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Sheared Seized Remington 700 Screw

butchlambert said:
Too much run out in the quill and chuck. It would also be difficult to hold the receiver rigid enough.
+1. The end mill wouldn't even last one revolution before busting all of the flutes.

JS
 
Why not drill and tap it for a larger screw and then just drill the base to handle the larger screw size. Maybe just do the same to all of the base screws.
 
I would take a center punch and give it a couple sharp little hits and use the centerpunch to walk it straight through.If it ruins the threads,drill them all to match and tap 8-40 thread.Brownels makes a great little kit to do it with.I just did a savage that had the same exact problem.It was easy and took about an hour start to finish.
 
Pull the barrel and plunge into the broken screw with a 4 flute, center cutting endmill. It is a through hole and the screw will probably run out the bottom. Plunge the center with a slightly undersize endmill and clean the hole up with a 6-48 tap.

Looks like someone already tried the cheap way.
 
wwbrown said:
Why not drill and tap it for a larger screw and then just drill the base to handle the larger screw size. Maybe just do the same to all of the base screws.


Good idea. I was going to suggest he buy a one piece Weaver base and drill a new hole about 1/8" ahead .
 
;D hey tunacan, take this old & rusty 700 action to someone that has a drilling jig & buy a # 28 carbide drill & 8x40 tap--redrill & tap all 4 holes, now you got a good system------- take care Craig
 
kendog said:
tunacan said:
Barrel can't come off until the screw is out


Bullsh*t.

When the head of the screw is sheared off and acting as a set screw on the barrel then yes......It needs to come out first. Maybe my vise and wrench just doesn't work as it should.

butchlambert said:
Probably spent more on bandwidth than a pro would charge.

Like I said in the first page of the thread.....I will let you know how it turns out. Im going to a machine shop close by my house tomorrow. He has an end mill and the proper equipment to do the job.

People like to tinker, including me. I like to do what I can just for the fact that I want to and it gives me some sort of satisfaction. Thats how you learn and I have learned that I don't want to buy the necessary equipment to tackle this one.

CONSIDER THE THREAD CLOSED SO I DON'T TAKE UP ANYMORE BAND WIDTH. I DO APPRECIATE THE COMMENTS AND SUGGESTIONS THOUGH
 
Tunacan,

You are correct! You don't learn a thing without going through the motions. Someimes people forget that before they start typing their comments from thousands of miles away. Keep on truck'n and enjoy the ride!

JS
 
Tunacan,
The only dumb question is the one you don't ask. I think what Butch was trying to say is that if you send send him some work. He won't have time to waste bandwidth replying to you with his rude comments. Thats what I get out of it anyway. If you look at all the time he is spending posting. he's not getting a whole lot of work done or he doesn't have much to do.

TEXMAG
 
I don't do work for anybody except for myself and family. Have you ever decapped 2000 rounds of 223 with a Rockchucker press? My sons better love me.
 
Butch,
Thats the same press I use, we do have something in common. I am sure they will be happy you where able to do all that for them.

TEXMAG
 
from what i get from this thread is it may be a tap in the hole instead of a screw. very few screws are harder than a twist drill. also if the screw is that hard it has a lot of carbon in it and welding will result in a lot of pits from the carbon.
I think the poster that had the idea about the sight drilling jig would be the best cheap way to go with a carbide bit. haveing the barrel out would also be a good idea so when the bit grabs the screw goes out the bottom of the hole.
any ways good luck,Darrell
p.s. as rusty as the action is the barrel threads are probably rusty also, put some brake fluid on and let it soak over night
 
I read through this rather quickly looking for my answer. I didn't see it, maybe I missed it... Has anyone suggested the old trick with the left hand drill bit? In your mill you can set up for the center of the hole and use a left hand drill bit. drill the screw out. If the drill bit snags it will bring the screw out of the hole, which is what you want to do anyway. After the screw is removed, remove the barrel and set up for re-drilling and tapping all the holes to 8-40. You have to have a good mill and vise to really do that job any justice.

Paul
 

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