Savage ?

[Kracken McGraw]

I have a Savage 12 BVSS 308WIN. Question is on the front pillar in stock. The pillar is about an 1/8 to 5/16 to short to be even where action sets against laminated stock. I was assuming it would be better to washer this up to where action would be pulling against the pillar instead of stock, or was it made by Savage this way for a purpose?

 

[Zero333]

If it shoots then don't worry much about it.
I wouldn't stack a washer personally. Leave it alone or gass it a little in that area.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

If it shoots then don't worry much about it.
I wouldn't stack a washer personally. Leave it alone or gass it a little in that area.

It’s fairly new with low round count, was shooting decent but figured it needs more barrel break in. I was relieving the tang area some when I noticed the pillar situation. Thanks.

 

[6MMsteve]

If it shoots then don't worry much about it.
I wouldn't stack a washer personally. Leave it alone or gass it a little in that area.

^^^^^^

 

[Blackthorn]

On the bottom of the stock is the ferrule. How deep is it? I’m thinking maybe the pillar is not fully seated. They are tight fit then pressed into place. You could always tap the ferrule and see if it seats any deeper.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

On the bottom of the stock is the ferrule. How deep is it? I’m thinking maybe the pillar is not fully seated. They are tight fit then pressed into place. You could always tap the ferrule and see if it seats any deeper.

Okay thanks for that tip. It looked like it was up enough and in about the right place, the bolt has tightened up real snug. I will try tapping on it and see if that works, Thanks. Been layed up a little bit lately and may be a while before I get to try it.

 

[Blackthorn]

Understand the layed up bit. Was that way myself not to long ago.

The pillar and ferrule are one piece. You can also tap out the front pillar and scrape a bit of the wood off the recess where the ferrule sits out with a chisel until your satisfied it touches the receiver. If you're satisfied with factory pillars I'd epoxy it in place then.
You can see what the front pillar looks like in the pic. It is next to the one I replaced it with.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

Understand the layed up bit. Was that way myself not to long ago.

The pillar and ferrule are one piece. You can also tap out the front pillar and scrape a bit of the wood off the recess where the ferrule sits out with a chisel until your satisfied it touches the receiver. If you're satisfied with factory pillars I'd epoxy it in place then.
You can see what the front pillar looks like in the pic. It is next to the one I replaced it with.

That’s good to know that’s all one piece. I understand what you mean about the ferrule making contact with the wood, so I bet I can make the pillar contact the action one way or the other. This will be a big help.
Yep, the Doc thought I needed a Titanium ball joint in the left hip. Has been interesting to say the least.

 

[JFrank]

I have a Savage 12 BVSS 308WIN. Question is on the front pillar in stock. The pillar is about an 1/8 to 5/16 to short to be even where action sets against laminated stock. I was assuming it would be better to washer this up to where action would be pulling against the pillar instead of stock, or was it made by Savage this way for a purpose?

Bed the action and you should be good to go.
Nice rifle BTW

 

[Texas10]

The pillar is not doing its job unless it is in full contact with the action as well as tight in the stock. You should deepen the counterbore in the stock until you achieve that goal however, it's difficult to get it perfect without using some kind of milling machine where exact depth changes can be made.

I only had a drill press so what I did was to use a standard flat shaped wood boring bit to deepen the counterbore slightly more than necessary and then bed the pillar in place using epoxy bedding material (Devcon 10110). This way it's an exact fit and transfers load to the stock in a consistent manner. I coated the pillar with wax when bedding to enable removal if necessary, but that is not required, just a personal choice.

I also bedded the action into the stock first, leaving the pillar bedding for last.

Think of the stock as the interface between you and the barreled action that is trying to punch you into the next county every time you pull the trigger. Any sloppiness of fit between the two breeds inconsistency in barrel whip, vibration and shock absorption and that leads to poor accuracy and consistency. JMHO.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

The pillar is not doing its job unless it is in full contact with the action as well as tight in the stock. You should deepen the counterbore in the stock until you achieve that goal however, it's difficult to get it perfect without using some kind of milling machine where exact depth changes can be made.

I only had a drill press so what I did was to use a standard flat shaped wood boring bit to deepen the counterbore slightly more than necessary and then bed the pillar in place using epoxy bedding material (Devcon 10110). This way it's an exact fit and transfers load to the stock in a consistent manner. I coated the pillar with wax when bedding to enable removal if necessary, but that is not required, just a personal choice.

I also bedded the action into the stock first, leaving the pillar bedding for last.

Think of the stock as the interface between you and the barreled action that is trying to punch you into the next county every time you pull the trigger. Any sloppiness of fit between the two breeds inconsistency in barrel whip, vibration and shock absorption and that leads to poor accuracy and consistency. JMHO.

I Really appreciate everyone’s input on this. Texas10, I will try to work on that pillar. Spending $250 at my Gunsmith to get it bedded to his standards, would be money well spent I’m sure. Also, bolt lift is really heavy on this one and maybe I could talk him into putting a bolt lift kit in it. By the way, the stocks on the BVSS has a great feel to them, and are great to shoot off of bench or prone.

 

[Texas10]

I'd have to agree with regard to the BVSS stock. My first Savage was a 12 BVSS in 223. Still have it, and has been re-calibered four or five time now. Same action and stock, and shoots particularly well off a bi-pod.

Just now trying one of those front rest adapters made for the BVSS stock. Seems to be working well.

As for bolt lift, there are several aftermarket lift kits available that work well, or you can make your own from a 38 cal brass. Cut the head off at the web, put a ball bearing in the primer pocket that's small enough to fit all the way down in the pocket and protrude slighly, and install it under the assembly bolt and on top the cocking sleeve.