Scope adjustment in cold weather

[Gabe22BR]

It’ll get there, w/o touching a knob…

 

[xswanted]

Humm … I just use a range finder & hold on my reticle.. I can get up to 800yds w/o even touching a knob….. on my varmint scopes.. no mater the temperature…

That works for a lot people.


Going off what you have on your sheet though wouldn’t be caught dead using a SFP reticle in a hunting or target situation for holding over.

Way too easy to forget to have your power set where you have your cheat sheet calibrated to.


For me, especially with bedded coyotes I’ve snuck on, dialing up is the surest way to up the chances of a solid hit.

I’ve used hold overs a lot and while they certainly have their place in this game, it always seems that I was still either holding over or under the coyote based on the distance.


If a bedded coyote was laying at 468 yards, most guys don’t have a line for that. But, you can click it to within a 1/4 MOA which is close enough for me.

Then the wind is the only concern at that point.

 

[xswanted]

What's interesting in this to me is that I have sent 3 high end scopes, 3 different makes, for the exact reason you report. This is in mostly 70 to 80 degree weather. They would click up fine 100 percent. They would almost never come back down to zero. One was sent back because the problem was not corrected. It came back and I sold it giving the buyer the history. Buyer said it worked for him but he got rid of it after a couple matches and would not give me any further information as to why.

I believe this to be because of the way scopes adjust.


When adding elevation, the internal mechanism is using force from a bolt or rod pushing the erector tube down, thus gaining elevation.

However when you click “down” to get back to zero you (the scope) are relying on the erector spring to lift the tube back up.

I firmly believe many springs are simply not built strong enough, built too strong, or won’t function correctly in cold weather.

Scopes that use multiple erector springs seems to be more accurate in warmer weather for sure.

I also believe that’s why the “tap” I spoke of would bring the scope back to zero in the cold. And it was consistent in doing so. It gives just enough of a jolt to the spring to pop it back to where it should be.

I think exercising the turrets (adjusting all the way down and back up over and over) is a really good idea to do before you put the optic in rings just so things are able to get loose without any outside pressure on the main tube.

 

[Gabe22BR]

That works for a lot people.


Going off what you have on your sheet though wouldn’t be caught dead using a SFP reticle in a hunting or target situation for holding over.

Way too easy to forget to have your power set where you have your cheat sheet calibrated to.


For me, especially with bedded coyotes I’ve snuck on, dialing up is the surest way to up the chances of a solid hit.

I’ve used hold overs a lot and while they certainly have their place in this game, it always seems that I was still either holding over or under the coyote based one distance.


If a bedded coyote was laying at 468 yards, most guys don’t have a line for that. But, you can click it to within a 1/4 MOA which is close enough for me.

Then the wind is the only concern at that point.

Use SFP to find distance on target.. reticle dot stays the same through magnification, so by adjusting the focus, you can see the distance to the target, w/o your light poles blocking his eye balls..

Power setting has nothing to do w/ it..

For coyotes/ Deer.. thermals are used..

I don’t click- you loose Zero from 50yds to 457yds..

 

[xswanted]

Use SFP to find distance on target.. reticle dot stays the same through magnification, so by adjusting the focus, you can see the distance to the target, w/o your light poles blocking his eye balls..

Power setting has nothing to do w/ it..

For coyotes/ Deer.. thermals are used..

I don’t click- you loose Zero from 50yds to 457yds..

Elaborate on this please.

A second focal plane scopes subtensions change as you run your power up and down.

I’m missing what you’re laying down here.

 

[Gabe22BR]

I also believe that’s why the “tap” I spoke of would bring the scope back to zero in the cold. And it was consistent in doing so. It gives just enough of a jolt to the spring to pop it back to where it should be.

I seen a guy at BR match “tap” his NF comp scope right before he shot w/ a 2lb mallet…
He finally got DQ’d after 5X for shooting 5-8 targets down..

You wouldn’t have been this guy ??

 

[Gabe22BR]

Elaborate on this please.

A second focal plane scopes subtensions change as you run your power up and down.

