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Sako 244 Ackley l57 to rebore to a 6.5x55??

I have my fathers Sako l57 in 244ackley with a 19 1/2 bull sako barrel. He had it cut after a stroke left one arm weak. It’s been threw some other brothers in the family and seems the barrel might be loose after many years of hand loads. It’s got some other issues that it doesn’t feed the shell out of the mag on one side. I think it might have a burr or something holding up the shell from sliding into the barrel. After deer season I’ll look it over. Also the safety can just jump to fire if bolt is tapped. I’ve soaked the bolt in cleaner that made smoother but still jumps out. But the barrel is my first question in that if it does check out with a gun smith to be cooked would that Swedish 6.5x55 be a great fit to rebore. The 6.5x55 and the 244/6mm Ackley or almost identical side by side. What do you guys think?
 
First priority should be the safety jumping to fire. Have it repaired or replaced by a competent gunsmith. Then have the feeding repaired. The barrel is short for the best efficiency in most cartridges and I would probably just replace it with a 6.5 barrel if that is the caliber you want. You can then chamber in your choice of cartridges. You have many good ones to choose
from.
 
It would seem that there are more problems with the rifle that could answered here....but I suggest getting a smith to sort out the action - is it cost effective to get fixed? As a family piece, probably.

Dont rebore the barrel. It's too short for any of the cartridges - and I suspect that it would have to be rebored to greater than 6.5 for a successful job. ( some expert knowledge needed here!)

Given that it will still be short - something like 7-08 might be a better bet than a long cartridge.

However - I would re -barrel it with say 22-24in and your choice of calibre rather than any compromise.
 
No I meant to change the original barrel to a different caliber. Rebore it to a 6.5?

Not counting the repairs to make the rifle safe, the 244 Ackley is likely around .460 - .465" at the point of shoulder. The 6.5x55 is approx. .030" less at the same location. This will give you a backwards step in the chamber. I guess an improved 6.5x55 might be possible.

I'm also pretty sure that the .243 to .264" increase -.0105" per side- may be too small of an increase to accurately drill, ream, & rifle to get fresh metal the full length of the bore.
 
seems the barrel might be loose after many years of hand loads.
it doesn’t feed the shell out of the mag on one side
Also the safety can just jump to fire if bolt is tapped
But the barrel is my first question in that if it does check out with a gun smith to be cooked would that Swedish 6.5x55 be a great fit to rebore.

If by loose you mean the barrel can be moved in the threads, STOP! Go to your gunsmith to start repairs. Otherwise you're not being clear about this.

The safety needs to be fixed right away, no question.

The feed rails and a possible burr can be attended to at the same time.

The standard Swede will not clean up the .244 AI. The 6.5 Swede Improved will. BUT, the magazine in your rifle will determine if the 6.5 will work at the OAL of the 6.5 cartridge which it might not. I don't have one to measure so it's up to you.

I'm also pretty sure that the .243 to .264" increase -.0105" per side- may be too small of an increase to accurately drill, ream, & rifle to get fresh metal the full length of the bore.

You are only reaming from 0.243 (bottom of 6mm groove) to 0.256 (top of the lands 6.5mm) no drilling required. That's 0.013" total or 0.0065" per side pulling one reamer. Once reamed you have the 0.256" bore or the top of the new lands for the 6.5mm. Cut rifling down to 0.264", lap, cut the new chamber. Remember that one inch has to be removed from the muzzle also. You are left with an 18-1/2" barrel.

My opinion based on the use of the rifle and the short barrel is to replace the barrel and enjoy yourself!
 
You are only reaming from 0.243 (bottom of 6mm groove) to 0.256 (top of the lands 6.5mm) no drilling required. That's 0.013" total or 0.0065" per side pulling one reamer. Once reamed you have the 0.256" bore or the top of the new lands for the 6.5mm. Cut rifling down to 0.264", lap, cut the new chamber. Remember that one inch has to be removed from the muzzle also. You are left with an 18-1/2" barrel.
What about if the barrel is "cooked" as the OP states it may be. Will your method clean up the 2 or 3 inches in front of the chamber where this stuff happens down to new metal? I really dont know but am skeptical.

Agreed about replacement is the best option.

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1636853968421.jpeg
 
It's not my method. It's a standard procedure used by the last of the 3 or 4 of the reboring gunsmiths. And yes, in most situation it cleans up the damage. This is how it's been done for 100 years.

If you doubt the technique, call any of the few reboring gunsmiths still working and discuss it with them.

Best.
 

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