Scope pet peeve

[Larry Koch]

When you see a scope for sale and it has ring marks. You can buy a torque wrench and never have that happen again.

 

[BoydAllen]

IMHO torque is not the issue, but rather proper mounting with regard to alignment and not deburring and chamfering edges and corners. I agree that there is a lot of sloppy scope mounting out there. For most the easiest way around this is the Burris Signature rings. I have a couple of rifles with them mounted and like them a lot. For others I lap and carefully remove any sharp corners and edges that would be in contact with the scope.

 

[Larry Koch]

I just think if you're going to spend good money on a scope, care should be taken in mounting.
Im not a scope manufactor but if you damage the outside, your damaging the inside. Plus the scope lens are not in perfect alignment. Which defeats the whole purpose.

 

[3Ackleys]

You buy a used car it's gonna have some chips in the paint. Buy a new one and it shouldn't.

 

[Larry Koch]

Buy one that aims around corners with the barrel aiming the other way.

 

[rr2030]

I don't see how you can mount a scope, clamp it properly, and not have witness marks. Marks, not gouges, dents, shavings , etc.

Is it such a big deal after all? It is a used scope.

 

[Larry Koch]

Hey its your scope you can use a monkey wrench and a hammer. But there is a better way. I've seen scopes go on and come off, several rifles with out a scope ring mark. The dent's and ring marks shows poor workmanship.

 

[rr2030]

Hey its your scope you can use a monkey wrench and a hammer. But there is a better way. I've seen scopes go on and come off, several rifles with out a scope ring mark. The dent's and ring marks shows poor workmanship.

BS, clamping force, metal to metal leaves witness marks, ever so slight.

 

[jelenko]

I'm thinking a 'mark' is significantly different thing than a dent.

 

[NateHaler]

Hey its your scope you can use a monkey wrench and a hammer. But there is a better way. I've seen scopes go on and come off, several rifles with out a scope ring mark. The dent's and ring marks shows poor workmanship.

It's the exception to be able to mount a scope and then remove it without ring marks -- unless the Burris Signature rings are in the equation. There are how many different scope mfgs? Twenty? And how many different ring mfgs? Twenty?

So we're supposed to believe that scope brand ABC mounted in ring brand XYZ will not have ring marks if the scope is mounted with the proper torque. Nope, not IMO. Manufacturing tolerances, different finishes, different metals (steel, aluminum, titanium), different clamping mechanisms will all probably result in marks of some kind on the scope tube. And the big question: so what?

As to the notion that a cosmetic scar in the scope tube finish means damage on the inside? Please. (If you believe this, then beware of paint scratches in hood of your car, because that must mean the engine will be damaged underneath...hmm, maybe that's really why some people spend multi-thousand dollars putting clear film on their vehicle!)

If you want a perfect scope finish, then buy a new one. And if you want to keep it that way, then don't use it, or mount it in Burris Signature rings.

Of much more importance is keeping the original box, etc. that the scope came in/with. That's a peeve worth discussing!

 

[davidjoe]

I had the same aversion to ring marks. These things do represent a lot of cash layout after all.

But over time I realized that the knobs also begin to show wear marks, especially along the edges. Then the indicator markings begin to rub off or darken over time.

Certain scopes like my PM II’s have rubber eye rings and grips that don’t seem quite as “permanent” as the rest of the scope.

I basically decided that I’d sure try to avoid them, but wouldn’t sweat marks if they appeared because the whole idea of a pristine tactical scope means the rifle isn’t seeing any truly practical or field use.

Agree that plastic inserts prevent marks, but that style of ring and its slender size just doesn’t work with a huge 49 ounce tactical scope that a life might depend on like a three screw steel Badger that weighs 1 pound a set.

Now, chips or dents in stocks, that really gets me.

 

[BoydAllen]

I lap all non Signature rings, all of them. I also detail out the cap and lower half corners and edges that would touch the scope, and carefully remove the lapping compound. I EXPECT to be able to take one of these jobs apart with no damage showing on the scope. If I were not so lazy, I would do as Speedy does, lapping them most of the way and then bedding. IMO there is nothing inevitable about ring marks.

 

[Sandstorm]

When I drop a chunk of change on a high end optic, I also drop a chunk a change on the
optic mount ( Ie: Rings , Base's, rails etc, ) It should be mounted as well as possible.
This mostly because the distances i shoot require some precision to begin with and I
don't want to compromise it with less than, or sub-par parts...
( Most here seem to feel the same way from what I read )

 

[odie]

I just think if you're going to spend good money on a scope, care should be taken in mounting.
Im not a scope manufactor but if you damage the outside, your damaging the inside. Plus the scope lens are not in perfect alignment. Which defeats the whole purpose.

Not necessarily.

 

[johara1]

I had the same aversion to ring marks. These things do represent a lot of cash layout after all.

But over time I realized that the knobs also begin to show wear marks, especially along the edges. Then the indicator markings begin to rub off or darken over time.

Certain scopes like my PM II’s have rubber eye rings and grips that don’t seem quite as “permanent” as the rest of the scope.

I basically decided that I’d sure try to avoid them, but wouldn’t sweat marks if they appeared because the whole idea of a pristine tactical scope means the rifle isn’t seeing any truly practical or field use.

Agree that plastic inserts prevent marks, but that style of ring and its slender size just doesn’t work with a huge 49 ounce tactical scope that a life might depend on like a three screw steel Badger that weighs 1 pound a set.

Now, chips or dents in stocks, that really gets me.

To me it is stupid to use a ring that heavy to hold a 4mm thick aluminum scope tube in.... The end results are what counts, not after you crush it. You can only torque to 15 to 20 inch lbs. ...... jim

 

[wkdickinson]

I have become a true believer in buying high-quality rails, bedding them, using very well made rings (such as Warne) and a torque wrench - no ring marks.

 

[johara1]

I have become a true believer in buying high-quality rails, bedding them, using very well made rings (such as Warne) and a torque wrench - no ring marks.

Yes.... A lapping bar, bedding and a torque wrench go a long way in accuracy and no marks. Crushing the scope tube is the last thing you need...... jim

 

[wedgy]

The worst gouges I've seen on a scope were from a set of steel Badger rings on a steel Badger rail. Some how both rings were slightly leaning forward and put nasty gouges in the scope tube, visible when the owner took it out of the rings. I always put a lapping bar in to check alignment before I set the scope in, then lap, bed, etc. as needed.

 

[davidjoe]

To me it is stupid to use a ring that heavy to hold a 4mm thick aluminum scope tube in.... The end results are what counts, not after you crush it. You can only torque to 15 to 20 inch lbs. ...... jim

The relative thinness of the tube does not mean the scope is light. I have one with a 40mm tube that probably pushes 4 pounds. I do use very strong rings with heavy scopes that come in near 50 ounces. That’s more weight than many actions on the market.

In choosing to use the most rigid rings I can find if a weight limit is not at issue, I just liken this question to attaching an action, to an action, with the rings being the only thing between them. Then putting one of them under recoil.

Would I use $200 steel rings on a 12 ounce scope, no. Neither are they very helpful with small cartridges off a bench.

But 3 screw rings spread the clamping force out over more of the pic rail, many of which are milled in on my actions. The ones that aren’t milled in use Nightforce steel pics because it has the widest base in contact with the receiver on the market, and of course a recoil lug. I bed them. Three screw rings also spread the pressure of the contact patch out over more of the tube, which should tend to mitigate against marks being formed.

Since I’m only dealing with the rifles for myself and my purposes, there’s not been much reason to go light weight.

 

[Ackman]

It's real simple. Burris Signature rings will do away with those problems.