Savage 22-250 hard extraction(update)
- Thread starter josebd
- Start date
josebd
Silver $$ Contributor
Well,not good,first shot,bolt hard to lift up,could not even budge the bolt back to pull the round out of chamber.
One thing I noticed,a loaded round measures .2515 outside of neck
A fired round measures.2525 outside of neck
Tight neck?
I measured a .223 round fired in my Shilen and the outside neck measured .255
One thing I noticed,a loaded round measures .2515 outside of neck
A fired round measures.2525 outside of neck
Tight neck?
I measured a .223 round fired in my Shilen and the outside neck measured .255
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Primary extraction possibly. I have learned this the hard way with a couple savage rifles. If this is the problem it’s easy to see. And have since learned that it’s common.
josebd
Silver $$ Contributor
How could that be? I had to use a rod in the bore to knock the bolt back
Because you’re not getting primary extraction. At the top of the bolt motion there’s a little ramp or wedge that starts the process. Savage sometimes has this out of time. In any bolt gun it’s needed as I understand. It’s easy to spot and if it’s your problem great if not who knows but I have found this and it’s confirmed by people smarter than me that this is not unusual. If so, it’s just a little mill working on the bolt handle where it is joining the bolt.
I also have ruined the brass end of a perfectly fine cleaning rod getting the bolt back before fixing this issue. I pulled my hair out for a long time before discovering it. Then come to find out it’s not all that uncommon , could have saved some hair
memilanuk
Gold $$ Contributor
Yup. Try sticking a feeler gauge between the rear bolt baffle and the receiver, using a few more until you find the right amount to make it work.
The video shows them directly between the ramp on the baffle and the ramp on the bolt handle, but it's usually easier to put them between the back of the receiver and the front of the baffle. Basically you have to push the baffle back to where the cam ramp on the baffle actually engages the ramp on the bolt handle so that you have primary extraction. Some brands of brass (Hornady in particular) tend to be kind of 'sticky' and swell in the areas that really make primary extraction a priority - which, sad to say, is not a strong point of the Savage actions. Better brass (Lapua) can cover for the problem to a degree, but sometimes it really needs more direct steps.
If that fixes it, there are a few options for how to make it permanent. Let us know if that helps with your extraction.
The video shows them directly between the ramp on the baffle and the ramp on the bolt handle, but it's usually easier to put them between the back of the receiver and the front of the baffle. Basically you have to push the baffle back to where the cam ramp on the baffle actually engages the ramp on the bolt handle so that you have primary extraction. Some brands of brass (Hornady in particular) tend to be kind of 'sticky' and swell in the areas that really make primary extraction a priority - which, sad to say, is not a strong point of the Savage actions. Better brass (Lapua) can cover for the problem to a degree, but sometimes it really needs more direct steps.
If that fixes it, there are a few options for how to make it permanent. Let us know if that helps with your extraction.
josebd
Silver $$ Contributor
I took a factory hornady round,I measured the headspace,it was .003 less than a fired round in this barrel.
Measured the outside neck on the factory round it was .253
When I chambered the round the bolt handle had a little resistance.
Fired the round and it ejected very good.
Measured outside of fired neck .252
Measured the outside neck on the factory round it was .253
When I chambered the round the bolt handle had a little resistance.
Fired the round and it ejected very good.
Measured outside of fired neck .252
Measure your reloads at the .200 line and measure the just fired factory load at the same place. Are they identical?
Paul
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