Salt bath annealing....how do you get that cooled salt puck out?

[oley55]

I would be interested in seeing the components you use and the results. I am a total dummy all things electronic, but if it looks easy enough, I might try it and see if I can avoid burning my garage down.

about everything you would need to know in this thread, and yes I am an electronics idiot. You otta see all of my burnt/pitted screw drivers and/or nips which encountered unexpected household electrical currents.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?49410-Pid-temp-control-finished-!!!

the only change or alteration I am doing is to add a circuit breaker type on/off switch found on the Auber site eliminating the need for a separate fuse. Or so me thinks....?

 

[Rick300]

Thank you - vewy interesting
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[AJC]

There are three conditions that effect neck tension, besides die size.
1 Work hardening the brass (sizing)
2 Annealing ( or more properly stress relieving)
3 aging
I wonder how similar the pattern is to lead bullet casting and harness.

Anytime the brass hardness is artificially altered, either through working or annealing, the brass will continue to harden gradually with the passage of time (aging).

Many competition shooters will load and shoot, same day, within hours if possible. Not just to load for conditions of the day, or time/temp of the day, but also to reduce the effects of changing necks tension due to aging. This is particularly true for shooting long distance where slight changes in neck tension can result in large changes in group size.

Someone here posted a while back regarding effects of aging. IIRC is went something like this.

For the greatest neck tension, anneal, size, load, let sit 3 days and shoot.
For least neck tension, size, anneal, load and shoot same day.

I hope this helps.

I wonder how close the process is to lead casting and hardening

 

[oldduc]

When I have to buy another pot, I think I'll Cerekote the pot before using the first time to keep the corrosion at bay.

You don't really have to worry about corrosion with these salts unless over heated. The ingredients are essentially what used to be used for bluing gun barrels. The pot on my Lee melter has taken on a beautiful blue finish after being used for a while. The salts are hygroscopic, which means that they will absorb water out of the air, so you need to keep them in an air tight container. Otherwise they will collect moisture and melt and be covered with a thin syrupy mess, I've heard.... I've been shooting virgin brass for a while doing some fire forming and haven't been annealing (for 2 months). I recently checked the pot and found that I had left the shell holder in the pot with some hardened salt on and it had melted off and was a wet puddle in the bottom of the pot. Wiped it out with a paper towel and there was no corrosion at all.
Gary

 

[oldduc]

about everything you would need to know in this thread, and yes I am an electronics idiot. You otta see all of my burnt/pitted screw drivers and/or nips which encountered unexpected household electrical currents.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?49410-Pid-temp-control-finished-!!!

the only change or alteration I am doing is to add a circuit breaker type on/off switch found on the Auber site eliminating the need for a separate fuse. Or so me thinks....?

Man, that thing is waaaay overkill for the Lee melters. They are only 500 watts and don't require all that heavy duty stuff. I bought an Ink Bird PID controller and all the rest of the components off Amazon for less than $40 and it's all first class stuff.

 

[Rick300]

Man, that thing is waaaay overkill for the Lee melters. They are only 500 watts and don't require all that heavy duty stuff. I bought an Ink Bird PID controller and all the rest of the components off Amazon for less than $40 and it's all first class stuff.

Would you mind making a list of what you bought? Also, how easy is it to wire up?

 

[oldduc]

Would you mind making a list of what you bought? Also, how easy is it to wire up?

I'll track the parts list down and post it in a day or so.

 

[Texas10]

It's not the steel pot that is corroding, it's the aluminum case the pot is mounted to. And you're right about salt and humidity, I can't leave the salt in the pot, it just sucks moisture out of the air and turns into a slimy mess. I keep it in the original container, lid screwed on tight.

I may try high temp engine enamel instead of Cerekote.

 

[oley55]

need some help wiring the SSR for my PID controller. I bought the SSR from Auber electronics but it came without instructions and none can be found on the Auber site for their SSRs.

My attempt to post an image was unsuccessful. So here is a link to the SSR:
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=9

Terminals 3 and 4 are the low voltage inputs from the PID, while terminals 1 and 2 are 110 volt. Which terminal #1 or #2 is the line or voltage into the switch, leaving the other for voltage output to the heating element?

 

[oldduc]

need some help wiring the SSR for my PID controller. I bought the SSR from Auber electronics but it came without instructions and none can be found on the Auber site for their SSRs.

My attempt to post an image was unsuccessful. So here is a link to the SSR:
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=9

Terminals 3 and 4 are the low voltage inputs from the PID, while terminals 1 and 2 are 110 volt. Which terminal #1 or #2 is the line or voltage into the switch, leaving the other for voltage output to the heating element?

