Setting up 22-250

[general]

so i currently have a Savage 11FCNS in 22-250 and will be rebarreling soon. would like to set it up to shoot heavier 75-75 gr bullets. thinking 1:9 twist but anyway i'm sure i just can't rebarrel without giving some thought about shooting those longer bullets and loading them to a longer length that would be shoving them into the lands. there was a great article in Varmint Hunter Magazine #71 on this. i would like to get some more info if any available. don't have a reliable gunsmith i know around me that would specialize in small calibers or could have lots of knowledge in what i want to do. any recommendations out there on business that may be able to help me in any way? thanks.

 

[jonbearman]

Sid Goodling of Goodling rifles.com

 

[bheadboy]

R. W. Hart & Son, Nescopeck, Pa

Bob

 

[Kenny474]

If you want a good Savage smith, look to Larry Racine in NH. There is also Nat Lambeth who is a member of the forum (Rustystud). They will both do a very good job, though I am more familiar with Larry's work myself, and will tell you he is one of the best Savage smiths there is.

But, in all reality, you don't need a smith to rebarrel a Savage. It's actually something you can do yourself. You do need a few tools, but it's actually quite simple once you understand the process. And if you talk to one of the barrel makers about what you want to shoot, they can help you with a chamber design that will work for your planned bullet weight.

What you need is to make sure you have enough free-bore (un-rifled area ahead of the chamber) to allow you to load the longer bullets far enough out in the case to keep them above the neck/shoulder junction. Several companies that make barrels and chamber them as well will have you send in a few dummy rounds with the bullet you want to shoot loaded where you want it so they can use a reamer that will accommodate your intended load. You can also call PT&G and have them cut you a reamer as well. And with something as common as a 22-250, Dave Kiff will likely know exactly what you will need for a reamer anyway.

And if you want to shoot the 75gr Berger VLD's, a 1-8 may be a better choice than a 1-9. A 1-9 will let you shoot the 70gr VLD, and it may work with the 75gr as well, but a 1-8 will be sure to work.

So while you may still want to have a smith do it, and that's perfectly fine. You don't need a smith to rebarrel your rifle. If you are comfortable talking to a barrel maker and ordering a chambered barrel, then you could do this yourself. You could even talk to Dave Kiff, have a reamer cut to fit your exact dummy rounds, and then have the reamer sent to a barrel maker to use to chamber your barrel. Then, when you receive the finished barrel, you just remove your old barrel, screw on the new barrel and headspace it with the barrel nut.
You need a barrel nut wrench, barrel vise (not 100% necessary but good to have as it is easier in my opinion) and either a full length sized case to use to set headspace or a headspace gauge. If you want to shoot factory ammo and not just your own handloads, a headspace gauge is the way to go. There are a few other tools that come in handy as well, but these are the basics.

As for a barrel maker, I like Pac-Nor and they are great to deal with as well. Really good people.

 

[general]

thanks all