coats /finish. I ended up with 4 coats.

I am not sure if this is by the book but it worked for a novice like me, with good results.

BTW the shehane tracker is an awsome stock!

Good luck with your project

Muzza

 

[bhoges]

thanks for the input but in looking for a way to fill the grain before i clear it. i intend on using glasurit a 2 part system from germany. this has to be sprayed. i hope someone knows of an easy way to close out the grain w/o having to load it up w/tons of material.

 

[cntryboy1289]

The easiest way I know of is to use Acraglass. Mix up the epoxy and then with gloved hands, rub it into the wood. Rub it just like if you were buffing the finish. Now, some say to let it dry and then sand back down to bare wood, but do like I do and use a clean rag to wipe across the grain which will leave the glass in the pores and allow to dry. Leaves the stock completely filled. I would do this after dewhiskering the stock as well so you can move straight to the primer coat when the stock is dry and lightly sanded.

 

[Kav]

Mr Hogan, I use resin to fill with first from West Systems then come back over it with clear.... usually to get it show finish with no pits takes ~3-4 clear sessions. Do not wet sand until you are sure you will not break throught the clear or you'll have problems. Have a good one, Kav

 

[bhoges]

so your saying to use fiberglass resin to fill in the pores. does it change the color on a wood stock? im going to be finishing a tracker stock w/indian pattern. after this is done and sanded how many coats of clear did you have to spray on? and is the finish smooth enough that i wont have to wet sand?i know i have to block down the resin but id hope the clear wont need to be.its got to be tuff to wet sand and polish a rifle stock. im going to do a high gloss finish so it will have to be totally filled. i think ill try a test on something before i do the stock. i dont what to ruin a $500 stock! thanks for the imput. ill let you know how it comes out. i hope to have the stock ready in 2 months.

 

[Kav]

so your saying to use fiberglass resin to fill in the pores. does it change the color on a wood stock? im going to be finishing a tracker stock w/indian pattern. after this is done and sanded how many coats of clear did you have to spray on? and is the finish smooth enough that i wont have to wet sand?i know i have to block down the resin but id hope the clear wont need to be.its got to be tuff to wet sand and polish a rifle stock. im going to do a high gloss finish so it will have to be totally filled. i think ill try a test on something before i do the stock. i dont what to ruin a $500 stock! thanks for the imput. ill let you know how it comes out. i hope to have the stock ready in 2 months.

No, The resin looks yellow but you won't notice any difference.. now if it was white no way but you wouldn't see the difference in colors esp an Indian Blanket. I spray 3-4 coats/ session. you go with too many coats w/o air flow esp in summer it will solvent pop. You will have to sand between clear sessions or it will never fill the pits,you are basically using 80.00/quart clear as a primer. Many will tell you to use some sealer stuff from wood shops but I wouldn't use anything that is not catalyzed. And if you want one to look like glass you have to sand and buff it which I do to all my stocks. Good luck, Kav

 

[cycbb486]

What about just using Tru Oil as a finish on one of Bill's stocks? I have a Varmint Tracker on order and was thinking of just oiling it. It is a lot easier to get dings out. Or is this not recommended on a laminate stock?


Calvin

 

[cntryboy1289]

I like to use Arrow's wood finish on them. I have done 6 stocks lately using the finish. You can leave it a matte finish or take it up to a good gloss as well using your hand to buff the finish in.

 

[cycbb486]

When you mention buffing the finish by hand what or how are you doing it? I think of buffing as using a buffing wheel.

 

[cntryboy1289]

I normally rub the finish dry by rubbing it with 400 grit sandpaper, you can start with 300 grit and progress up to the grit you want to. The finer the grit, the higher the gloss will become. I normally work up to 600 and then use the back side of the paper to burnish the stock. I get a better gloss by buffing it by hand. You could use a cloth to buff, but I build up heat when buffing it by hand and it just brings out the shine. The sandpaper will leave it with a matte finish, and the cloth and hand leave it glossier. The thing about this finish is that you can control the degree of shine that you want by the way you buff it. It costs like $8 + shipping and I get the 4 oz bottles. I have done 6 stocks on half of one bottle. On hunting stocks, i leave the finish with a dull matte finish. here is a pic of what I am talking about.

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.php?u=182726oEkr&i=115783

And here is a Remington 1100 forearm that I am preparing to checker that is hand buffed a few coats, not quite finished yet, but you should see the shine,

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.php?u=182726oEkr&i=151653

I used to use pure raw tung mixed with dark raw tung and BLO and then polished the stock using rottenstone, then 3f pumice, and then the final rub out with 4f pumice. here is a pic of the difference.

http://www.solisearch.net/ims/pic.php?u=182726oEkr&i=115789

You can take the finish to the same gloss by using the Arrow's and sanding the stock out to 1000 grit paper and then hand rubbing it each time and it only takes a week versus atleast a month to a month and a half using the oil.

 

[cycbb486]

Cntryboy, just a few more questions for you.

How do you apply whatever you are going to put on the stock? Rag or brush?

I take it you let it dry before the sanding. How about 0000 steel wool instead of sandpaper?

I think this is the last and most important for me. The stock that I am getting is going to be a light Grey laminate. I do not want to darken it if at all possible. The only thing that I think I could use to finish is a water based varathane like Flecto Diamond Wood Finish. If I go with an oil will it not yellow it? Any suggestions would be appreciated.


Calvin

 

[cntryboy1289]

http://www.shootersolutions.com/arwoodfin.html

Here is a link to the product. Just follow the instructions in the package. I haven't noticed any yellowing effect with this product. I have seen it on some stocks that were finished using BLO and one that was Tru Oiled. I don't dewhisker the stock before I apply the first coat. I use sandpaper to rub the finish dry and to cut the whiskers and fill the stock with them and the oil. This stuff will fill, seal the wood and waterproof the gun, and gives a very good oil finish all in matter of days. I work up to 600 grit paper and then apply the last few applications by hand and buff them into the finish. You can use a rag or cloth anytime you want to and do the same thing, just not as good of a shine to me. It will be as smooth as a baby's butt in about three applications. My wife really likes it and I have done some furniture repairs with it as well. You can take a knife and slice off a sliver of wood, use this stuff with 400 grit paper and buff it dry and you cannot tell where the wood was cut off at. Good luck with it.

 

[cycbb486]

Cntryboy, THANKS A MILLION! Thanks for the link. I am just going to have to order me some of that Arrow Wood. Looks like it is exactly what I have been looking for. You just made my night.


Calvin

 

[cntryboy1289]

Hope you like it. After I read the instructions that came with it, it was very easy to do. Show me the pics when you get it done.