The line voltage is AC. It doesn't matter which terminal is which. It's just like a light switch on your wall, black wire in, black wire out. The white wire is not switched.

 

[oley55]

The line voltage is AC. It doesn't matter which terminal is which. It's just like a light switch on your wall, black wire in, black wire out. The white wire is not switched.

Thanks oldduc,

that makes it easy. another question while I have your ear. Thermocouple wire. I mounted a female K type plug on my box. Do I have to use specific K type thremocouple extension wire from the PID to the female connector or can I get by with a solid copper 24 AWG wire?

 

[MN50Shooter]

I'll track the parts list down and post it in a day or so.

I too, would like the parts list. Your idea seems a far faster, easier and cheaper way to get a better control of temps on the Lee pot. The inability to regulate the temp to my satisfaction, has been the only drawback in the Salt Bath Annealing, that I've discovered so far.

Thanks

 

[Webster]

I just started salt bath annealing and like the process quite a bit, particularly for the amount of money I have in it vs. how much temperature control there is.

Question to anyone doing this as well with the Lee pot.....how do you get that dang salt puck out after it cools. It shrinks some but not enough to come out, even with banging it upside down. Figured there is probably a good trick to get it out of there.

Thanks,
Don

While it's still molten try pouring it into a small cheap smooth sided 1 quart kitchen boiler pot. It might fall out when hard? How about pouring it on a concret floor. Then break it up into small pieces. Don't really know if it's a corrosion problem but if it was you might have to buy a new Lee pot after ten years? If you pour the salt out of the pot what remains is water soluble and can be washed out.

 

[oldduc]

Thanks oldduc,

that makes it easy. another question while I have your ear. Thermocouple wire. I mounted a female K type plug on my box. Do I have to use specific K type thremocouple extension wire from the PID to the female connector or can I get by with a solid copper 24 AWG wire?

I used just the plain copper wires, but they are only about 4" long. It probably effects the reading a little, but not much. My understanding is that it is important that both wire are the same length. You can check the accuracy by running the thermocouple wire directly to the PID and then through the connector and see if there is a significant difference.

 

[#40Fan]

When I made my PID controller, I bought the following.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087ZTN08/?tag=accuratescom-20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00899A4LY/?tag=accuratescom-20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JWIDCE/?tag=accuratescom-20

The PID controller needs modified because you really need a SNR (not RNR), but saving a few bucks and desoldering a relay was worth it.

I added a cheap wall outlet to my box and cut up a spare computer power cord to power everything.

 

[oldduc]

I'll track the parts list down and post it in a day or so.

Okay, these are the parts I used for the project in its current state. Bought them from Amazon.

1.) Inkbird Digital PID Temperature Controller Thermostat with Relay DIN 1/16 ITC-100VH with 25A SSR, K Sensor (ITC-100VH+25A SSR+ K sensor)

2.) BUD Industries CU-3285 Plastic Style A Utility Box, 8-1/4" Length x 5-9/64" Width x 3-7/64" Height, Black Texture Finish

3.) Journeyman-Pro 5279 15 Amp 120-125 Volt, NEMA 5-15 Flanged Outlet, Black Commercial Grade, 2 Pole-3 Wire, Straight Blade Plug Charger Receptacle

4.) Journeyman-Pro 5278 15 Amp 120-125 Volt, NEMA 5-15 Flanged Inlet, Black Commercial Grade, 2 Pole-3 Wire, Straight Blade Plug Charger Receptacle

5.) HITSAN Panel Mount K-type Thermocouple Miniature Socket Plug Connector One Piece

You can do this with just item #1, the PID controller and Solid State Relay (SSR). I drilled holes for the wires in a $2 Walmart plastic box and wired everything together with just the bare wires under the terminal screws. Looked very jury-rigged but worked. I tried it that way at first as a sort of proof of concept. I then bought the other items and built a nice looking portable unit that everything plugs into. You can use less expensive parts but you might need a larger box. Also, the thermocouple, K type sensor, that come with the PID I listed is only good for 400C which is not hot enough. I already had the Ballistic Recreations salt kit and I used the thermocouple that came with it. Make sure that whichever sensor you use is rated to sense more than 500C temps.

The PID controller can switch low amp loads internally, but you need the relay to handle the load of a melting pot. You can buy the SSR, separately, with a heat sink. I didn't use one, and so far, I haven't melted the plastic box I am using, YMMV.

 

[L W P]

Wasn't that bad once I put my mind to it.

Great idea. I know it's an old post , but credit due. Nice