Savage bolt extraction fix

[josebd]

I ordered the bolt lift kit,I hope it works,I have to use a feeler gauge where it contacts the baffle to get it to extract the brass
the action is a savage 110 ultralite
or if anybody has any ideas ?

 

[josebd]

 

[Evlshnngns]

......

Do you have another bolt you could try? Or a different back shroud piece to measure?

 

[josebd]

With the feeler gauge it works good,not the chamber

 

[Ggmac]

I was fighting a stinkin savage axis last night, won't pull out an unfired round, sticky. Switched a complete bolt from a different gun as a test, better, still sucks. My action must be a bit out of spec.

Do you have another bolt you could try? Or a different back shroud piece to measure?

Are you using the original axis action? Too many people switch the axis bolt handle with a 110 or 10 action and eliminate all primary extraction.

 

[josebd]

110 ultralite

 

[JB10]

The bolt lift kit dont think will fix extraction. Suppose to make bolt lift easier but i felt no change on a 110 and on an axis. There are extraction and ejector upgrade kits.

 

[josebd]

There are extraction and ejector upgrade kits
can you point me in the right direction?

 

[Bill K]

Gunshack.com has a spring and larger ball that fits under the extractor to improve the extraction on the bolt. You can install it yourself by following the instructions.

 

[KRP]

The rear baffle and bolt handle need less clearance between them. You could move the baffle away from the action(shim/set screws/dowels) or recut the bolt body so the handle moves forward.

 

[Evlshnngns]

The rear baffle and bolt handle need less clearance between them. You could move the baffle away from the action(shim/set screws/dowels) or recut the bolt body so the handle moves forward.

I agree with KRP.

Josebd
Something isn't to spec do you have another bolt to compare measurements on?

 

[trgtsnpr]

Gunshack.com has a spring and larger ball that fits under the extractor to improve the extraction on the bolt. You can install it yourself by following the instructions.

I have a model 10 6br will this ball and spring stop it from ejecting all the way over to the next bench (approximately 5 ft) I've never had a gun that would eject the shell that far please help thank you Bill

 

[rjtfroggy]

I have a model 10 6br will this ball and spring stop it from ejecting all the way over to the next bench (approximately 5 ft) I've never had a gun that would eject the shell that far please help thank you Bill

You need to trim the spring until it ejects to your liking.

 

[ShaunBrady]

I ordered the bolt lift kit,I hope it works,I have to use a feeler gauge where it contacts the baffle to get it to extract the brass
the action is a savage 110 ultralite
or if anybody has any ideas ?

There are a couple ways to improve the primary extraction of the Savage 110. The cleanest is shortening the bolt body.



The feeler gauges you're using will give an indication of how much can be removed. If you add enough feeler gauges, eventually the bolt will start clicking against the closing ramps. I go about 0.005" short of that. It usually works out to be 0.015" to 0.030".

That fixes the bolt needs to be yanked on to move it back after opening problem.

The DIY version is to drill and tap the rear bolt baffle for 3 set screws. They're used to effectively thicken the rear baffle.

If it's a new and unmolested gun, Savage will fix it if you send it back.

If the bolt body is shortened, the BAB will need to be shortened or the firing pin spring will pick up preload.



The center bolt is unmodified.

The top bolt has the end turned to remove the preload added by shortening the bolt body plus another 0.025". Rather than just shortening the overall length of the bolt, the end is turned to form a guide collar.

The bottom bolt is one of many styles of bolt lift kits. It's intended for use with a thicker bolt handle that removes the preload added by the longer assembly. The center screw allows adjusting preload.

A full on reduce the bolt lift job by a real Savage gunsmith will focus on the firing pin preload. The cocking ramp will be modified to reduce any extra loading of the firing pin spring beyond what is needed to set the trigger. For DIY, a light bit of high pressure grease and let it burnish in is the best approach. Going in there with a dremel to polish it will be counter productive in the end because the cocking surface won't stay flat.

I'm not a fan the bolt lift kits. At best, they don't accomplish anything a little grease and honest wear won't. The worst ones add preload to the firing pin assembly and increase the bolt lift. As the name implies, they're intended to reduce the effort required to rotate the bolt upward. There are 3 things going on with that motion after a round has been fired. The fired case is cammed loose from the chamber, the firing pin is cocked, and the firing pin assembly rotates inside the bolt body. The bolt lift kits only address the last and may increase the cocking effort if they increase preload. To develop a sense of what really matters, rotate the bolt upward with the gun fired on an empty chamber. Put the bolt back down and reopen it. In the second case, the firing pin stayed cocked and doesn't contribute to the lift. Bolt lift kits only work on some percentage of that last, no case to extract, already fired, bit of lift. They're largely a charade.

I use Savages as test mules for Lapua case based ELR wildcats. I've never had a need to upgrade the extractor balls or springs. The cases stop coming out of the sizing die before they stop coming out of the gun after the primary extraction is improved.

 

[trgtsnpr]

rjtfroggy
thank you sir for the information I will try it this afternoon thanks again bill

 

[rjtfroggy]

Just remember a little at a time, you can't put it back on once it is cut.

 

[Jonnyofalltrades]

You need to trim the spring until it ejects to your liking.

Yes. But trim the EJECTOR spring, not the extractor spring.

 

[rjtfroggy]

Yes. But trim the EJECTOR spring, not the extractor spring.

you are 100% correct I missed putting that in my post.

 

[josebd]

The rear baffle and bolt handle need less clearance between them. You could move the baffle away from the action(shim/set screws/dowels) or recut the bolt body so the handle moves forward.

That is what I’m going to do,I took the baffle to a place in town to have some holes drills and tapped,I’ll pick it up in the morning and get some set screws