I’m missing what you’re laying down here.

Yes , you are

 

[xswanted]

Yes , you are

Well I guess your the expert on the subject.


Your wind sheet would need to be set at a certain power to make your holdovers line up.

Otherwise you have a scope that’s a FFP.

 

[Gabe22BR]

so you don’t know how to use a SFP scope it looks like..



This can be taken into a phone call or pm, and not cluster this thread up…

 

[xswanted]

so you don’t know how to use a SFP scope it looks like..



This can be taken into a phone call or pm, and not cluster this thread up…

No thanks.


I’d prefer you to explain it here.

 

[xswanted]

so you don’t know how to use a SFP scope it looks like..



This can be taken into a phone call or pm, and not cluster this thread up…

Use SFP to find distance on target.. reticle dot stays the same through magnification, so by adjusting the focus, you can see the distance to the target, w/o your light poles blocking his eye balls..

Power setting has nothing to do w/ it..

For coyotes/ Deer.. thermals are used..

I don’t click- you loose Zero from 50yds to 457yds..

I’ll try figure this out……maybe I’m not drunk enough or don’t have the right Valdata scope or something.

 

[Gabe22BR]

Alright-
On my scope-1/8 moa clicks-
It’s got 2 powers that are set to true MOA at distance-18x = 1/4” MOA dot & 36X (max) = 1/8” dot
2 zero stops

using the 18x & 36x to range a 8” groundhog at 100yd standing up, or crawling to eat from the ditch bank, or under a blown over tree stump.. or a crow digging a corn seed…

I measure by getting him into focus( @ any range) then looking at the distance on the focus ring I kinda know how far he is, ( gets ya real close), on my focus ring and it is marked off in every 50yd increments 25yds out to 800yds, then infinity…this is a Valdada scope, it has a quick sharp focus box, I mean real sharp, you ever looked through one you’ll see what I mean, unlike my NF comp scopes or my March scopes (close to eyebox)

Depending on which power X it’s at (9X to scan-18xor max 36X), I can count the hash marks (do the math ) to see ( confirm) how far he actually is..
if he only covers 8 marks (18X) he’ll be at 100yds- if he covers 16 marks(36X) he’ll be 100yds..
Then my SII- second zero stop is set to 500yds (where my bullet bc takes a noticeable dive) only have this stop set for my reference…
My crosshairs doesn’t change in size as the power is increased or decreased - stays the same… if I have it on his 3” head I can get even more precise (if damn thing stays still long enough)..my crosshairs doesn’t cover up his head / ears, eyeballs..

I’ve set and shot at known distances & wind conditions to determine how my scope works, (also by not moving the power selector) setting up targets stacked every 100yds to (50yds to 400yds) to get true bullet bc, velocity changes, in different temperatures & humidity… over a chronograph, and over wind flags & use of an anemometer of coarse.. ( gotta learn the flags, to apply it to the swaying leaves, trees, etc) ya don’t have wind flags out in the field, waiting on something to come to shoot eating your crop.

That’s how I marked my chart above for my rifle & cartridge.. sometimes I don’t have a range finder, it’s in use by one of boys.

Bigger varmints, dogs, & deer, there’s a huge playing field when they turn sideways…it’s like hitting broadside of a barn..

This is how I do it, may not be right, I haven’t missed one yet, blew a few eyeballs out anyways I was aiming at, doing it like this…

I only use 1 rifle, 1 scope, 1 load, most daily on something, crows, beavers, squirrels , armadillos, possums, etc…very familiar with my set up..

As for my thermal, I just push a button & pull the trigger- it ranges, moves crosshairs, pull the trigger..all in 2sec worth.. kinda like Cheat’n really..

I didn’t really think I’d like the clutter reticle, till I figured out the wind holds,and drops, so far I’ve only shot in 21mph cross wind- it’s the #10 mark either left or rt of the dot..800yds on the flat & level is the very 2nd from bottom mark on hair line…

Guess, I don’t know how to explain it , w/ out showing hands on.

