savage barrel nut question

[twoodard]

I have multiple savage's now. a couple are customs that a friend with the right machinery helped me put together. all still have the factory barrel nut system on them as I wanted to be able to change out barrels myself later on. my question is is there a way to permanently/semi-permanently lock the barrel nut to the barrel after it is head spaced and correct? I have been thinking set screws or a hole with a pin installed through both barrel and nut. this way I could remove the barrel, install a pre-fit and head space it correct then lock that nut in. leaving myself with two barrels that can be screwed on and off against a "shoulder"

any thoughts or ideas would be great

 

[Samdweezel05]

Assemble them with red loctite on the barrel nut.

 

[Preacher]

How about just setting them up with out the nut like the Remingtons...

 

[schumi]

How about just setting them up with out the nut like the Remingtons...

Savage isn't made to do that. You set your head space by screwing the barrel down and then lock it in by screwing the barrel nut down to the action. A jam nut in a mannner of speaking. So really Sam is right with the red loctite, as long as you don't get any on the action itself, or then the whole idea is shot.

 

[fullersson]

I've heard of people pinning the barrel nut to the barrel, but I agree with preacher. Whether you set it up like a remington or you decide to lock the barrel nut to the barrel you will still need an action wrench that will allow you to torque the action to the barrel or you will not get the barrel back in the same location and depending on how tight the tolerances are that can cause headspace problems. If you decide to use your gun as a switch barrel gun and are interested in an action wrench let me know I can probably help you.

 

[twoodard]

I have access to a action wrench now but would like to get my own at some point. the red loctite will hold it enough for repeatability? what about a epoxy?

as for setting them up with a shoulder. if I had my own equipment to thread and chamber a barrel i could do that. but I do not so its either send it out and pay the big money or buy pre-fits/semi custom barrels and install them myself. I am more than capable of doing that as I did the last three that a friend with lathe helped me machine.

 

[fullersson]

I do think that some expoxy's would hold, but you would have to be careful not to get any in the action area while letting it set up or you would never get your barrel off. I think pinning the barrel nut to the barrel would be your best option, but with that option you're back to having someone do the barrel work for you. Good luck, Brian.

 

[fdshuster]

Recently had my mdl.12BVSS rebarreled (again), this time without the barrel nut, but the main reason was to be able to use a heavy varmint contour with the full 1.200" diameter, and a straight taper. Did not like the idea of being locked into the smaller dia. ( 1.025"?) when using the barrel nut. Now, it's on and off and headspaces just like my Remingtons.

 

[jesker]

What I have done is to drill a 1/8" hole through the right side of the receiver about 1/8" into the barrel after the barrel has been headspaced. You can take the barrel off and put it back on,line up the holes put a pin in the holes to hold them inline and tighen the barrel nut, then remove the pin and it will be the same headspace as before.

 

[tipper999]

A pre-fit Savage barrel will fit any Savage action. Why would you want to change that ?
No loctite or epoxy bad idea. screw up the threads throw it away.
With some care the action will last a life time or two and many many barrels!
All you need is action wrench or barrel vice, barrel nut wrench, proper head-space go-gauge!!

 

[Samdweezel05]

A pre-fit Savage barrel will fit any Savage action. Why would you want to change that ?
No loctite or epoxy bad idea. screw up the threads throw it away.
With some care the action will last a life time or two and many many barrels!
All you need is action wrench or barrel vice, barrel nut wrench, proper head-space go-gauge!!

Loctite ruins threads? You better send that memo to every engine/transmission builder in the country because we have been doing it all wrong for years. He wants to make HIS barrels fit HIS action and be able to change them back and forth with out having to use headspace gauges every time. It's a pretty simple concept. Even if he wanted to sell the barrel down the road, heat will release the loctite and the nut can be removed. And just so you don't ask, it takes more heat than you would see by firing the weapon.

 

[schumi]

+1 to Sam

 

[tipper999]

ya get the torch out jack of all trades

 

[Samdweezel05]

ya get the torch out jack of all trades

A high end heat gun will do the job, no need for torches.

But if you must know....I have spent the last 7 years working as a welder and heavy equipment mechanic. I deal mostly with Cummins diesels ranging from the 10 liter L10 to the 14 liter N14. Motor tear downs and rebuilds are what I get paid to do. I also deal with the Allison 650, 750 and 4560 series automatic transmissions. Again, tear downs and rebuilds are what I do. As well as Allison 4560 Worlds transmissions swaps into N14 powered trucks. I am certified to weld Food grade (304) Stainless pipe.

Before that I spent 3 years with a local contractor as there residential plumbing foreman. 200 houses +/- 5 to my credit from the ground up including heating and septic systems. I am certified by NYS to be able to install natural gas lines and also certified by 3 different manufacturers of corrugated stainless gas piping to install there product. Got to go to school to be able to service Riello and Becket burners as well as Buderus boilers

Before that it was 2 years in the commercial HVAC trade as a tin knocker and plumber.

I have also spent some time doing asbestos removal and encapsulation. My dad was the 3rd person in New York state to become certified to deal with asbestos back in the day. Dad is also a certified diesel mechanic.

I am proficient with pneumatics and hydraulics. Have spent some time dealing with electrical ranging from 120-477 VAC.

Spent 4 years racing ATV's on the ice. Everything was built, not bought.

Current line up in the garage is a 600hp 1200ft lb Duramax diesel Built 91 mustang GT and a Lifted and built Polaris Sportsman 800.

I may not be certified by Loctite but I have a pretty good understanding how there products work.

 

[Spook]

This one's been castrated...works and shoots real well...barrels dont need nuts.

 

[twoodard]

I understand that they don't need nuts. for some of us we don't have a lathe and don't want to spend the money and time required to have a smith do our work. with the savage I can order a prefit and put it on myself and head space it myself by using the nut system. I may try to loctite one on my striker then go from there.

 

[rayjay]

There are pros and cons to the nut. I use a Pacnor made nut on my Remington 40X rimfire so I don't have a shoulder on the bbl profile.

You can change a nutless bbl in far less time than it takes to change one with the nut but as has been mentioned, the bbl has to be chambered to a specific receiver and bolt.

 

[Spook]

I understand that they don't need nuts. for some of us we don't have a lathe and don't want to spend the money and time required to have a smith do our work. with the savage I can order a prefit and put it on myself and head space it myself by using the nut system. I may try to loctite one on my striker then go from there.

Rockset, used to install muzzle brakes...adapters for silencers.

 

[GrocMax]

The cheap way would be to saw the nut in 1/2, face it square, make sure the grooves line up when tight, and use the 2nd one as a jam nut. Jam the two nuts very tight. Remove with a barrel wrench with the inside nut, install with the outside.

 

[tipper999]

The GORILLA is alive and well.

Jam the two nuts very tight.