Are there any "C" shaped Savage barrel nut wrenches?

[GrocMax]

The cheapest Savage action wrench is the #2 Wheeler one. I modified mine with a slot for the rail, and a counterbore for recoil lug pin clearance.

 

[perry42]

no doubt

i always grind that screw down where it does not get into the barrel threads when i install a new barrel. might be the reason so many have a hard time removing a factory barrel

Great post I forgot about the mount screw engaging the rifling.

perry42

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Great post I forgot about the mount screw engaging the rifling.

perry42

and if they use loctite on the base screws it seeps into the barrel threads

 

[Richard Coody]

View attachment 1027733

This one is 3/8". The wrench and I both can get a better purchase with it being thicker overall. I'd still remove the scope when taking off a barrel, though.

+1 for 40# of torque. some even just hand tighten them.

well i don't recommend this for removing a factory barrel but the easiest way to be able to switch barrels is after headspacing glue your barrel nut in place and then use a barrel vice and rear entry action wrench. if done correctly you can screw the barrel out without removing the action from the stock or the scope. Change barrels at will.

 

[C.E.Smith043]

Take the scope off. Unless its a very thick wrench you are going to spread a C shaped one. In fact buying a C wrench is pretty much going to guarantee you'll find a gorilla on steroids installed nut. I personally don't like the overhang style rails, never needed to move the scope that far forward, but can see maybe a prone shooter needing it.

And I milled a slot in my action wrench so the rail can stay on the action.

Would u mimd posting a pic of ur wrench, id like to copy that idea. Thank you

 

[teele1]

i saw this a long time ago on SavageShooter.com ...................thanks Bill for this

 

[BillPa]

Would u mind posting a pic of ur wrench, id like to copy that idea. Thank you

I've been using this setup for last 20+ years.....

I've shot as many as many as four barrels (three swaps) on a bench at the range or the tailgate of my truck, the last two on the carpeted floor of my man cave. Torque? I use a grunt to a grunt and a half using my big 'ol calibrated arms. I don't know if its enough or not, I haven't had one come loose yet to find out.
BTW, I use a totally different setup and my 240+#s to remove factory installed barrels. That open ended spanner and factory installed barrels-nuts don't play well together!

Mount screws into the barrel threads and or the lug recess? Before those screws even get close I use what amounts to an old time carpenter's depth gauge I made to check their lengths.

Bill

 

[M-61]

Rear entry barrel wrench (like Pike's) are the same tool for Savage and Rem700's.

 

[memilanuk]

Rear entry barrel wrench (like Pike's) are the same tool for Savage and Rem700's.

Not all of them. The Davidson ones from Sinclair's that I linked to earlier are action-specific, and the one I have *will not* fit a Rem700 (i tried)... it says "Stolle / Savage".

 

[cnwrobb]

i saw this a long time ago on SavageShooter.com ...................thanks Bill for this
View attachment 1027834

I use almost the exact same setup. Works great for a quick barrel swap on previously installed barrels with a little antisieze on the barrel threads. I don't "gorilla" up the barrel nut like factory installed. Hand tight and then snug up with modified Savage wrench.

 

[M-61]

Not all of them. The Davidson ones from Sinclair's that I linked to earlier are action-specific, and the one I have *will not* fit a Rem700 (i tried)... it says "Stolle / Savage".

"The one I said PIKE's is from site member (pike57??) I called him and asked and that was his answer. His tool is marked "700" but he said it works on Savage which is all I have.
I can't recall his name exactly but the tool is 1st class. Really only concerned when it's a factory installed barrel.