 

[xswanted]

Alright-
On my scope-1/8 moa clicks-
It’s got 2 powers that are set to true MOA at distance-18x = 1/4” MOA dot & 36X (max) = 1/8” dot
2 zero stops

using the 18x & 36x to range a 8” groundhog at 100yd standing up, or crawling to eat from the ditch bank, or under a blown over tree stump.. or a crow digging a corn seed…

I measure by getting him into focus( @ any range) then looking at the distance on the focus ring I kinda know how far he is, ( gets ya real close), on my focus ring and it is marked off in every 50yd increments 25yds out to 800yds, then infinity…this is a Valdada scope, it has a quick sharp focus box, I mean real sharp, you ever looked through one you’ll see what I mean, unlike my NF comp scopes or my March scopes (close to eyebox)

Depending on which power X it’s at (9X to scan-18xor max 36X), I can count the hash marks (do the math ) to see ( confirm) how far he actually is..
if he only covers 8 marks (18X) he’ll be at 100yds- if he covers 16 marks(36X) he’ll be 100yds..
Then my SII- second zero stop is set to 500yds (where my bullet bc takes a noticeable dive) only have this stop set for my reference…
My crosshairs doesn’t change in size as the power is increased or decreased - stays the same… if I have it on his 3” head I can get even more precise (if damn thing stays still long enough)..my crosshairs doesn’t cover up his head / ears, eyeballs..

I’ve set and shot at known distances & wind conditions to determine how my scope works, (also by not moving the power selector) setting up targets stacked every 100yds to (50yds to 400yds) to get true bullet bc, velocity changes, in different temperatures & humidity… over a chronograph, and over wind flags & use of an anemometer of coarse.. ( gotta learn the flags, to apply it to the swaying leaves, trees, etc) ya don’t have wind flags out in the field, waiting on something to come to shoot eating your crop.

That’s how I marked my chart above for my rifle & cartridge.. sometimes I don’t have a range finder, it’s in use by one of boys.

Bigger varmints, dogs, & deer, there’s a huge playing field when they turn sideways…it’s like hitting broadside of a barn..

This is how I do it, may not be right, I haven’t missed one yet, blew a few eyeballs out anyways I was aiming at, doing it like this…

I only use 1 rifle, 1 scope, 1 load, most daily on something, crows, beavers, squirrels , armadillos, possums, etc…very familiar with my set up..

As for my thermal, I just push a button & pull the trigger- it ranges, moves crosshairs, pull the trigger..all in 2sec worth.. kinda like Cheat’n really..

I didn’t really think I’d like the clutter reticle, till I figured out the wind holds,and drops, so far I’ve only shot in 21mph cross wind- it’s the #10 mark either left or rt of the dot..800yds on the flat & level is the very 2nd from bottom mark on hair line…

Guess, I don’t know how to explain it , w/ out showing hands on.

There ya go!

In your first post you said “rangefinder”

And your yardage sheet is marked SFP along with certain lines marked with specific yardages.

A person that doesn’t understand the game of using a reticle to range an animal would be confused as to what information you put forth.

Leupold used a similar system on their varmint hunter and Boone and Crocket reticle scopes 30 years ago which many people, including myself, used as a reference for range.

After I asked to clarify you then stated power had no effect on it, further complicating the discussion, you state here that in fact the power does have an effect on what you are doing, which of course it has to in order for this system to work.

For anyone else that was reading this exchange:

In SFP scopes the reticle doesn’t appear to change size to the shooter, but it does change size relative to the target, thus changing the scope’s subtensions throughout the power range of the scope.

The shooters zero remains the same but the lines under or above the center crosshair end up being different yardages dictated by the power of the scope.

If I shoot a SFP scope at 20x, zeroed at 200 yards and my lines under my center crosshair are 300, 350 and 450, when I turn my power to 36x the lines are now going to represent different yardages. Maybe something like 225, 275 and 350.

If I turn the power to 10x they get farther apart, now my 450 line at 20x might be 600 yards.

