Ruger Number One Gunsmith
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GPat
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I've used Mark Penrod (Penrod Precision) for A LOT of rifle builds and rebarrels over the years and his work is top notch. I've personally never owned a Ruger #1, but I know for a fact that Mark does work on them quite often and I've seen photos of several of these rifles through the many stages of working on them.
Give him a call you won't be disappointed : 260-982-8385
Pat
Give him a call you won't be disappointed : 260-982-8385
Pat
In the process of a NO 1 rebarrel idea for a wildcat myself and spent a bit of time contacting those having such.
On this page:
http://www.realguns.com/archives/048a.htm
if you scroll down you will find the address of the one many are recommending and barring any unforeseen problems is the one I will be using.
There is some feedback in the article from Joe the owner of the Real Guns website about his experience with such.
God bless
Steve
On this page:
http://www.realguns.com/archives/048a.htm
if you scroll down you will find the address of the one many are recommending and barring any unforeseen problems is the one I will be using.
There is some feedback in the article from Joe the owner of the Real Guns website about his experience with such.
God bless
Steve
Mark Penrod has rebarreled four Rugers for me. Mine are heavy barrel bench varmint rifles, but he does all types and is very good with the triggers. Here is more contact info for him.
Mark Penrod
312 East College Ave.
North Manchester, In. 46962
e-mail: markpenrod@kconline.com
(260)982-8385
Dave
Mark Penrod
312 East College Ave.
North Manchester, In. 46962
e-mail: markpenrod@kconline.com
(260)982-8385
Dave
Thanks to all for the replies. I have spoken with Mark and will most likely have him work on the Number One I just bought. I'd like to have him install a vernier tang safety and compatible globe front sight on the 45-70.
I'm curious, for those of you who've had varmint rifles built on the Number One, what sort of repeatable accuracy are you getting? I'm sure the Number One can deliver an occasional sub 1/2 minute group but can it do it repeatedly?
I'm curious, for those of you who've had varmint rifles built on the Number One, what sort of repeatable accuracy are you getting? I'm sure the Number One can deliver an occasional sub 1/2 minute group but can it do it repeatedly?
I would say yes they can. Of course thats after you find a good load and conditions are condusive to good groups. The two groups in this pic are from the first rebarrel that Mark did for me. Shilen #7 14" twist .224 chambered for my .219DW PDK wildcat. It uses a 30-30 case shortened to 1.900 with a 35 degree shoulder and holds about 35 grains of varget or N140. For ultimate accuracy a PPC or BR case would probably be better, but I like 30-30 cases so that's what I use. The right group is the best that I've ever shot with a No.1 and the left group is more typical of what it would shoot consistantly with good conditions. All my group shooting is done off a Harris bipod and rear sand bag because that's the way I shoot PD's. My No.3 with the Shilen #7HV 8" twist barrel in the same chambering is my first fast twist barrel. I'm shooting 75gr A-max with 34.0gr H4350 and getting groups in the .4's at 3200fps. It has really extended my shooting range with many hits past 500 and a best last June in Montana of 915. The other No.1 and No.3 are my .204 Wasp wildcat. Both the Krieger and the Pac-nor barrels are 11" twist and both like the 39gr SBK. Both shoot consistantly in the .4's with several groups in the .3's at 4000 fps.
Dave
Dave
Dave,
Have you any idea of the heaviest barrel a No. 1 would handle? I have a HV profile on mine and the gunsmith had to turn it down a fraction to clear the hanger arm underneath, then its a straight taper to 26", but I've wondered if it's marginal on such a small tenon. I guess the old Sharps and Rolling Blocks had long heavy barrels, albeit with a big hole down the middle!
Richard
Have you any idea of the heaviest barrel a No. 1 would handle? I have a HV profile on mine and the gunsmith had to turn it down a fraction to clear the hanger arm underneath, then its a straight taper to 26", but I've wondered if it's marginal on such a small tenon. I guess the old Sharps and Rolling Blocks had long heavy barrels, albeit with a big hole down the middle!
Richard
Richard,
The Shilen #7HV is the heaviest barrel that I've used. I don't remember reading about anyone using a heavier barrel on any of the forums that I visit, but I'm sure someone has. The #18 Krieger and the Pac-nor Target Weight are 1.200 dia. for 5" and mark turns the #7 Shilens down to 1.200 dia. I use two #85 Weaver bases about 3.31" apart. The weight of the rifle would bend the forearm hanger to touch the barrel, so Mark heats the hanger and bends it down about .040-.050.
If I ever decide to rebarrel to a cartridge that has more recoil, I will probably go back to a .875 dia and use a brake rather than a heavier barrel. I have a Vais brake on the shelf that was on another rifle and it works very well.
Not a very good pic, but you can see how much clearance there is between the hanger and the 1.200 dia barrel.
I've always made plenty of clearance between the forend and the barrel. About a year ago I decided to try a pad in the forend. I tried silicone caulk since I had it on hand and it would be easy to remove if it didn't work.
After a couple of range tests where I found that three of the rifles liked the screw only light tension and the other shot better the more I tightened it. The groups aren't any better than before, but seem to be more consistently good. I was down most of last summer after knee surgery and didn't get to test as much as I wanted. I did wait until after my Montana PD trip to have surgery.
