Sheared Seized Remington 700 Screw

[xs hedspace]

Bubba sez--drill through the base while the other screw holds it in position, use the new location for the second screw. To look cool, epoxy in a dummy screw in the buggered location, so people think there's three screws holding the base on!! ;D

 

[pbike257]

Has the Scope Base screw hole been fixed yet? We want to see pictures.

Paul

 

[tunacan]

I had the screw milled out, but I cant get the barrel to break from the action. The threads might be galled, but I cant get it to move either way.

The machinist suggested maybe cutting the barrel off and boring until we can pick the barrel threads from the receiver threads

 

[RandyB]

What are you using for action wrench and barrel vise? I do not advise cutting the barrel off and boring until you find threads. If you have a good barrel vise and wrench you can use the recoil lug to your advantage. Set it up in the vise where you position the wrench to push down. Then take a 2 lb hammer with a brass drift against the flat of the recoil lug in the direction to unscrew it. This is easier if you have some help. Load the wrench with some torque and place the drift against the lug and knock the #?*! out of it. This is directing the impact against the recoil lug/ action face/barrel shoulder junction and not over torquing the action. Because of the work to the scope base screw I would flood the threads with oil and go slow unscrewing. Your barrel vise must be good. Last but not least your machinist can cut a relief groove in the barrel at the shoulder/lug junction. This one of those things that is easier to show than explain.

 

[jscandale]

One issue that I have run into with Rem sporter barrels is that there is very little shank to grab a hold of. THere might be a half inch or so to grab. If the bbl is trash, just cut a parallel section in the lathe just in front of the action for about 2" in order to get a 100% grip on the bbl in the bbl vise. Use a propane torch on the action to heat it up to about 300 degrees or so and it should unscrew with a little brute force.

JS

 

[pbike257]

In the lathe with a parting tool, take a cut .040 in front of the lug, cut it about 1/8" deep. This will take all of the force off the face of the action. Then with the barrel in the vise with a good action wrench, the barrel should come loose very easily.

By the way from the first set of pictures it looks like a "Pipe-fighter" and a set of Rigid 24" pipe wrenches already had fun with this barrel and action.

Paul

 

[STS]

In the lathe with a parting tool, take a cut .040 in front of the lug, cut it about 1/8" deep. This will take all of the force off the face of the action. Then with the barrel in the vise with a good action wrench, the barrel should come loose very easily.

By the way from the first set of pictures it looks like a "Pipe-fighter" and a set of Rigid 24" pipe wrenches already had fun with this barrel and action.

Paul

Thank you. I've been waiting for someone to apply a little logic. It took a bit longer than I expected.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Only problem is, that just parting the barrel doesn't address the very distinct and likely possibility of galling the threads in the action when the barrel comes out. Brute force is not the answer. Cut the screw completely out, blow the hole out well and flood with oil before turning out the barrel, is my advice. Been there more than a few times.

 

[pbike257]

Only problem is, that just parting the barrel doesn't address the very distinct and likely possibility of galling the threads in the action when the barrel comes out. Brute force is not the answer. Cut the screw completely out, blow the hole out well and flood with oil before turning out the barrel, is my advice. Been there more than a few times.

It's my understanding that the screw was removed with the carbide end mill already. Never had a problem with blued chrome-moly steel barrel, and a blued chrome-moly steel action. Introduce stainless into the equation and now you could have trouble.

Paul

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Paul, you may be right. Four pages discussing getting a broken scope base screw out, and I did lose interest for a while. Sorry if that's the case.---Mike E.

 

[rwk]

Take your action to a machine shop and have them EDM the screw out least amount of damage.

 

[pbike257]

I had the screw milled out, but I cant get the barrel to break from the action. The threads might be galled, but I cant get it to move either way.

The machinist suggested maybe cutting the barrel off and boring until we can pick the barrel threads from the receiver threads

It sounds like the screw is out?

 

[Ggmac]

Wht do you just drill and tap another hole ! Plenty of bases that fit the contour ,it will be covered by the new base.

 

[pbike257]

I line up the action in the mill and re-drill all four holes, 2 rear and 2 front. I drill and tap for the 8-40 screw and use that. In doing so, I ensure that all the new holes are in the same line and indicated to the center line of the action. 8-40 is not a commonly used thread size, but it is common to gun-smithing. Brownell's and various other sources stock the screws and taps. You'll have to open up the through holes in the bases in most cases, but some bases (the good ones) already have provisions for using the 8-40 screw. I can't remember any instances of scopes flying off Remington 700's so I don't think the strength of a 8-40 screw is needed over a 6-48, but the point that you now have new holes and new threads all in line can't be argued.

Paul

 

[jscandale]

I line up the action in the mill and re-drill all four holes, 2 rear and 2 front. I drill and tap for the 8-40 screw and use that. In doing so, I ensure that all the new holes are in the same line and indicated to the center line of the action. 8-40 is not a commonly used thread size, but it is common to gun-smithing. Brownell's and various other sources stock the screws and taps. You'll have to open up the through holes in the bases in most cases, but some bases (the good ones) already have provisions for using the 8-40 screw. I can't remember any instances of scopes flying off Remington 700's so I don't think the strength of a 8-40 screw is needed over a 6-48, but the point that you now have new holes and new threads all in line can't be argued.

Paul

Paul,

As I am reading your post, I am thinking to myself...why didn't I think of that!! It's what I do to all of my own rifles anyway. Just goes to show ya, sometimes, you just can't see the forest for the trees.

JS

 

[carlsbad]

+1 for rockchucker, professional work, and carbide.

 

[alintx]

Put a fitted case in the chamber and hose the back of the barrel with kroil and let it soak over night. Might fill that screw hole up and do the same. If it won't come loose after a relief cut some a$@ hole may have put locktite in it. Heat may be required

 

[swd]

This thread is from 2013. I hope he has the screw out by now...

 

[ab_bentley]

This thread is from 2013. I hope he has the screw out by now...