Savage barrel nut wrench help needed.

[BoydAllen]

I always used a torque wrench for everything that has a spec. when building engines, but never seem to need one for rifle work. Over the years I have developed a pretty good feel for tightening fasteners, or in this case, a barrel nut, and have never had a problem. I tighten Savage nuts by feel, the rifles shoot well and the nuts never loosen. I put a thin coat of copper based anti seize on the barrel threads with an acid brush, brushing it out as thin as I can get it.

 

[Rsadams]

I always used a torque wrench for everything that has a spec. when building engines, but never seem to need one for rifle work. Over the years I have developed a pretty good feel for tightening fasteners, or in this case, a barrel nut, and have never had a problem. I tighten Savage nuts by feel, the rifles shoot well and the nuts never loosen. I put a thin coat of copper based anti seize on the barrel threads with an acid brush, brushing it out as thin as I can get it.

Yes..lol.. For years I over tightned everything until getting a feel for it myself as long as you stretch the threads against each other it will normally stay tight... I feel I still over tighten everything becouse of being raised by an old school farmer.. After working in my father's machine shop for a decade I finally figured out how little it takes most of the time to keep things together. Even things you think would need a lot of torque really do not..

I think also alot of people get in trouble when useing lube on fasteners not realizing the increased torque value over the dry spec...

 

[savagedasher]

I never install a nut on a stud without lube . And a barrel is no different then a stud .
70' # is not excessive . The biggest reason for lube is stainless has a bad tendency to Gaul. . Anti-sizeing lube is a must . Larry

 

[hogpatrol]

I never install a nut on a stud without lube . And a barrel is no different then a stud .
70' # is not excessive . The biggest reason for lube is stainless has a bad tendency to Gaul. . Anti-sizeing lube is a must . Larry

I wondered where the term Gaul came from. Now I know.

 

[Rsadams]

I never install a nut on a stud without lube . And a barrel is no different then a stud .
70' # is not excessive . The biggest reason for lube is stainless has a bad tendency to Gaul. . Anti-sizeing lube is a must . Larry

Also when installing steel into aluminum... Use never seize or they become attached to each other very well over time.. This is really a must on spark plugs in an aluminum head.. You can not do it if you want and they might come out just fine.. I have seen many not though... Also very good advise when building the m16 platform..

 

[NorCalMikie]

Torque Wrench? FAGETABOUTIT!! Snug the nut up, double check the headspace. If it's cool, tap the wrench with a ball peen hammer and go shooting. Be sure to double check the headspace AFTER you "hit that wrench". Could change.
Out of my 5+ Savage rigs, never had one come loose and I've lost count of how many barrel swaps I've done.
Snug it up, smack it, mark it. (barrel,action and nut) That way, you can see if the marks are lined up, just in case it EVER comes loose, but don't count on it.
Masking tape on the barrel with a black mark/line, mark on the nut a well as the action.

 

[savagedasher]

When you tighten the nut you increase head space . If you do it the same it don't matter . Larry

 

[M-61]

When you tighten the nut you increase head space . If you do it the same it don't matter . Larry

Yes you do increase the headspace as you are pulling the barrel out of the action. I take my time when doing this and I wind up a bit tight on headspace but then securing the jam nut leaves it where I want it. Takes me a couple of tries but I'm never in a rush.
I waste more time with that stupid extractor ball than anything.

 

[BoydAllen]

Just as a point of reference, a retired Savage engineer once told me that they use something called a swing gauge when installing the barrels at the factory. According to him it is like a bolt with the gauge built in, and is made two thousandths shorter than a GO gauge to compensate for thread settling when proofing (and probably nut tightening stretch). In any case, one of the advantages that their system offers is very consistent chamber headspace. Once, years back, a friend had a new Remington varmint rifle in .223, one of the fancy ones with a fluted stainless barrel and HS precision stock. Is bolt would close on a NO GO gauge. He had a smith set the barrel back to correct the headspace. I know a fellow who has done some bullet testing using a rail gun in a good tunnel, with an action that is threaded and has a bolt face like a Savage. He used Shilen's top grade of barrels that were made for nuts, and told me that he saw no difference in accuracy compared to conventional barrels.