Dave
The Shilen #7HV is the heaviest barrel that I've used. I don't remember reading about anyone using a heavier barrel on any of the forums that I visit, but I'm sure someone has. The #18 Krieger and the Pac-nor Target Weight are 1.200 dia. for 5" and mark turns the #7 Shilens down to 1.200 dia. I use two #85 Weaver bases about 3.31" apart. The weight of the rifle would bend the forearm hanger to touch the barrel, so Mark heats the hanger and bends it down about .040-.050.
If I ever decide to rebarrel to a cartridge that has more recoil, I will probably go back to a .875 dia and use a brake rather than a heavier barrel. I have a Vais brake on the shelf that was on another rifle and it works very well.
Not a very good pic, but you can see how much clearance there is between the hanger and the 1.200 dia barrel.
I've always made plenty of clearance between the forend and the barrel. About a year ago I decided to try a pad in the forend. I tried silicone caulk since I had it on hand and it would be easy to remove if it didn't work.
After a couple of range tests where I found that three of the rifles liked the screw only light tension and the other shot better the more I tightened it. The groups aren't any better than before, but seem to be more consistently good. I was down most of last summer after knee surgery and didn't get to test as much as I wanted. I did wait until after my Montana PD trip to have surgery.
Dave
Dave,
Thanks for that information. I had never thought about bending the hanger out of the way and neither had the gunsmith that fitted the barrel. It's turned down from 1.150 at the receiver to 1.080 leaving literally ten thou clearance at the front section of the hanger where the screw goes. It then tapers to .900 at the muzzle. I bedded the forend onto the hanger and also the front of the receiver so it doesn't touch the barrel anywhere but has around .050 clearance. It's not stock but a 2.7" wide custom item, the grain of which matches the butt quite nicely. Do you find the radius of the #85 base matches the 1.2" barrel accurately, or do they need bedding?
Richard.
Thanks for that information. I had never thought about bending the hanger out of the way and neither had the gunsmith that fitted the barrel. It's turned down from 1.150 at the receiver to 1.080 leaving literally ten thou clearance at the front section of the hanger where the screw goes. It then tapers to .900 at the muzzle. I bedded the forend onto the hanger and also the front of the receiver so it doesn't touch the barrel anywhere but has around .050 clearance. It's not stock but a 2.7" wide custom item, the grain of which matches the butt quite nicely. Do you find the radius of the #85 base matches the 1.2" barrel accurately, or do they need bedding?
Richard.
Richard,
I've never felt like they needed to be bedded, although it might help. With the slightly larger 1.200 dia. than the 1.155 dia. that the were made for they should touch on the outside edges with a slight gap in the middle. Even if the screws don't pull them down, they shouldn't have any rocking movement.
Back in the mid 90's I had a #3 rebarreled to .219 Wasp by another gunsmith. He turned down the Shilen #7 barrel to 1.160 but didn't know to bend the hanger. There was about .015 clearance between hanger and barrel until you put the weight of the rifle on the forend, then it bent and touched the barrel. I stuck a piece of thin cardboard between hanger and barrel and it shot great. The load on the left with 50gr NBT shot great for about 3000 rounds. After the throat was gone , it shot the 55gr V-max fairly well until I rebarreled it to .204 Wasp after 6000 rounds.
Dave
I've never felt like they needed to be bedded, although it might help. With the slightly larger 1.200 dia. than the 1.155 dia. that the were made for they should touch on the outside edges with a slight gap in the middle. Even if the screws don't pull them down, they shouldn't have any rocking movement.
Back in the mid 90's I had a #3 rebarreled to .219 Wasp by another gunsmith. He turned down the Shilen #7 barrel to 1.160 but didn't know to bend the hanger. There was about .015 clearance between hanger and barrel until you put the weight of the rifle on the forend, then it bent and touched the barrel. I stuck a piece of thin cardboard between hanger and barrel and it shot great. The load on the left with 50gr NBT shot great for about 3000 rounds. After the throat was gone , it shot the 55gr V-max fairly well until I rebarreled it to .204 Wasp after 6000 rounds.
Dave
Dave,
I'll keep a note of that Weaver base in case I go back to a modern scope set up with this or the next barrel as they'll be perfect for a 1.150 diameter. I currently use a Redfield 3200 24x on the old style barrel blocks but with a set of Burris Signature rimfire rings, with a hidden stud hard up against a hole in the block in case the rings try to slide forward during recoil, although its only chambered for the 6.5 Grendel round, so maybe a bit overkill.
Thanks again for the info.
Richard.
I'll keep a note of that Weaver base in case I go back to a modern scope set up with this or the next barrel as they'll be perfect for a 1.150 diameter. I currently use a Redfield 3200 24x on the old style barrel blocks but with a set of Burris Signature rimfire rings, with a hidden stud hard up against a hole in the block in case the rings try to slide forward during recoil, although its only chambered for the 6.5 Grendel round, so maybe a bit overkill.
Thanks again for the info.
Richard.
I saw my name listed here as a gunsmith for Ruger #1's, but email address is incorrect.
Mark Penrod
Penrod Precision
312 E. College Ave.
North Manchester, IN 46962
260-982-8385
mark@penrodprecision.com
markpenrod1955@gmail.com
Mark Penrod
Penrod Precision
312 E. College Ave.
North Manchester, IN 46962
260-982-8385
mark@penrodprecision.com
markpenrod1955@gmail.com
dave@aDave
Gold $$ Contributor
Mark Penrod is the guy you want
Mr. Penrod has done 5 #1s for me, and an 1885 WIn. Won't even think of going to anyone else.
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