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Ruger No.1 and the Hicks Accurizer

Glad it worked. Now it's just a matter of which option you choose. All boils down to what works best for your purposes. Good shooting and stay safe.
you seem to know alot about #1's,,I don't,but the info helps me,,Capt. Dan
 
you seem to know alot about #1's,,I don't,but the info helps me,,Capt. Dan
Glad it helps. Ruger #1s (particularly the "B" versions with the 26" barrels) have been a special interest of mine for years. My .280 Remington 1B has been my favorite whitetail rifle for a very long time. Just something about the actions and machining I find especially appealing. I have tinkered with quite a few and restocked several since 1976 when I got my first one. Not a pro by any means, just an enthusiast that likes to do my own work when possible. I must be quick to add that I also have (and have had over the years) plenty of bolt rifles and would be quick to turn to them for serious precision work. They are just easier to get results and are a bit more forgiving when it comes to accuracy.
 
With all the plastic stocks and the tacti-cool rifles, the No. 1's just add a touch of class. I too have several of bolt guns, some in composite stocks and some in walnut.There' just something about the No 1's that set them apart from the rest. When they shoot good, its even better. My gunsmith buddy has two, one is a 38x55 and the other is a 9.3x74 (I think). Its a cannon but man does it shoot good.
 
:D That's me, green with envy if it is a 9.3x74R. Never could find one and now have no real need...as if that ever stopped me!
 
He shot a big doe with it this year. She never knew what hit her. Its a beast. He always makes me shoot it when he brings it to the club. Kicks like a Georgia mule but its fun......if you don't mind the recoil. About 2-3 shots and I'm done!!
 
I put a piece of rubber between the hanger bar and the barrel. It seemed to help take out the vertical in my groups. Today I tried different powder and different bullets. IMR4350 and 80 grain Sierra Blitz. Four three shot groups at 100 yards, all under an inch and two groups under a half inch. My Hick's accurizer will be here Friday but I don't think I'll be needing it. Guess I should have waited.
 
You will know more once you settle on a load combo. Each one may react a little differently as to vibration created. Until then, further adjustments are like chasing ghosts.
Glad to hear you are having success!
 
I received the accurizer today and after looking at it, it seems like a considerable amount of wood needs to be removed from the fore-end. I'm not sure I like that idea.If my Blitz load seems to be a consistant accurate load, I may just leave well enough alone. Its plenty of bullet to harvest whitetail deer or a coyote or most other game I might hunt with it.
 
I have a 1976 Ruger No. 1B in 7 mm Rem Mag. Gorgeous gun. Had wide groups. Had a gunsmith add the Hicks and glass bed under it. Fore end is now free floated. One trip to the range and after adding tension with the Hicks Accurizer I hit 6 bulls eyes out of my last 7 shots at 100 yards off a bench rest. Let the barrel cool between shots a bit. Taking it out this weekend to see if it was a fluke or if the Hicks really works. This gun never shot that tight before. Previously was 2" groups. So far, I am a believer. I'll try to post next week if I can repeat the tight groups.
 
I have a 1976 Ruger No. 1B in 7 mm Rem Mag. Gorgeous gun. Had wide groups. Had a gunsmith add the Hicks and glass bed under it. Fore end is now free floated. One trip to the range and after adding tension with the Hicks Accurizer I hit 6 bulls eyes out of my last 7 shots at 100 yards off a bench rest. Let the barrel cool between shots a bit. Taking it out this weekend to see if it was a fluke or if the Hicks really works. This gun never shot that tight before. Previously was 2" groups. So far, I am a believer. I'll try to post next week if I can repeat the tight groups.
 
I took it out again. Not a fluke. The Hicks worked for me. I still am thinking about adding a bit of radiator hose between the barrel and hanger bar. Seems like a good idea to dampen vibrations between these two. Love this gun.
 
Just a FYI. Mine is a #1B in 7mm mag. My barrel coppers up pretty bad. After a good cleaning, it usually takes 5 or 6 rounds to get it back to normal. 1/2" three shots at 100yds when I do my part.
 
It is a lot easier to simply remove the 'bump' pressure point at the end of the forearm, glass bed the tip of the hanger and the rear of the forearm where it engages the receiver. Make sure no part of the forearm touches the barrel ahead of the receiver - in other words, just free float the barrel and work up a load for it. I have had three and it has worked on every one.
One word of caution - the barrels made before the early 90s were a bit rough to say the least. After that they are all hammer forged. I lapped one from that era and it helped immensely.
What watercam says. I've relieved the forearm and floated the barrel. I have however used the Hicks Accurizer because it gives a bit more bedding surface and of course it has the screw pressure adjustment. I've replace the factory trigger with a Moyers adjustable and that always helps as those factory triggers at 6lbs or more are not the best!
 

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