SELECTING DIES FOR .260 REMINGTON

[1911cwp]

Well, I am anticipating that my MOA Maximum should be ready soon. I elected a .260 Remington caliber and now am looking to select some dies. I'm trying to be realistic in my selection of dies and anticipated results. I'm not a BR kind of guy. It is a no turn neck so I'm thinking what I need are the following:

* A full length sizer die for sizing new brass and when the cases need it.
* A Lee collect die as I will not be messing with necks or bushings.
* A micrometer seating die
* A Lee crimp die (may not be needed as this is a single shot).
* Body die for use in bumping back between full length sizing.

I will be using these with a Lee Classic Press.

So am I on the right track or not?

 

[BigDMT]

Redding or Forster Competition dies. LEE will only hold you back from your rifle's true potential.

 

[vtmarmot]

Nothing wrong with Lee dies, especially the collet. I use about a 3/16 washer over the case to leave a bit of unsized neck to center the case in the chamber. I also size twice, rotating 90 degrees between sizings. With the body die plus the collet, not sure why you would need the full length die. Also, you don't really need a micrometer seater. You want the Stoney Point tools from Hornady to measure and adjust seating depth, but you can adjust your seating die using these and a little careful trial and error. Incidentally, don't swap out the Lee lock rings with the rubber washer. The washer is to allow the die to be self-centering.

 

[brian427cobra]

I use a Redding type S Full Length die with a .290 bushing and there floating carbide expander ball, Redding Comp Seater, this set up flat out makes good ammo.

 

[BigDMT]

Nothing wrong with Lee dies, especially the collet. I use about a 3/16 washer over the case to leave a bit of unsized neck to center the case in the chamber. I also size twice, rotating 90 degrees between sizings. With the body die plus the collet, not sure why you would need the full length die. Also, you don't really need a micrometer seater. You want the Stoney Point tools from Hornady to measure and adjust seating depth, but you can adjust your seating die using these and a little careful trial and error. Incidentally, don't swap out the Lee lock rings with the rubber washer. The washer is to allow the die to be self-centering.

Good point on rotating case 90 degrees when sizing.

Bad points on the LEE lock rings and no need for micrometer seater.

The rubber washer on the LEE ring may allow the die to float somewhat for centering, but it also never allows consistent die depth when removing and installing the die. The rubber wears, the lock ring moves, etc, its the worst design ever.

The beauty of a good micrometer seater die is that it fully supports the bullet and brass body before seating of the bullet ever begins. This prevents canted entry of the bullet into the case mouth and greatly reduces runout for more "consistent" accuracy.

 

[Shynloco]

Nothing wrong with Lee dies, especially the collet. I use about a 3/16 washer over the case to leave a bit of unsized neck to center the case in the chamber. I also size twice, rotating 90 degrees between sizings. With the body die plus the collet, not sure why you would need the full length die. Also, you don't really need a micrometer seater. You want the Stoney Point tools from Hornady to measure and adjust seating depth, but you can adjust your seating die using these and a little careful trial and error. Incidentally, don't swap out the Lee lock rings with the rubber washer. The washer is to allow the die to be self-centering.

Good point on rotating case 90 degrees when sizing.

Bad points on the LEE lock rings and no need for micrometer seater.

The rubber washer on the LEE ring may allow the die to float somewhat for centering, but it also never allows consistent die depth when removing and installing the die. The rubber wears, the lock ring moves, etc, its the worst design ever.

The beauty of a good micrometer seater die is that it fully supports the bullet and brass body before seating of the bullet ever begins. This prevents canted entry of the bullet into the case mouth and greatly reduces runout for more "consistent" accuracy.

