Setting scope up for 1000 yd,

[GetReal]

Sometimes the "obvious" things are things we miss and get us chasing our tail. So I'll just ask.... (I'll be shooting mostly 600 / 1000 yd F-class, and fixed position 250 - 1000 yards. )

1. I got a 2nd Focal NF NXS 8-32 x 56 that ranges at 22 x (only) Done alot of 100 yards load development and only started shooting out to 1000 yd in the last 2 years. Doing load development I got 0.38" at 100 yd with 6 Dasher... at 22x. Would 32 x make much difference for shooting tighter groups? It would seem to be obviously yes. But I'd rather ask than assume. What's your max magnification, and what magnif and distance do you typically shoot at?

2. Seting the zero stop, I left 4 clicks (1" @ 100 yd) down adjust before I hit the zero stop....just in case. Anyone else do this? I wanted a little down fine tune adjustment rather than the zero stop stopping me a dead center zero @ 100 yd.

Any other free scope setup recommends welcome.

 

[fkimble@charter.net]

Your shooting fixed distances. The ranging at 22x means nothing to you because you know the ranges. Parallex adjustment should be your primary adjustment along with elevation and windage. Nothing wrong with having zero stop a little slow "just in case"

Frank

 

[Turbulent Turtle]

To answer your questions in 1): The 32X should help holding on target more precisely. Whether this translates to tighter groups or not, is something you will find out. I shoot my Majesta at 80X @ 1000yards, the distance at which I shoot the most.
Question 2) Yes, putting in a little slop for a zero stop is not a bad idea. For 100 yards as my zero, I would make it probably 2 clicks (1/4 MOA). I plan on establishing my zero stop at 600yards and leaving about 4 clicks (1/2 MOA) of extra space.

Since you need such a wide range of distances, a 20MOA ramp would be fine for your setup. I only ever shoot at 1000 with some rarer excursions at 600, so I have setup my scope to be as near mechanical zero at 1000 yards as possible, to get the best IQ at my usual distance, and I just crank down to 600. When I do load development at 100 yards, I use a thermometer target and aim for the bottom, almost in the grass and my bullets hit 30 inches above, right in the middle of the frame.

 

[powderbrake]

I have the same scope on my 6BR, and I suggest you always use all the magnification power that you can. The 22x is for using the reticle lines to estimate size and distance. I shoot at 32x, and use the 8x to look for more prairie dogs. I wish it had higher magnification. I tried a 12-42 NXS, but the 12 x limited my field of view to find a prairie dog, so I sold it and got another 8-32 NXS
I do not use my zero stop, I zero at 100 yards , then record on the stock the elevation setting, and the number of lines visible, so I can always return to zero. I agree, having some "down" to adjust to for closer shots is a good idea.
I don't generally shoot to 1000 yards, typically out to 600 yards, and I have a 10 MOA rail.

 

[dstoenner]

I use the same scope for fclass also but mine has 1/8 moa clicks. So i did put a 20 moa rail but then added Burris signature XTR rings. I then used the inserts till I got the 100 yard zero less than 1 rev from the bottom. Mine is 5 moa off. So i just go down all the way to mechanical stop then come back to zero. My scope was made before zero stop was added to these models. This then gives me 30 moa elevation where i only need 23.2 for 1000.

David

 

[swd]

For F Class shoot as much magnification as you can. It would be a rare day to have mirage that would need less than 32X. I use higher power glass and I’m rarely below 42-45x.

 

[Ned Ludd]

I typically use 42X on my NXS 12-42x56 scopes during initial load development for my F-TR rifles (i.e. when shooting groups at 100 yd). However, I do not go above 32-36X magnification during matches at 600-1000 yd because of the risk of cross-firing. Not long ago, I used an F-TR rifle that has an NF NXS 8-32x56 scope for the first time in a 1000 yd match. I was actually surprised at how well that scope performed set on 32X for the entire match. I could easily see and hold tightly on the "X" in the center of the X-ring at 32X magnification. Increasing magnification to 50X or higher would not allow me to see any better or hold any tighter on an F-Class target face. In fact, running much higher magnification than 32-36X would simply increase my risk of cross-firing, without any real increase in scoring potential. This is an observation I have proven to myself over time using a NF Competition scope set at 50X+ magnification during matches. Doing that has bought me little except an increased risk of cross-firing. I have several F-TR rifles with NF NXS 32X and 42X scopes, and a couple IOR-Caldada scopes that go to 36X magnification, and I find that running 32-36X is just right for my eyes.

The key here is that these results are valid for my eyes only. In your shoes, I would run that scope up to 32X for matches for several reasons. First, I can still see some or most of the target number board at 32X, so the risk of cross-firing would not be increased. Second, I find even 32X to be slightly on the low side for shooting groups during initial load development at 100 yd. However, it seems to be plenty for shooting matches at 600 to 1000 yd. Regardless, only experimentation can reveal what works best for your eyes. I would suggest running the maximum magnification that works well for your eyes and doesn't introduce any potential negatives such as cross-firing or significant darkening/degradation of the sight picture. With that particular scope, 32X would be that maximum magnification by default. I'd imagine that cross-firing might be a much lower risk for a rifle shooting from a front rest, but perhaps still not a zero risk. If necessary, you could easily experiment with magnification during the sight-in period (with unlimited sighters) and start the match with what appears best to your eyes. Over time, the selected magnification can be refined according to your wants/needs and the conditions.

 

[JFrank]

15-55 NF comp on a 20 minute rail, zeroed at 300.
I don’t use the zero stop, about 2.5 revs at 1000 yards, puts my scope is close to optical center.

 

[Sandstorm]

I use the most manification i can as appropriate at the time.
I have never said oh its too much........there is never a too much in this game.

 

[TaperPin]

That question is as simple as shooting a group at each of the two power settings. It shouldn’t matter what works for me. Having said that, you’ll benefit from as much magnification as possible.

 

[6MMsteve]

22 to 28 inches high at 100 should get you in the ball park for 1000....for clicks or mils no clue

 

[10XSHOOTER]

I set my zero stops 2 min low. from my 200 yd zero.

 

[Leeman]

Sometimes the "obvious" things are things we miss and get us chasing our tail. So I'll just ask.... (I'll be shooting mostly 600 / 1000 yd F-class, and fixed position 250 - 1000 yards. )

1. I got a 2nd Focal NF NXS 8-32 x 56 that ranges at 22 x (only) Done alot of 100 yards load development and only started shooting out to 1000 yd in the last 2 years. Doing load development I got 0.38" at 100 yd with 6 Dasher... at 22x. Would 32 x make much difference for shooting tighter groups? It would seem to be obviously yes. But I'd rather ask than assume. What's your max magnification, and what magnif and distance do you typically shoot at?

2. Seting the zero stop, I left 4 clicks (1" @ 100 yd) down adjust before I hit the zero stop....just in case. Anyone else do this? I wanted a little down fine tune adjustment rather than the zero stop stopping me a dead center zero @ 100 yd.

Any other free scope setup recommends welcome.

Something else I've not seen mentioned above.

For a dedicated long range rifle (8, 9, 1000 yards) I always set up my sights to be 1min left at 100 yards to account for spin drift at 1000 yards, assuming you have a RH twist barrel. That is then my no wind zero.