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Savage 111 custom build

Well, I've been busy building a Savage 111, I needed a 300 Win Mag, for hunting moose. Something that I can use in the woods and not worry about keeping it nice. I have 50 long guns, ten-fifteen are for hunting, a whole lot of different calibers for hunting.

First thing I'm looking at is a good, reasonable, scope, that is five hundred yards max, any suggestions?

Everything that I've done to this rifle has been custom, the bolt has been cleaned where Savage has been removed, the barrel was rotated around so the blank side of the barrel is up. I took the stock and sealed it up against the elements inside and outside, installing a cross bolt in the stock. The Savage has a older style trigger, however it was made in 2006. I have the no go, go exact, scope rings loc-tite, sling is push release with a leather sling. I cut the tip off, installed a custom tip, grip cap is hand made using white spacers.

Barrel installed, 300 Win Mag using 212-Grain ELDX

I'm working on finishing the bolt assembly, a couple of the parts are non existent, except from the factory. I have my license which cleared the parts for order. I found everything used, the bolt handle is threaded, which is what I want.

I've ordered a five round magazine, which in the future I will order a extra one.

It's been great building this rifle, custom things are installed making this durable for hunting, rugged, and it's specific to what I wanted.

Specifications:
Wooden walnut stock sealed from the elements.
300 Win Mag barrel purchased for the rifle.
Older trigger, cleaned tuned a must.
Leather sling, push release swivel.
5 round magazine.
Scope ?
Savage Arms removed from rifle sight.
Custom bolt for winter hunting, large knob.
Thick recoil pad.
Stock reinforcement.
Top bolt release a must.
 

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Works for me. Not a bench gun but I bet it'll get the job done.
Build it till you get it the way YOU want it.:D
 
500 yards...you need ranging capability (FFP)?
Recently purchased an Athlon Ares BTR and am impressed with the quality...but everyone has their own definition of what "reasonable" is when it comes to optics.
 
Nope, where I'm at, we don't use shooting ranges, just find a location in the woods, and sight the rifle in. Then go hunting.

I have all the professional tools to sight the rifle in, most of the time I'm really close to the target after I sight the rifle in and thats where it should be, making it easier for the person using it..
 
How could you "rotate the barrel"-either direction- without increasing headsapce excessively, or needing to set back the breech on a lathe and deepen the chamber?
 
How could you "rotate the barrel"-either direction- without increasing headsapce excessively, or needing to set back the breech on a lathe and deepen the chamber?
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The barrel I'm using is a 300 Win Mag, a "used" barrel, with excellent Lands & grooves.

Well, I checked the headspace at the "original factory position" before rotating the barrel clockwise. The factory headspace specification seems to be "sloppy". When I rotated the barrel tightening up the headspace the slop in the headspace disappeared. The no go gauge now sits farther up on the bolt handle, while the go gauge is still 100%, the go gauge has space that won't be a problem for ammo being chambered and ejected.

Sometimes if you get a barrel swap and you align up the witnesses marks you have to deal with the go and no go gauge being correct. Sometimes you need to adjust the barrel to accept the go, no go gauge.
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Working with a Savage barrel is easy peasy compared to other barrels I've installed since you can actually fine tune the barrel to the point of being exactly perfect with the no go, go gauge. This barrel with the original factory location was piss poor on the no go gauge, I would not have put a round through it at the factory settings. When I tightened up the barrel, clockwise, the no go gauge started to improve until it was perfect. during the process I checked the go gauge and everything was excellent, again the go gauge doesn't bind, checking the headspace I made sure a round after being fired won't get stuck. I looked at the savage information and it was inside the stock when installed.

My number one goal before the build was to remove the Savage print from the barrel, and I didn't have much work to accomplish that goal.
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The bolt was spun and cleaned up until it was shining clean and spiffy.
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I changed out the bolt handle for something I can use if I'm wearing gloves.
 

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I've found a whole lot of parts on the internet used, new, and I still came out within a reasonable budget. I had the sling assembly, recoil pad, white spacers sheets, iron sights, scope parts, etc.
The barrel ($60.00), bolt ($30.00), bolt handle ($20.00) was used and really cheap since the bolt was used it looked ugly, receiver is in good shape ($40.00). The new parts were the bolt inside parts which did cost some money, better to be new than old on bolt parts, walnut stock ($75.00), stock sealer, "vintage walnut gun stock stain" sealer for gun stocks ($20.00), used to restore older firearms, bolts ($15.00), trigger guard ($25.00), bottom metal ($80.00). I got a better deal on the bottom metal at the factory as well as the two bolt pieces.