I support everything BigDMT writes. As was said, you get what you pay for. Years ago I when I started out, I bought Lee equipment and have since literally given it all away. That's because it didn't perform as well as RCBS, Redding, Wilson and other quality equipment that is needed when you seek ultimate accuracy out of your rifle's performance. The only pieces of Lee that I thought were "decent" were their dies. The rest...well it might be good for hunting loads, but simply aren't up to snuff when you are trying to put 5 rds successively through the same hole. In precision reloading it becomes a matter of consistency and controlling the variables as much as possible. For that you need the best equipment you can afford to buy. If Lee is the what you like...great! It ain't what I like as it's simply proven not to be able to live up to what Redding, RCBS and Wilson provide. And keep in mind, those aren't that best money can buy. So have at it and I wish you well and success whichever way you decide to go..

Alex

 

[jfseaman]

Redding or Forster Competition dies. LEE will only hold you back from your rifle's true potential.

I guess you never used the LEE Collet die.

Decreased run-out, increased accuracy. I have then for 223, 243, 260, 300WSM.

The LEE collet dies rule.

Seater die, Forster
Body die, Forster or Redding

 

[Clod-NC]

Hi Sc,hi all
Your start isn't that bad in my opinion;Lee presses are great,and I mean it,especially the one you have,do yourself a favor get(whenever you can spare the $)a Challenger press as second help;buy a decapping die(Lee,$10),a Lee collet die in 260($30 all told),a Forster Microseater in 260 Rem,a Redding body die in 260Rem(if they make it)or use a Lee FL die in 7x08 as body die(take the decapping stem out),you won't need a Factory crimp die,ever,as to indexing Lee stop rings you can always use a marker,on both the ring and the die,doesn't hurt,keep the o rings they're pretty good(read G Salazar's article about them in this very forum),you can also upgrade the Lee stop rings with Hornady's or Sinclair's....Get a caliper,a Hornady headspace gauge,a ball micrometer,and good reloading manuals(Lyman's,Hornady's,Sierra's,Speers',Hodgdon's,Nosler's....)and be patient and mindful,it's a load of fun.Welcome to the club,be prepared to spend a lot of money....You'll just love it.

 

[TC260]

I have an MOA in 7mm BR and I pretty much have to FL size cases every time. The overall chamber dimensions are definitely more snug than a typical factory chamber so you're not going to be working the brass an excessive amount by FL sizing. The other thing I found is that you want the cases to feed very easily. You don't have a bolt or anything to push the case in. Mine seems to work best if the cases are sized enough so that they will drop into the chamber on their own or just a little push from the block at the end.

So if it were me buying dies for it, I'd save the money on all the other dies and put it into a quality FL and seating die and call it good.

 

[1911cwp]

Well, first I want to thank everyone for the replies. I've been reloading awhile for pistols with a Dillon 550B. However, I am new to rifles. After a lot of reading I went with the single stage by Lee as I hear so many good things about it. I just couldn't put $300 into a Co-Ax. I have a universal decapper by Lee now. I have read many good things about the collet die. Yes, the crimp die is probably not needed and neither is the FL die to boot if using a body die with the collect die for the neck. I think the Redding/Forster dies for the seater and body die would be good. I want good accurate ammo. I just can't afford the time or expense for BR. I would like to get as close to it as possible. I will probably be more limited by my abilities than by equipment. Then again many swear by L.E. Wilson for dies.

 

[BigDMT]

Your LEE press won't work with Wilson dies. Have to have an Arbor press.

 

[Jet]

Forester dies have served me and my 260 very well.

 

[1911cwp]

No. I do not have an arbor press, however I could get a usable one from Harbor Freight for very little. I would still need the other for full length resizing anyway.

 

[Clod-NC]

Hi Sc,hi all

Sc,just to sort of recap on all that you've been told,I'll give you my opinion as to how you should play this game for now:I don't want to impose anything,mind you,it's just that I've been there already so if I can help you through,then why not,you'll be the judge:Lee classic cast is top,keep to this,Lee decapper OK,Lee collet in 260,fine,Forster seater or microseater if you can afford it,top,Redding body die in 260 great,or cheaper and just as good a Lee or Hornady 7/08 die or 308 (will be your body die,take decap rod out),and also from either Lee or Hornady or RCBS a 260 FL die that will allow you to neck down 7/08 or 308 brass(easy to do if you go slow a,d lube the die and case with care,leave the decap stem in for this one).As a future investment,think about a 2nd press(Lee challenger,or their little reloader one,only $45)...I don't think you want to get into arbor press and Wilson hand dies for the moment,I have nothing against them,but I suggest you get quite proficient with normal stuff before you upgrade to them.I hope it helps.If you need any more "advice",PM me,no prob.Have a nice week end,and good luck.

