Savage Model 12 Benchrest or Model 12 LRPV Left Port?

[sgreen3]

Just wondering if any of you guys could lend some help, ideas, experience as to which one of these I might like the best As I really cant decide on which one Id rather get. Im wanting one of them for shooting in the 200 & 300yrd local benchrest shoots. Although not as pricy as a custom bench gun they still are a little costly so I want to get the right one for my needs the first time. I'm looking at them in the 6mmBR chambering. Thanks for your help!

 

[MrMajestic]

Blondes, redheads or brunnettes you must decide...

 

[sgreen3]

That's the problem I like them all, just cant decide which would be the best fit

 

[JamesnTN]

If the bench rest model comes in a 6 BR 12 twist that be my choice. I have a 12 twist LRPV that shoots lights out. It really does boil down to which you prefer the best.

 

[Jet]

You might be better served buying a used complete custom rifle for what you will pay for the Savage. Spend a week or two watching the classifieds on this site as well as a couple others and you might find one.

If stuck on the savage and want to shoot BR look at the F Class or the BR model. The LRPV is an accurate rifle for the money but it isn't a BR rifle.

Whatever rifle you select make sure it is within any weight/stock limits for the places you shoot.

Good Shooting

Rich

 

[sgreen3]

That's what I was thinking but I have a bit of credit at my Local Shop so I figure what a better time to finally get one of these that Ive been drooling over for a while and finally get into the 6mmBR cartridge. Good point Ill look into those regulations on the weight. The rifle is going to be used for just bench rest shooting, so I guess the 12 benchrest would probably serve best. I really do like the right bolt left eject on the LRPV though. But seems that I would save a little money in the long run since the 12BR already comes with a benchrest style stock from the factory.

 

[sgreen3]

If the bench rest model comes in a 6 BR 12 twist that be my choice. I have a 12 twist LRPV that shoots lights out. It really does boil down to which you prefer the best.

No both these models come in a 1:8 twist rate. from everything I've read on this caliber it seems this is the twist to get?....

 

[noload]

Here is 1 of my 6br LPRV, I add 2 aluminum pieces front and rear, to compete in F Class. Then this gun could convert to is original configuration easily if desired.

 

[sgreen3]

Here is 1 of my 6br LPRV, I add 2 aluminum pieces front and rear, to compete in F Class. Then this gun could convert to is original configuration easily if desired.

That's a very good idea! Looks very nice.

 

[Deleted old_dood]

I have both but the LRPV is .223. I'd think that if you have a descent rest, the 12BR. If shooting off a bipod, the LRPV.

 

[Dave Berg]

I have them both plus an F-Class.

If your local rules are like most and permit the use of a front rest but don't permit add on "sleds" or bag riders or Accuracy Assets as Hart calls them on factory rifles you're much further ahead with the BR. It will ride the bags just like a custom right up to the point where you have to open the bolt. The LRPV isn't even close. Unfortunately the fore end on the BR is less than 3" wide which causes a couple other problems.

The Model 12 F Class looks like it would be even better with the flat bottom butt stock but unless the club permits changing the stock contour you'll quickly find that the flat is narrower in the front than the rear so it doesn't ride the rear bag well at all. Under recoil the buttstock isn't touching either of the ears on the bag, just kind'a wandering around.

Most of the clubs around here have either banned all of these in 6BR or have a special "Super Stock" class.

 

[sgreen3]

I have them both plus an F-Class.

If your local rules are like most and permit the use of a front rest but don't permit add on "sleds" or bag riders or Accuracy Assets as Hart calls them on factory rifles you're much further ahead with the BR. It will ride the bags just like a custom right up to the point where you have to open the bolt. The LRPV isn't even close. Unfortunately the fore end on the BR is less than 3" wide which causes a couple other problems.

The Model 12 F Class looks like it would be even better with the flat bottom butt stock but unless the club permits changing the stock contour you'll quickly find that the flat is narrower in the front than the rear so it doesn't ride the rear bag well at all. Under recoil the buttstock isn't touching either of the ears on the bag, just kind'a wandering around.

Most of the clubs around here have either banned all of these in 6BR or have a special "Super Stock" class.

Thanks for your insight... Could you elaborate a little more on what you said about "right up to the point you open the bolt". That's what Im needing something that would do fairly well in riding the bags and it seems the BR model is the way to go. I did check with my local club and they said that a front bench rest and rear bag are acceptable.