This build didn't break the bank, the only thing left is; the scope and a 5 round factory magazine. Those two items are expensive no doubt a good hunting scope and a five round magazine.
 
What do you think about ammo?

I've been looking at:

"300 Win Mag 200 gr ELD-X®Precision Hunter®
Item #82002 | 20/Box"
"Accuracy and terminal performance are the cornerstones of Hornady® Precision Hunter® factory loaded ammunition. Great care has been given by Hornady engineers to develop superior, match-accurate hunting loads that allow the ELD-X® bullet to achieve its maximum ballistic potential.

Propellants used in the Precision Hunter® ammunition line are clean burning and loaded to uniform capacity for consistent shot to shot results regardless of temperature. This attention to detail provides the highest levels of accuracy and performance uniformity for the most demanding and diverse hunting situations."
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This information is from the factory websites.

I have other 300 Win Mag ammo, several different manufacturers boxes in fact, however this caught my eye. I need to have a one shot one kill.
 
This is a better view of the bolt after it was cleaned up, as well as the receiver. I think it looks awesome. :D
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The stock quick disconnect.
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The grip cap being installed.
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Close-up of the stock, I think the white accent looks excellent.

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I installed the pillars securing them with epoxy. I think this will help stabilize the and unite the stock, receiver, trigger guard, floor plate creating a good bond.
 
I built a Sav 111 last year in 300 Win Mag.
Shilen select match 12T barrel in #3 taper.
Boyd's pro varmint laminated stock
I used a Whidden V block, but made my own pillars
I made my own bolt knob.
I used Aluma Hyde II paint on the barrel and stock.
 

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D
I built a Sav 111 last year in 300 Win Mag.
Shilen select match 12T barrel in #3 taper.
Boyd's pro varmint laminated stock
I used a Whidden V block, but made my own pillars
I made my own bolt knob.
I used Aluma Hyde II paint on the barrel and stock.

download.jpeg
This is not your daddy's hunting rifle. :eek:
Mine is a hunting rifle, not pretty, just a moose hunter.
 
Before anyone laughs about my scope set up!!!

Nikon PR31
3-9X40
P-223


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I received this complete scope assembly for free, in the box new, so why not use it in my Savage??received_1616984848443820_kindlephoto-1778377229.jpg

;) The scope aligned up gnats butt, the only real difference is the adjustments but it's new for FREE!

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:) And the best part is the scope rings you can use the iron sights with the scope rings attached!
So I have the five round magazine ordered and it's going to be a helligan. I have put s rounds through it, everything functions great! :)
 
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:) The reason ive been side tracked is I had to purchase a NEW truck. My 2007 Ford truck had one hundred eighty thousand miles and the engine was worn out to the bone!

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I debadged the truck, it's a Hemi, 8 speed transmission, what a great ride a throwback from the old days, I have been hunting a single cab, 8 foot box for awhile. This is exactly what I want, a Classic, Tradesman just like the early 1970's. :)

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This is a great set up, I did all of the work, 115V, 12V, heater, lighting, fabricating by myself, started with a Korean war communications shelter, gutted it out, reused as much as I could, and now its my workshop. :)

Manufactured: 05-15-2019 @ 0900 AM
Fuel: 88 octane
Make: Ram
Model: Tradesman Classic 4X4
Engine: Hemi 5.7L V8 16V
Bed: 8'
Cab: Regular
Transmission: 8HP70
Generation: 5th generation
Rear axle: 3.21
 
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Another sidetrack is a 1884 revolver, Smith &Wesson, the seller called it a parts gun not working. I paid $50.00 for it! :)

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Note: this firearm was NEVER taken apart before servicing it! :)
When I received it I disassembled the whole firearm, cleaning everything by hand. The old oil was rock hard everywhere. After cleaning each part I hand rubbed the exterior bringing out this beautiful finish. It's all original, the grips are written with the serial number, it is timed gnats butt. :)
In this condition it's worth easily $400.00 since it's all original. ;)

Serial number: 80765
Year: 1883-1885
Make: Smith & Wesson
Model: 4, 32 double action
Caliber: 32S&W
Grips: Original hard rubber
Finish: nickel
 
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