A FFP scope, the subtensions stay the same throughout the power range of the scope as the reticle stays the same size relative to the target, but of course it gets bigger and smaller to the shooter.

To Gabe:
That information of course you know and is meant for anyone else reading the thread that doesn’t understand how a SFP scopes functions.

The “DOPE chart” you posted a picture of would still need to be used at a specific power in order for your yardages to match up to what you have there which is why i questioned it in the first place.

For me, as I stated earlier, I wouldn’t use this system. I would much rather use the center crosshair and dial the scope up, which from my original post regarding the test I conducted in the cold, I know works.

When clicking it back to zero, a light tap with a shell case or my ring finger is all it takes to ensure the scope has returned, no hammers. In most cases simply warming it back up after it has acclimated to the cold takes care of the issue as well. These days, fortunately for guys that like to click, scopes have gotten better in extreme cold and I’m lucky to have found one that works the way it should in most temps.

However in extreme cold, like below -10 degrees Fahrenheit, stuff doesn’t work very well. And when you venture into the -20s or colder it becomes more pronounced as to what functions and what doesn’t.

Thank you for writing an explanation on how you do this.

 

[Gabe22BR]

There ya go!

In your first post you said “rangefinder”

And your yardage sheet is marked SFP along with certain lines marked with specific yardages.
my scope stays on 18X just about all of the time
A person that doesn’t understand the game of using a reticle to range an animal would be confused as to what information you put forth. I was meant for you

Leupold used a similar system on their varmint hunter and Boone and Crocket reticle scopes 30 years ago which many people, including myself, used as a reference for range. was doing it way before the 1990’s with my 12X fixed power

After I asked to clarify you then stated power had no effect on it, further complicating the discussion, you state here that in fact the power does have an effect on what you are doing, which of course it has to in order for this system to work.Stays on 1 power most all the time.

For anyone else that was reading this exchange:

In SFP scopes the reticle doesn’t appear to change size to the shooter, but it does change size relative to the target, thus changing the scope’s subtensions throughout the power range of the scope.

The shooters zero remains the same but the lines under or above the center crosshair end up being different yardages dictated by the power of the scope.

If I shoot a SFP scope at 20x, zeroed at 200 yards and my lines under my center crosshair are 300, 350 and 450, when I turn my power to 36x the lines are now going to represent different yardages. Maybe something like 225, 275 and 350.

If I turn the power to 10x they get farther apart, now my 450 line at 20x might be 600 yards.

A FFP scope, the subtensions stay the same throughout the power range of the scope as the reticle stays the same size relative to the target, but of course it gets bigger and smaller to the shooter.

To Gabe:
That information of course you know and is meant for anyone else reading the thread that doesn’t understand how a SFP scopes functions.
Like I said, it was meant for YOU.
The “DOPE chart” you posted a picture of would still need to be used at a specific power in order for your yardages to match up to what you have there which is why i questioned it in the first place.a Quick zoom to focus , you got the distance by looking at the yardage the target is at…

For me, as I stated earlier, I wouldn’t use this system. I would much rather use the center crosshair and dial the scope up, which from my original post regarding the test I conducted in the cold, I know works.shame you loose zero everytime you turn a knob

When clicking it back to zero, a light tap with a shell case or my ring finger is all it takes to ensure the scope has returned, no hammers. In most cases simply warming it back up after it has acclimated to the cold takes care of the issue as well. These days, fortunately for guys that like to click, scopes have gotten better in extreme cold and I’m lucky to have found one that works the way it should in most temps.
buy quality optics , don’t have to knock them around to get to true zero… this should have shown up on a scope checker..
However in extreme cold, like below -10 degrees Fahrenheit, stuff doesn’t work very well. And when you venture into the -20s or colder it becomes more pronounced as to what functions and what doesn’t.

Thank you for writing an explanation on how you do this.your welcome, shame you had to clutter 1 page for something you already thought knew… like I said could have been in phone call or pm…

My way - fixed power- range by bringing tart into focus- yardage marked on turret.. easy, simple.. no dialing…