I'm thinking about a shooting level when shooting from the bench my question is can you see them easily without having to lift your head? Which is more user friendly the type that mounts on the receiver or one that mounts on the scope? Or since I shoot 100,200 & 300yds maybe I shouldn't bother?
Scope shooting levels
- Thread starter pahoghunter
- Start date
DeltaBravo
Gold $$ Contributor
I've got one on my 6BR for 100 yard VFS. It helps getting the setup level, but I don't pay a lot of attention to it during a target; I usually just make sure everything's copacetic between targets. It's one of those that is slightly offset from the center line; it's easy to use and wasn't a lot of money. Don't recall whose it is, tho.
Dennis
Dennis
CatShooter
pahoghunter said:
How easy to see, depends on which one you get.
These can be seen when you are looking through the scope.
How much space do I need between the scope and the base to use the pictured level?
itchyTF
Gold $$ Contributor
My son has one like the one Cat shows but that level doesn't agree with this tool - http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/sight-scope-installation-tools/scope-reticle-levelers/exd-engineering-vertical-reticle-instrument-prod6097.aspx
The level on the tool is supposed to tell you when both barrel & scope are vertically in line. So, if you have a level on the scope, for example, you can adjust it so they both agree.
I use a Hollands scope level.
http://www.hollandguns.com/FLYER-Jan2010-B1.jpg
The level on the tool is supposed to tell you when both barrel & scope are vertically in line. So, if you have a level on the scope, for example, you can adjust it so they both agree.
I use a Hollands scope level.
http://www.hollandguns.com/FLYER-Jan2010-B1.jpg
CatShooter
pahoghunter said:
0.260" or more will give you clearance.
CatShooter
itchyTF said:
Levels on the scope mean little and an attachmennt that hangs off the scope objective does little.
If you are concerned about cant, then you MUST have a level on the rifle when you are shooting.
I have all the levels discussed in this thread, and have gone through all the macinations to get my long range rifles set up.
Putting a level on the scope will tell you litle, and not if the scope is level to the rifle, and to the stock, and to the system. If the scope is canted, the level will always bring you to the same about of cant.
You need a level on the gun - then you set the gun in sand bags so it is level, then then set the scope while looking at a plumb line.. That way, everything is level, and stays that way.
I use the U S optics one that folds in . it has a screw off protective cover . I'm not sure the folding option is worth the extra money , especially for a range rifle . when folded in it doesn't stick out past the nut on the scope ring . these are hunting rifles and I thought folding it in could save it from getting broke . yes , I can see it from my shooting position . I think these could be a little thinner , under the scope , than the one cat shooter has . I could measure that if you wanted .
folded in , cover on .
folded out , cover off .
folded in , cover on .
folded out , cover off .
It's not so simple CatShooter.
For one, a level gun is relative.
That is, my T2000 was set up level at 7deg of cant, one of your guns could be bedded with a degree or two of cant w/resp to various reference points.
Doesn't matter how the gun is rotated provided it recoils right & you get back to it with every next shot.
You shouldn't rely on turret tops, cross hair level, bases, action flats, or stock flats -while every bit of it is separate from scope elevation adjustment, or worse, it results in bad handling.
Where the ScopLevel is set plumb to a mounted scope elevation(tested via POI through the range), you can move the scope from gun to gun and it will always be right. You just get another gun in the bags right, set the scope with calibrated ScopLevel on rings so it indicates level, torque it down, reset your zero.
With this you can then dial the scope up 30moa, and no matter how hosed up 3 or 4 other levels(if mounted) might read, the gun will shoot straight up 30moa(well, if your scope is true MOA)(few are).
The more potentials between elevation adjustment and the level measuring, the greater the disconnection to what I'm talking about.
Some folks level their rest, or barrel, or action, or bases, or rings, or turrets. There is the Level-Level-Level system out there. But all are further from level than provided off the tube and calibrated to actual elevation adjustment -with the gun in any position that handles best.
As a plus, your shooting eye is centered behind a ScopLevel while in shooting position. No viewing from off angles with an off eye.
For those who need a plumb cross hair as well as elevation adjustment(wind hold-offs), all you can do is test to find out if you're lucky enough with that. If unlucky, I don't see how it could be fixed. One or the other then.
For one, a level gun is relative.
That is, my T2000 was set up level at 7deg of cant, one of your guns could be bedded with a degree or two of cant w/resp to various reference points.
Doesn't matter how the gun is rotated provided it recoils right & you get back to it with every next shot.
You shouldn't rely on turret tops, cross hair level, bases, action flats, or stock flats -while every bit of it is separate from scope elevation adjustment, or worse, it results in bad handling.
Where the ScopLevel is set plumb to a mounted scope elevation(tested via POI through the range), you can move the scope from gun to gun and it will always be right. You just get another gun in the bags right, set the scope with calibrated ScopLevel on rings so it indicates level, torque it down, reset your zero.
With this you can then dial the scope up 30moa, and no matter how hosed up 3 or 4 other levels(if mounted) might read, the gun will shoot straight up 30moa(well, if your scope is true MOA)(few are).
The more potentials between elevation adjustment and the level measuring, the greater the disconnection to what I'm talking about.
Some folks level their rest, or barrel, or action, or bases, or rings, or turrets. There is the Level-Level-Level system out there. But all are further from level than provided off the tube and calibrated to actual elevation adjustment -with the gun in any position that handles best.
As a plus, your shooting eye is centered behind a ScopLevel while in shooting position. No viewing from off angles with an off eye.
For those who need a plumb cross hair as well as elevation adjustment(wind hold-offs), all you can do is test to find out if you're lucky enough with that. If unlucky, I don't see how it could be fixed. One or the other then.
CatShooter
mikecr said:
I don't have those problems. When I shoot a group and the dial in all the up available (betwen 40 and 140 moa), and shoot second group - the second group is always directly over (by a plumb line) the first group.
You must do doing something wrong. It is not brain surgery.
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