 

[1911cwp]

I appreciate all the help and input from everyone. More than one way to skin a cat. My limited experience on this forum and observation is that everyone wants to help one another avoid serious mistakes in safety and make their money go further. Soon it will be just the selection of a scope, mounts and getting powder, bullets and primers. I did take the plunge on Lapua brass. :

 

[hogan]

Redding FL Type S will also serve as a Body Die; just remove the bushing and decap rod assy.

The Forster benchrest die is the best value in seaters.



Gonna use only one lot of brass? Maybe you don't need a bushing die. Buy a Forster benchrest set and send the sizer die in for honing to your exact specs. But, if you use a variety of brass, the bushing die will allow you to maintain neck tension because neck thickness will vary. Gonna turn your necks to a uniform thickness? Maybe another reason not to need a bushing, if you have a honed spec sizer, but more likely the precise reason you want one.

Lots of ways to skin the cat. If you have a 7mm-08 or .308 die chamber seater already, might be fine just swapping a 6.5mm seater stem into that die chamber. Figure .002 or .003 of neck tension resistance to a boattail bullet will distort your neck? Probably not going to happen since you have in-line shoulder support already.

Hornady used to sell straight caliber seaters that weren't cartridge specific, just neck diameter bored with correct seater stem. Bullet always in-line with neck. Aren't most brushing or polishing inside necks anyway? Maybe using mica powder on a brush? I got a deal on a Forster 6.5x284 seater which I want to try with .260rem. If the case can't wobble due to shellholder and neck tension, how will the bullet seating create any runout?

If it makes you feel good to buy expensive tools like Redding S competition sets, that's cool because so much to shooting is mental. If you're confident in your gear, you'll shoot better.

 

[Barlow]

I'm sold on Forster dies, sizing and seating. Barlow

 

[GSPV]

I use Redding Type S bushing FL die and a Wilson inline seater that was cut with my 260 reamer.

I don't think I'd shoot if I had to mess with a neck sizer a body die and a bump die.

Also, I don't think that you need to worry about a crimp die. Why take the trouble of producing precision reloads then crimp the neck. Makes no sense to me.

 

[Elkbane]

SC,
Good move on the Lapua brass - early on, before Lapua and Norma started making brass in 260, quality brass was the biggest drawback for 260 Rem, IMO. I'm currently shooting Norma brass.

As one poster noted, probably the "best" no-hassle solution is to buy Forster F/L sizer die, use it once to take some basic measurements during the sizing process, then ship it back to them and have the neck honed for your situation. What you need to do is remove the expander stem and size a case, then measure the neck OD. Then re-insert the expander stem, size another case and measure the neck OD with the neck expanded. The difference between these two measurements is the amount of "extra" sizing that the die neck is imparting on the case necks. You need to minimize this to prevent overworking the brass. If you provide these measurements to Forster, they'll open up the neck of the die; i.e. "hone it", such that the expander ball just barely opens up the neck during expansion.

The design of the sizing button/stem on Forster dies is outstanding IMO. The sizing ball sits higher on the stem than on their competitors, resulting in lower deflection on extraction (force is a function of deflection amount x lever arm length). You'll like them.
Elkbane


P.S. When you get to testing bullets, take a look at Lapua 123gr. Scenars.......the shoot lights out in mine over H4831sc.

 

[1911cwp]

Buying some dies as we speak. I am sure I will select some that some would say good move, others not. Hey, I have to learn to waste money somehow

Everyones help is appreciated. Only thing I regret is getting into shooting so late in the game.