Savage bbl. thread ?

[uncleduke]

I have a Krieger bbl that was threaded and chambered like a rem 700(no bbl nut). I sold the action it was on but would like to have the threads extended to use the nut system so that it can be used on my other savage. This should be a fairly easy task for a gunsmith yes? Just wanted to ask someone here first. Thx.

 

[Preacher]

If it is a nutless barrel you'll have a shoulder to butt up against, and if you do, you'll not have room to extend the threads without moving the shoulder back a lot...

 

[SpencerC]

Just because it is going on a Savage action, don't think you must use the nut. There is no reason a shouldered barrel cannot be used, plus it would save a lot of screwing around and you would also be able to set it back again should you want to put it onto another action later (ie. another R700). Just my $.02

 

[H2OBUG]

If you extend the threads your smith will have to be skilled enought to pick up the lead and the pitch on the old thread and run it out--might be a bit of a task to get the run-out perfect too.

I would try to go no-nut if possible

 

[fullersson]

I agree with everyone else. I would try to use it the way it is first. Just have your smith screw it on and check with go/no go gages it may be good to go. Picking up the threads isn't all that hard to do if you know how to do it but dialing that barrel back in to zero isn't going to be as easy and I would recommend against it unless you've ran out of all other options. Also if the barrel doesn't headspace properly you can always order a different size recoil lug to get you to where you need to be, or at least order one that gets you close and then have the lug ground.

The problem with putting a barrel back in the lathe is that they aren't dialed into zero to start with, and I'm not saying it's for lack of trying but the dial indicators are always plus or minus what ever they measure in. So even if the smith does manage to get to zero on the gage you still have the inaccuracy of the gage itself. When you put on back in the lathe even if the smith manages to get back to zero again you still have the inaccuracy of the gage. IMO it is always a bad idea to put the barrel back in the lathe for work; other than to start over. Brian Brown.

 

[uncleduke]

Thanks for all your input. Makes sense to leave it headspacing off the shoulder rather than extend the threads. I'll check the headspace with my gauge and see if it's close enough that a new recoil lug will work. Thanks again.

 

[Rustystud]

Obviously, if the barrel has a shoulder on it, it will require to be turned enough to allow for the nut to extend behind where the shoulder exist. Picking up an existing thread is an aquired skill. The barrel also will have to be dialed in off the existing bore. For most skilled gunsmith/machinist this will take approx. and hour of machine and operator time to do it correctly.

Since there are existing threads the tenon could also be turned down to makor OD. and threads extended by means of a tap.

There are positives and negatives about either method.
Nat Lambeth