savage switch barrel....

[brian923]

was interested in making a rifle that i could switch just the barrel out and maybe even bolt, or just bolt head to change caliber. kinda like a bolt action AR. was wondering if it is easy to do or not. i have been reading a little, and see that some have rifles that use allen head bolts that allow quick barrel change, but they are big money. i am looking for something that can be done at home, or from the back of my truck. the only thing that is troubling me it the re sighting of the scope after barrel change out. is there a way to make this not as tedious? like using a quick disconnect scope base with two different scopes?,and leave the scope rings attached to the scope)or mounting a scope base to the barrel itself, and have it come off with the barrel?

my second question is that.... if i headspace my savage barrels with gauges, and then weld, or thread lock the barrel nut to the barrel itself... would i be able to remove one barrel, and re-tighten the other caliber barrel without need to use gauges, and still be safe?

thanks guys, all your input is really appreciated.Brian

 

[warthog97]

It looks like you've more or less answered your question about if you can switch barrels and/or bolt heads on the savage, yes you can. I'm sure you're aware that there a several manufacturers now who make prethreaded barrels, from Adams & Barnett to Shillen and PacNor, and several in between. I'm sure you've also seen that you can pick up a bare bolt head from midwayUSA for $25 or so, or a complete head from SSS for about $60 to $75, depending on size.
You asked about using weld or threadlock on the barrel nut, presumably to keep it from coming loose? If so, I've read several posts where folks stated that tapping the nut wrench with a rubber mallet provided all the tightening force they needed. Threadlock can get tricky, use the wrong version of Locktite and your in trouble. I don't recommend it, but will deffer to more experienced opinions on the matter.
I wouldn't ever recommend doing the barrel swap without the head space guage. Once you buy the guage, why not use it? I'm not sure how much of a rotation it'll take move the head space 7 thousands, but I know what happens when the head space is off by that much. I had an Arisaka that was 7 thou too long. It became a 6.5x55. It almost became scrap metal,for those of you wondering, on the advisement of my gunsmith, my spectators and I were all hiding behind thick oak trees as I pulled a lanyard tied to the trigger). I don't think you need that kind of excitement every time you swap barrels. Perhaps I'm being overly cautious?
How do you maintain zero? One option is the Khales Multi-Zero scope. You can set 5 different zeros,I'm not sure if the windages changes, might want to verify). Is it expensive? Yep, but try buying 5 different scopes at the same price and quality as one Khales. You can't!
I hope I helped some. -bnw

 

[treeman]

I think Brian was talking about glueing the nut to the barrell not to the action. I dont see that being a problem you'd just need a nut for both barrels. i think it would make swaping barrels in the feild easier because you wouldn't need a head space guage. it would basicly be like a conventional{rem} barrel.___treeman

 

[Travelor]

I and a friend are having switch barrel Savages built as we write this. Check out this site: http://www.lprgunsmith.com/lpr_switch_rifle.htm

George

 

[Ackman]

The Savage barrel nut makes headspacing easy, but it's not best for a true switchbarrel. First, the stock needs to be removed. The barrel nut wrench won't go under the scope, so that's gotta come off too. And unless you make a jig to hold things, you'll stil. want a barrel vise and an action wrench. The barrel nut simply means you can buy a chambered barrel and install/headspace it yourself. But on a "switchbarrel" rifle it's more of a hassle. The easiest/quickest way to do a switchbarrel is just to have a shouldered barrel like with any other gun. The hex muzzle pictured on another post looks like a real good idea.

 

[vlcakc]

I agree with Ackman. I have Savage, Remington and Wichita switch barrel rifles and much prefer not having to deal with the barrel nut and headspace gauges each time I swap barrels. I suggested some while back over on the Savageshooters.com website that I might chamber my next Savage barrel without the barrel nut and was flamed beyond belief. Those Savage folks get real uptight when someone suggests changing their favorite brand of rifle. Oh well, different strokes... Vic

 

[brian923]

that's why i thought that head spacing the new barrel, then welding the barrel nut when its head spaced. this would essentially make it a "shoulder" style barrel. as of the scope, if i use high scope mounts, i can take some meat off the wrench to make it fit under the scope. ij only need to break it free, then twist the barrel off.

i have now a one piece leupold scope base. is this a detachable scope base? if so, i could just get some new rings and a second scope? right? i dont know how to use this base, it came with the rifle, it has a twist on front piece and a screw on rear piece.

 

[BillPa]

Brain,
You can swap barrel without removing the scope and mounts, I do.
Get a rear entry action wrench and make a open ended spanner.

The only thing you need to be careful of...you don't crash the scope!

Basically what I do, pull the action out of the stock then clamp the barrel in a vise with padded jaws. The vise is only a "third hand", someplace to hold the thing while I'm working. I use the same setup in the shop or at the range.

They are not for removing the factory installed barrels. That job is best left to a clamp on wrench and full spanner. I don't use barrel blocks either way.

BTW...nothing wrong using a shouldered barrel instead of the nut.

Bill