Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.
Apologies if this is has already been asked, I shoot silhouettes from 75 to 200 yards with a 22 LR my scope is a golden eagle I usually have it set around 50 to 60 power. Should I have it much lower at the longer distances any advice much appreciated
Apologies if this is has already been asked, I shoot silhouettes from 75 to 200 yards with a 22 LR my scope is a golden eagle I usually have it set around 50 to 60 power. Should I have it much lower at the longer distances any advice much appreciated
In a game where flags are used, the field of view gets greatly reduced with magnification. To me...magnification is great but seeing the flags is paramount. I think about 45ish power is ideal, give or take. Lots of matches have been won with the old weaver and leupold 36's. I don't think even those were around yet when McMillan shot his .009 group at 100. Great glass is well and good but it's simply down the list of most important things to shoot small. Flags are at the top, though.
Are Silhouettes match is Off the Bench and a bipod agreed the field of view is lower with the higher magnification and harder to see the flags pretty much have to come out of the scope or open both eyes for me anyway. Sounds like if you can see every detail of the animal or just a small part of it as long as you read the wind and hold it steady. I was worried it was changing my point of impact or something weird
This is the real important part. If you are off hand or on a bench.
I think maybe 24x to mid thirties max for your purposes on a bench. I do my load development at 200 yards with a sightron fixed 36 and it is hard on my eyes while I try and look at the windflags (not through the scope) and then look through scope and stay on target waiting for the right wind conditions. Not sure how small your targets are, but my 36x has a 1/8 moa dot and I use a 1" circle sticker at 200 yards.
But if I were setting up a rifle for what you are doing, I would check out one of those Arken light hunter scopes. Really nice glass for the price, Nicer than my Sightron S2 36x. Also has the magnification range that should do you very well out to 200. It's also only 23.7 ounces. I have used this one and I like it alot. It's waiting to go on my 6.5x47L build once I get it back from pierce engineering.
The EP-L (EP Light) is our Light Weight Hunter version of the EP (Extreme Precision) series. It is built on a streamline 30mm main tube to reduce overall weight with our toolless, easy to operate capped windage turret that lets you set and forget.
This is the real important part. If you are off hand or on a bench.
I think maybe 24x to mid thirties max for your purposes on a bench. I do my load development at 200 yards with a sightron fixed 36 and it is hard on my eyes while I try and look at the windflags (not through the scope) and then look through scope and stay on target waiting for the right wind conditions. Not sure how small your targets are, but my 36x has a 1/8 moa dot and I use a 1" circle sticker at 200 yards.
But if I were setting up a rifle for what you are doing, I would check out one of those Arken light hunter scopes. Really nice glass for the price, Nicer than my Sightron S2 36x. Also has the magnification range that should do you very well out to 200. It's also only 23.7 ounces. I have used this one and I like it alot. It's waiting to go on my 6.5x47L build once I get it back from pierce engineering.
The EP-L (EP Light) is our Light Weight Hunter version of the EP (Extreme Precision) series. It is built on a streamline 30mm main tube to reduce overall weight with our toolless, easy to operate capped windage turret that lets you set and forget.
That includes but does not mean only magnification. Sharpness, clarity, brightness, the right reticle, parallax adjustment all matter.
For 25 yard to 200 meter Silhouette, I use 24 or 25X. This is standing, no supprt of any kind. Higher magnification allows me to pick a smaller point on the target. Aim small, miss small.
Thanks for all the help. I've found that shooting at the highest power like most people have posted works best for me and lowering down magnification for mirage when needed. I think NRL and PRS which is timed you need the lower magnification for Target acquisition but for us shooting the silhouettes time is never a issue.
This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.