SB Heavy 10 - First Run Prep

[GSPV]

Guys,

Soon now, I’ll have power to my SB Heavy 10 and I’ll be ready to run it for the first time. Well, after I put the new belt on it.

Supposing that I’ve got it in place, power to the motor, at least initially square/level, and the belt in place...

What all do I need to do before running it? To do it *right*.

Included in this, what are the correct oils to get on order? In very small quantity, if possible.

Thanks, guys! I appreciate all the help very much. I also appreciate you guys’ willingness to do this on the forum so that we have a resource for the next guy.

 

[GenePoole]

If you ask 5 SB owners what oils to use, you'll get 6 different answers.

You're probably alright buying the 4-bottle set from ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/321146352222

Personally, I use ISO22 for spindle and ISO32 for everything else and chainsaw-bar oil for the ways.

 

[sdean]

What Gene said is the answer. What was wrong with the old belt on it? Was it supposed to be running before you got it? Turn it by hand a few times, not too hard or much noise, let her rip. That old lathe knows more than you. Just need to feed it.

 

[hoz53]

Guys,

Soon now, I’ll have power to my SB Heavy 10 and I’ll be ready to run it for the first time. Well, after I put the new belt on it.

Supposing that I’ve got it in place, power to the motor, at least initially square/level, and the belt in place...

What all do I need to do before running it? To do it *right*.

Included in this, what are the correct oils to get on order? In very small quantity, if possible.

Thanks, guys! I appreciate all the help very much. I also appreciate you guys’ willingness to do this on the forum so that we have a resource for the next guy.

My SB had a mixture of metal shavings/lube packed into every gear so I’d check every gear and make sure they are clean and properly lubed. This includes in the QC gearbox. Also I’d put new V belts from motor pulley to bottom cone.

 

[GSPV]

What Gene said is the answer. What was wrong with the old belt on it? Was it supposed to be running before you got it? Turn it by hand a few times, not too hard or much noise, let her rip. That old lathe knows more than you. Just need to feed it.

The gentleman that I bought it from had to remove the belt to move it to his home from his work where it formerly resided. It stayed there for five years. I turned the spindle and motor by hand several times when I bought it. It has oil in the cups. It has a replacement belt with it and the tool that tapers the belt end and clamps it while the ends are connected.

My Gray Lady will be run soon. But, I’ll take care to do it right.

 

[B Nettesheim]

Way oil is for ways and slides chaisaw bar oil is for chainaws.

 

[GSPV]

If you ask 5 SB owners what oils to use, you'll get 6 different answers.

You're probably alright buying the 4-bottle set from ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/321146352222

Personally, I use ISO22 for spindle and ISO32 for everything else and chainsaw-bar oil for the ways.

Thank you! I have this ordered.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Thank you! I have this ordered.

I use the exact oils they have in that set. I ordered the set then got the same oils

 

[GSPV]

Thank you, Dusty. I appreciate it. I really value your input.

 

[GenePoole]

You'll probably want to flush your spindle bearing reservoirs. If you get any rust colored oil out, then you may have a rusted spring on the felt wick. You should probably replace those anyway, but it requires you pull the spindle. Not a huge deal--especially since you don't have a belt in the way right now.

I flushed mine like 20 times with kerosene, then fresh oil, but couldn't get the rusty color to go away. Turns out the the spring had rusted up to the point of breaking. I don't know how oil was getting to the bearings, but some must have since they looked fine. With the headstock apart, I was able to power flush the reservoir with my coolant pump. Fresh wicks, fresh oil and new shims and it runs like a Swiss watch.

 

[GSPV]

Thank you, Gene. I appreciate it!

 

[tobnpr]

These "total loss" lathes were designed to be torn down, and felts replaced every 7-10 years (as recommended by SB). Over time (as in, sitting for 5 years) the felts will often become rock-hard and brittle, and will no longer be capable of wicking oil.

If you are not planning a disassembly before putting it back into service, suggest you do a good visual inspection of the felts pulling the apron off the carriage is simple- do this, check the reservoir at the bottom of the apron for chips/crud, clean it out and inspect the felts. Check the ends of the felts visible at the gearbox to be sure they're wet with oil. At minimum, replace the wiper felts on the saddle (again, EBay) and do them every few months if the lathe sees regular use. These get embedded with chips and they'll act like an abrasive pad on your ways over time if left alone.

ETA: If the spindle is out, replace the wicks- foolish not to as they require the spindle be out to do it and this is the opportunity. Odds are, they've probably worn and hardened anyway and these are critical to the very thin lubricating film on the spindle. Purchase the rebuild manual off eBay (even if not rebuilding) as it will be invaluable in the future.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Can you soak all the reservoirs with kerosene then drain to get the felts back in shape? Thats what i did to one years ago and it seemed to work well

 

[Someoldguy]

I purchased a kit off ebay and replaced all the felts in mine before I ever used it. It took a bit of time, but if you're up to threading, chambering and installing barrels I doubt you'll have any trouble with the tasks. It also provides an opportunity to become quite famaliar with your lathe. I purchased a manual that guided me through the process at the same time. It wasn't difficult to follow at all.

 

[hoz53]

Can you soak all the reservoirs with kerosene then drain to get the felts back in shape? Thats what i did to one years ago and it seemed to work well

I’m having trouble getting the headstock reservoir clean on mine. Mabie a kerosene soak would work. I wouldn’t reuse the felts when I had the spindle out.

 

[GSPV]

Thanks, Guys. I really appreciate all the input!

Sounds like I need to get under the hood a bit more than I originally thought. It’s getting to the point that that sounds like fun. I guess that that’s a good thing.

 

[tobnpr]

If you're not in a real hurry to make chips, a teardown makes sense- you'll know every bolt and gear, as well as condition/ level of wear in various areas. With the manual, its not difficult (time consuming, yes...). I wouldn't have attempted it, without it. Paint is optional, but the extra time spent even a quick paint job is worth it if possible and it made it more rewarding for me to restore it cosmetically as well as mechanically.

Practical Machinist, South Bend section is where you wanna be.