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Savage F-Class extraction/ejection

Hi Folks,

I got to fire my new Savage F-Class 6BR yesterday, my third savage. It shoots really well, but has an issue--after firing, it is extremely difficult to pull back the bolt, it basically gets stuck, on some rounds. Also, for all rounds, it extracts but does not eject. That isn't as big a deal as I was considering removing the ejector so I don't have to track down brass, but still noticeable. Neither is an issue with unfired brass (both Lapua, using factory ammo yesterday). They don't have any problem pulling back the bolt, and they eject fine. Any thoughts? Thank you.
 
Sounds like maybe bolt timing, primary extraction issues or maybe rough chamber not sure about the ejection part. Did you clean bolt and gun thoroughly before firing it for the first time?
Best of luck
Wayne
 
I have a thought. Your re-loads are way too hot! If factory ammo works well and your loads do not, they are over max pressure. What load are you using? The old "30 grains of Varget" load is way over what any load book calls for as a max load.
 
Hi, thank you, I have some more info and wasn’t clear. I only fired factory ammo, just ran some empty never fired cases through as a check. I decided to see if a better job cleaning it would help, and noticed that all fired brass has long scratches running down them, some deep enough to catch a thumb nail easily. I sent a note to savage, and will give them a call next week. I am bummed because it really shot well.
 
I had a similar problem with a 243 Win built on a Savage "Target" action. This is my first Savage, I bought it used, it came with about 30 loaded rounds and 60 pieces of Lapua brass which the previous owner told me had about 4 firings. He also gave me a Forster neck die and the recipe for the reloads he was using.

The first time I fired this rifle I had a hard time getting the bolt open. I assumed the rounds were to "hot", but in looking for pressure signs, there were none. The difficulty getting the bolt open happen with probably 80% of the rounds fired. To make a long story short, after doing a lot research I decided there was a "primary extraction" issue with the rifle (a recognized issue with Savage actions). So I made a spacer and glued it to the collar on the back of the bolt as recommended by many articles on various boards. It helped, but didn't solve the problem.

I got lucky and found a couple posts that talked about this issue often being caused by the brass not being sized correctly, even though the bolt closes just fine. So I bought a Redding S-Type Full-Length bushing die. I measured the head space on 10 fired cases and set up the die to move the shoulder back .002. I loaded up some test rounds using the same recipe and had no problem what-so-ever with primary extraction - problem solved. I have since removed the modifications I made to the action and it works perfectly. I also sold the neck die!
 
Hi, thank you, I have some more info and wasn’t clear. I only fired factory ammo, just ran some empty never fired cases through as a check. I decided to see if a better job cleaning it would help, and noticed that all fired brass has long scratches running down them, some deep enough to catch a thumb nail easily. I sent a note to savage, and will give them a call next week. I am bummed because it really shot well.


Do you own a borescope?.... if not you need one. I would look at it with a borescope it may be as simple as a small burr you can remove and polish yourself!.... you say it shoots great just extraction problems,.... savages answer may be to replace the rifle with one that does extract and eject..... but it might not be a shooter. Just my $.02
Wayne
 
Hi Folks,

I got to fire my new Savage F-Class 6BR yesterday, my third savage. It shoots really well, but has an issue--after firing, it is extremely difficult to pull back the bolt, it basically gets stuck, on some rounds. Also, for all rounds, it extracts but does not eject. That isn't as big a deal as I was considering removing the ejector so I don't have to track down brass, but still noticeable. Neither is an issue with unfired brass (both Lapua, using factory ammo yesterday). They don't have any problem pulling back the bolt, and they eject fine. Any thoughts? Thank you.
Check and polish the chamber . If needed Savage will make it right. But the new one may not shoot. Just my two cents. Tommy Mc
 
Thanks again. I couldn’t find a bore scope among my friends so ordered one, it was on the list anyways I suppose. Can you point me to instructions for polishing a chamber? Is a lathe necessary?
 
You shouldn't perform any work on the chamber if you want to return to Savage for rework. I had the same problem with a new 12FV and sent it back. They polished the chamber and it worked fine after that. Was tearing up brass just like you describe.

PM me if you prefer to DIY. I'll get you on the right track.
 
Hi Folks,

I got to fire my new Savage F-Class 6BR yesterday, my third savage. It shoots really well, but has an issue--after firing, it is extremely difficult to pull back the bolt, it basically gets stuck, on some rounds. Also, for all rounds, it extracts but does not eject. That isn't as big a deal as I was considering removing the ejector so I don't have to track down brass, but still noticeable. Neither is an issue with unfired brass (both Lapua, using factory ammo yesterday). They don't have any problem pulling back the bolt, and they eject fine. Any thoughts? Thank you.
tactical Works sell a New Extractor,Ejector kit/ w spring & ball,eliminates problems
 
Hi Folks. Just to complete this, Savage found a burr on the chamber, polished it, and sent it back. It works fine now, and still shoots well. One possibly interesting fact—fired brass comes out a bit smaller now, using same shoulder bump gauge, caliper, and box of Lapua factory ammo it is about 2 .001’s shorter, and a bit more consistent. No idea If that is expected, but I adjusted my sizing die and will monitor going forward. Thanks again.

Jim.
 

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