Scope level based off the body or the reticle

[DLT]

I found this video interesting. I posted some time ago about my reticle being canted a small amount and which should I use, level off the reticle with a plumb line or scope body but most importantly to do a tall target test to know for sure. Seems like to me if your reticle is off but you dial for elevation and hold for wind you need to level off the scope body

 

[SKWERLZ]

I always level off of the dial elevation travel line.

 

[Krogen]

I'm gonna go out on a limb and probably upset a few folks. I want the elevation movement of my reticle to move on a plumb line when my scope-mounted bubble shows level. Then I know that elevation movements are parallel with the force of gravity. I don't much care how square the scope or crosshairs are to the gun.

Taken to an extreme, suppose I have a reticle so far off that it looks like an X. If the intersection moves directly up and down parallel to gravity when my bubble level shows good, Iit would be ok. Despite it looking pretty goofy, at least I know the elevation and windage adjustments are truly independent of each other. I don't want an elevation adjustment to carry some windage movement because my reticle movement isn't plumb. If the scope itself is canted on the rifle, that's ok too provided reticle movement is assured to be plumb.

With that said, a reticle that looks off-square bugs me. I find that a set of scope wedges the make the underside of the turret parallel to the rail are sufficient. Theoretically perfect vs. "good enough."

 

[Gman]

I found this video interesting. I posted some time ago about my reticle being canted a small amount and which should I use, level off the reticle with a plumb line or scope body but most importantly to do a tall target test to know for sure. Seems like to me if your reticle is off but you dial for elevation and hold for wind you need to level off the scope body

The scope in this particular video with the canted reticle was a Leupold Mark 4. Who would have guessed?

 

[DLT]

The scope in this particular video with the canted reticle was a Leupold Mark 4. Who would have guessed?

I bought a tract one time and one time only. It was rough how canted it was but they took care of it

 

[Bill Norris]

I always level off of the dial elevation travel line.

Aligning the vertical crosshair with a plumb line @ 100 yds. has proven to be the best method for removing cant for me. The tall target test will then confirm exactly whether the scope needs further adjusting.

 

[SKWERLZ]

Aligning the vertical crosshair with a plumb line @ 100 yds. has proven to be the best method for removing cant for me. The tall target test will then confirm exactly whether the scope needs further adjusting.

I dial a lot so I want the vertical path the dialing creates to be my vertical reference.
It’s really not usually a huge issue but at ELR distances it’s definitely an issue.

I’ve always wondered if some day the reticle is canted perfectly could you be so lucky it offsets spin drift?

 

[Kittitas George]

This is how I level a scope, it is not complicated, and doesn't take too much time. I use a piece of 1/4" key stock I've super glued a 'line level' (used on a string or line) then attach to the rifle (magnet) on a scope base or the 'rails' the bolt travels. The gun must be level perpendicular to the barrel. My rifle is held ridged in some type of gun vise. The scope should be held loosely in the rings, the eye relief set. Now you can use another level on the vertical adjustment cap or plumb line. Tighten the screws in a rotational pattern just a little, watching the level bubbles or plumb line. Glue the line level to the key stock near one end, the other end can now go under the ring to the ring base. Magnets about the size of a nickel are available at most hardware stores and the key stock. Today I'll install a Bausch & Lomb 2.5 to 8 on a pre-war Mod-70, "the rifleman's rifle".