 

[sgreen3]

Well I took the plunge an finally had my Local shop order one of the 12BR's seems like everyone is pretty well in consensus as to this being the better choice for what I'm going to be doing with it. Now to my next question what type of scope bases and rings should I be using?

 

[Dave Berg]

Could you elaborate a little more on what you said about "right up to the point you open the bolt".

I have yet to see a Savage action where the bolt could be lifted with a flick of your trigger finger after firing. Then opened and the cartridge ejected with another flick. This works on well tuned custom actions and the rifle is nearly undisturbed in the bags. I've read about Savages that are "as slick as a BAT" but I've certainly never seen or used one. I've had a couple that were "timed and trued" by the Savage wizards but they didn't come close to a Borden or BAT. JMHO.

For scope bases I wouldn't consider anything but Ken Farrell's. They're not cheap but they're really good. His bases are considerably taller than most if you decide to go that route.

Now you'll probably want some gold box Lapua brass as the chamber neck diameter on mine are right at 0.272".

 

[waterfwlr]

Well I took the plunge an finally had my Local shop order one of the 12BR's seems like everyone is pretty well in consensus as to this being the better choice for what I'm going to be doing with it. Now to my next question what type of scope bases and rings should I be using?

Farrell base and Burris Signature Zee rings. That's the set up on both my savage actions.

 

[sgreen3]

Could you elaborate a little more on what you said about "right up to the point you open the bolt".

I have yet to see a Savage action where the bolt could be lifted with a flick of your trigger finger after firing. Then opened and the cartridge ejected with another flick. This works on well tuned custom actions and the rifle is nearly undisturbed in the bags. I've read about Savages that are "as slick as a BAT" but I've certainly never seen or used one. I've had a couple that were "timed and trued" by the Savage wizards but they didn't come close to a Borden or BAT. JMHO.

For scope bases I wouldn't consider anything but Ken Farrell's. They're not cheap but they're really good. His bases are considerably taller than most if you decide to go that route.

Now you'll probably want some gold box Lapua brass as the chamber neck diameter on mine are right at 0.272".

Ah ok I see what your saying and I also agree. But I think for what Im wanting to do with it and to get my feet wet in the 2-300yrd benchrest class I think from what everyone has said and from what Ive read this rifle should fair pretty well?.. Ok I will look into those bases also what should I di for dies? I use a Lee press but Lee doesn't offer 6mmBR dies except for special runs.

 

[Dave Berg]

I think for what Im wanting to do with it and to get my feet wet in the 2-300yrd benchrest class I think from what everyone has said and from what Ive read this rifle should fair pretty well?..

If you're competing against other factory rifles you should do fine.

Really quite good are the Harrell's FL bushing dies. Fireform a couple cases in your rifle, even if you have to do Bullseye and Cream of Wheat and mail them to Harrell's and in a couple days they'll send you back a semi-custom stainless FL bushing die for $75 with the invoice in the box. You'll need a bushing about one and a half to two thousandths smaller than your loaded round. Get the seating die first, seat a few bullets into the virgin cases and measure the diameter with a micrometer. Redding or Wilson bushings will work in the Harrell's die.

You can also purchase a Forster die, send it back to Forster and have them hone the neck so it sizes it just enough that the expander just barely kisses it. Total price is about the same I believe but Harrell's is quicker.

You might want to put a WTB ad in the classifieds here. Never know what you might find.

For a seating die I would only recommend a Wilson. Not expensive for the basic 6BR die and you can adjust it as precisely as the fancy micrometer version. You'd need to buy a cheap arbor press but they are cheap and the dies are terrific.

 

[sgreen3]

Yea after reading all this stuff I wish I hadn't sold my old Lee breach lock press. Oh well so is life. So you guys don't think the turret press is up for the challenge? An yea most of what guys have their are factory rifles some tuned a little more than others. Their are a few custom rigs that guys use but Im going into this without the intention of doing better than those guys. Im mainly looking to just compete and have fun and make sure I enjoy this type of shooting first.

 

[Terry]

Check the rules, some IN clubs outlaw the BR in factory class.

 

[sgreen3]

Thanks for the heads up Terry. Yea A member sent me a message about that when I first posted and I checked and the caliber is allowed.