 

[Mtstalker]

Here is a pocket chart that doesnt cover all lubes but is pretty handy.

 

[Mtstalker]

Thank you all for the information it has been a big help

 

[JLT]

I waste more time with that stupid extractor ball than anything.

Amen to that. I have a drawer full of .125" ball bearings. I'm sure there are several dozen on the shop floor.

 

[memilanuk]

Amen to that. I have a drawer full of .125" ball bearings. I'm sure there are several dozen on the shop floor.

Do yourself a favor... next time use a 9/64" (0.140") ball bearing instead of the stock 1/8" size. Takes up the slop and tends to work better. Its a very slight improvement, but still an improvement.

 

[JLT]

Do yourself a favor... next time use a 9/64" (0.140") ball bearing instead of the stock 1/8" size. Takes up the slop and tends to work better. Its a very slight improvement, but still an improvement.

Thanks for the tip - definitely going to give that a try.

 

[normmatzen]

My first bench rest gun was a 243 WIN with Savage PTA. I bought a Shilen match barrel and installed it myself with a go and no-go gauge set. I was advised by a Very knowledgeable fellow to snug the nut with a barrel nut wrench then give the end of the wrench a wack with the heel of your hand. I did this and I got a tack driver barrel and the nut never loosened.
Don't forget, the barrel nut does NOT hold the barrel in the action! The nut is just a lock nut to keep it from turning but it doesn't have to withstand the chamber pressure as that is done by the barrel threads and action threads with the nut just a lock nut.

 

[Someoldguy]

Also when installing steel into aluminum... Use never seize or they become attached to each other very well over time.. This is really a must on spark plugs in an aluminum head.. You can not do it if you want and they might come out just fine.. I have seen many not though... Also very good advise when building the m16 platform..

I'm afraid I must take exception to this statement. Anti-sieze on spark plugs has caused me far more trouble than leaving them dry. The biggest trouble I have seen is from plugs that extend through the head and into the combustion chamber, aluminum head or no. I've also found that lube of nearly any kind on wheel studs is a bad idea, unless you're dealing with things like farm implements, and then a penetrant is good to get the lug nuts off, not so good for reassembly.

But we were talking about barrel nuts, weren't we? I apologize for my digression.

 

[Rsadams]

I'm afraid I must take exception to this statement. Anti-sieze on spark plugs has caused me far more trouble than leaving them dry. The biggest trouble I have seen is from plugs that extend through the head and into the combustion chamber, aluminum head or no. I've also found that lube of nearly any kind on wheel studs is a bad idea, unless you're dealing with things like farm implements, and then a penetrant is good to get the lug nuts off, not so good for reassembly.

But we were talking about barrel nuts, weren't we? I apologize for my digression.

Today's plugs stay in for years.. Most people don't even change them.. But what do i know.. We own a motor machine shop and I have put in more than one helicoil in an aluminum head and have had to soak them with pb penetration oil for days to try and get them out.. But hey you can do it how ever you want , this is America... I don't think I said anything about wheel nuts or studs I did say something about the m16 platform..

 

[savagedasher]

30 something year ago when the first aluminum heads came out they recommended
Anti seize be used when instilling plugs
Now every company does .
Works for me when installing any barrel.
Larry

 

[hogpatrol]

Installed many a spark plug in aluminum Lycoming aircraft jugs and used this product, SOP

http://www.championaerospace.com/products/champion-tools/spark-plug-thread-lubricant

 

[NorCalMikie]

Don't you just LOVE that SQUEEEEK you hear trying to remove stuck spark plugs that you can hardly see in the first place?? Just waiting for them to start turning real easy.