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Savage Bolt Issues

brad6ppc

Silver $$ Contributor
DSCF5437.JPG DSCF5436.JPG I have a long action bolt and there is an indentation from outside to in that will not let the bolt head go in all the way. What's the reason for this? Is it safe to remove it so I can get the bolt head in?
 
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I have a long action bolt and there is an indentation from outside to in that will not let the bolt head go in all the way. What's the reason for this?

Probably need a picture, as the description is pretty vague.

Is it safe to remove it so I can get the bolt head in?

If you have to ask... the answer is probably 'no'.
 
Are you replacing the bolt head?
The shank of the head that came with it should have a notch in it for locating the extractor on correct side during assebly
 
I am replacing the magnum bolt head with a 308 family bolt head and it won't go in all the way because of the bump on the inside of the bolt.
 
Sounds like you may have the wrong bolt head then. I have no issues swapping out my 7 RM and .308 bolt heads.

Look really closely at the inside of the bolt heads where they slide over the bolt and compare one to the other for any differences.
 
What's the reason for the difference? I don't have any with notches for this other than the one I took out.
 
Brad, the one with the inside notch is how Savage did them a long time ago. I have run into this before and have had no issues removing the inside blip. I think it was there in the beginning so assemblers would not put the bolt head on backwards and fail the ejection test. Google this for more info, you're not the first to run into this. Hope this helps.
 
I am replacing the magnum bolt head with a 308 family bolt head and it won't go in all the way because of the bump on the inside of the bolt.
Is the replacement a ptg one? I ask because none of the ones I have seen (ptg ones) have the notch.
If so you could just get the bolt body from them also.
If I wanted to keep the body I would ether cut a notch in the new one or bore/cut the internal one out.
But that's me
I don't see any purpose for it and they must have decided it was more work then it's worth so they stoped doing it.
 
I agree with you guys it is just to make sure the ejector is in proper location. I don't think it is a safety issue. Thanks for all the help.
 
the notched bolt heads were on the older models, just for alignment.
you can grind it down, some people use a long tapered punch I have never
tried this method I usually rind them down.

no big deal to remove
 
It would be better to notch the bolt head . It was also to help the bolt rotate and extract a stuck round . Remember , the old actions , bolts , had large firing pins and semi fragile bolt head retaining pins .
 
Just grind it down on the inside of the bolt body. It won't hurt anything. I've had to do it on several older Magnum bolt bodies over the years, when swapping out bolt heads.
 
The bolt that holds it together takes great effort to loosen.
First time the bolt is taken apart they are very tight. There is a trick that works, set bolt on floor with allen wrench in BAS, position bolt handle & wrench so you can stand on wrench, apply pressure on wrench with your foot, might have to hop.
 
View attachment 1041122 View attachment 1041123 I have a long action bolt and there is an indentation from outside to in that will not let the bolt head go in all the way. What's the reason for this? Is it safe to remove it so I can get the bolt head in?
I have a couple LA bolt bodies with that same punched body that leaves the dimple outside and protrudes on the inside not allowing the bolt head to seat tight to the top of the body. Will not allow you to slide the bolt head pin thru the bolt body into the lower bolt head. I dremeled mine so it was smooth inside. Did not hurt a thing. Been shooting those 2 guns for years with no issues. I believe this was for the older bolt heads. The newer ones will not work in the bolt bodies I have. The extruding tab needs to be removed.
 
Brad, the one with the inside notch is how Savage did them a long time ago. I have run into this before and have had no issues removing the inside blip. I think it was there in the beginning so assemblers would not put the bolt head on backwards and fail the ejection test. Google this for more info, you're not the first to run into this. Hope this helps.

Had the same problem with my new bolt head from PTG. The notch is just to make sure you align the bolt head properly. I took my dremel with a stone bit and ground it down then smoothed it up real slick. Works great, lasts a long time.
 

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