Savage barrel nut wrench help needed.

[Mtstalker]

Doing my first barrel swap on a savage. Plan on 35ft/lb of tourqe. Now heres rhe queation do i put my tourqe wrench in the square closest to the barrel nut or the square farthest from the barrel? Also do i use grease or nickel anti seize on the threads. Im using a wheeler barrel nut wrench. In the instructions it says 2 whacks with a rubber mallet or 30-40 ft/lbs. No where does it say which square to put your ratchet on. Thanks.

 

[DHuffman]

Put the drive of the torque wrench in the square closest to the nut and use a little anti size.

I've always used the 2 whack method.

 

[jdh47]

It really depends on who's doing the whacking. I know some guys that can come near stripping threads whacking. Some people are just gifted I suppose.

Joe

 

[DHuffman]

It really depends on who's doing the whacking. I know some guys that can come near stripping threads whacking. Some people are just gifted I suppose.

Joe

I've done more than I can remember and whacked them pretty good when I first started and never hurt any threads. If a guy has a torque wrench that would be the way to go though.

 

[Ggmac]

I use the silver anti seize . It does get over everything but is worth it , especially on stainless .

 

[Mtstalker]

We use silver antisieze at work on everything. By the end of the day you look like the tin man lol. The worst is collidial graphite antiseize it works through leather gloves and your hands are black.

 

[jds holler]

OK, so I didn't use any goop on my stainless Pac-nut. Couple of raps with my plastic beatin stick. Am I gonna have trouble in the future? jd

 

[Richard Coody]

I reccomend the NSS nut wrench.

I use a torque wrench. 30 to 35 ft/lbs is plenty.

Use just a dab of the nickel antiseise

 

[Richard Coody]

OK, so I didn't use any goop on my stainless Pac-nut. Couple of raps with my plastic beatin stick. Am I gonna have trouble in the future? jd

Not on the nut. The barrel threads

 

[M-61]

I use anti-seize.
I use a torque wrench with the Wheeler jam nut wrench.
It should be used in the closest hole to the nut.
Using the furthest hole adds 7" to the length and you need a formula to convert to the correct value. (It is also awkward to use the far hole)
I torque to 35-40 ft lbs.
Since the use of any grease, oil, anti-seize, etc., is also a lubricant, there are torque REDUCTION tables for the particular lube. However in this application it really is of zero concern. An indicated 40ftlbs. is fine.. I have been unsuccessful in finding written instructions that state the torque that a manufacturer recommends much less if a lube is used.
The above is what I do. It is not law and if someone wants to use a hammer that's their business not mine.

 

[Iowa Fox]

The instructions that came with my NNS wrench state 45-50 ft lbs. I didn't torque that much and the first year out my nut & barrel came loose. Field torqued it with a screw driver & hammer to let me keep shooting. This winter I torqued it to 47.5 ft lbs and two thump with a dead blow. The thumps did not move the nut. I used the square notch closest to the nut with the torque wrench 90 degrees to the nut wrench. Did not get to shoot other than a little range time this year. Next year I hope. I think nuts coming loose is more common than gets admitted.

 

[hoz53]

Doing my first barrel swap on a savage. Plan on 35ft/lb of tourqe. Now heres rhe queation do i put my tourqe wrench in the square closest to the barrel nut or the square farthest from the barrel? Also do i use grease or nickel anti seize on the threads. Im using a wheeler barrel nut wrench. In the instructions it says 2 whacks with a rubber mallet or 30-40 ft/lbs. No where does it say which square to put your ratchet on. Thanks.

And if you havent taken the factory nut off yet you may be in for a surprise. they are usually real tight. i clamp the action in a receiver wrench and take the factory nut off with a pipe wrench and throw it away (the nut)so have an extra nut when you do it.

 

[Mtstalker]

I took it off it wasnt to bad. Hit it with a small butane torch quick and it popped loose. I did make sure i didnt heat the action up at all. I had my hand on it the whole time.

 

[hoz53]

I took it off it wasnt to bad. Hit it with a small butane torch quick and it popped loose. I did make sure i didnt heat the action up at all. I had my hand on it the whole time.

ok sounds good

 

[rjtfroggy]

The factory uses nothing on the threads, personally I use a very small dab of gun grease.
Tightening I use the " give it a thump with rubber mallet" method never had one come loose yet, but there is always a first time.
I remember reading some where the factory uses 70 lbs. torque.

 

[Blackthorn]

I have used both the torque and the whack method and really don't see any difference. I guess it is what method you're comfortable with or what tools you have at hand.

 

[Rsadams]

Iam just going to throw this in here... When useing oil , grease or anti seize the torque will be alot more than If it's dry.. So if your value of 40 footpound is for a dry fastner your value will be alot more than 40 If lubed...I am sure you guys already know this.. This will also apply when useing loctight..as in when installing scope bases etc..

 

[carlsbad]

I don't think the torque value is critical but if you want to get approximately what the wrench is set to, put the torque wrench at 90 degrees to the nut wrench. Here is a video that makes it clear.

 

[wvlongshot]

It really depends on who's doing the whacking. I know some guys that can come near stripping threads whacking. Some people are just gifted I suppose.

Joe

I think that is referred to as Farm Boy tight in my neck of the woods

 

[memilanuk]

The factory uses nothing on the threads, personally I use a very small dab of gun grease.
Tightening I use the " give it a thump with rubber mallet" method never had one come loose yet, but there is always a first time.
I remember reading some where the factory uses 70 lbs. torque.

Used to be a running joke that there was a person at the end of the production line named 'Kong' that tightened the factory barrels on...

They do use a bit of Loctite Thread Sealer... it supposed to keep the various coatings from getting into the threads and locking things up. Personally, I think either they don't use enough, or its just not working as intended. Bare stainless steel barrels / actions (i.e. 12 F/TR) come apart reasonably easy; the ones that have the black matte coatings like my 12 LRP, 10 PC-SR, 10 FP-LE2, etc.... those things are a bear to get apart. The factory does use a torque wrench, set for (IIRC) 87 ft-lbs. Been there, seen it, touched it. Once that black coating gets in there though... it takes a heckuva lot more than 87 ft-lbs to break it loose.