Ruger No.1 and the Hicks Accurizer

[Pyscodog]

I recently bought a Ruger No. ! in 6 Remington. I haven't even started any load work yet and have only shot 10 rounds of factory ammo through it. Now I have acquired brass and dies so reloading will start soon but I have read about the Hicks Accurizer and was curious as to what people that have used them think about them. Yae or Nae?? $60 is pretty reasonable to make a rifle shoot better. So, if you have an opinion, let me hear about it.Thanks!!

 

[SSL]

Don't get too anxious for one unless you find that you need it. In theory, it helps eliminate the vertical stringing some #1s can be prone to. It is caused be the vibration of the hanger arm under the forearm. Not as many #1s have this problem as one would be led to believe. If this is a problem with your particular rifle, a simple metal shim placed between the barrel and hanger arm thick enough to place pressure on the arm usually solves the problem at just a few cents. I have had more Ruger #1 rifles over the years than I can remember. Some needed attention, many didn't . The hanger can be sprung away from the barrel easily for shim placement with a large flat blade screwdriver, making sure to wrap the blade with tape to protect the finish. May take a few tries to find the ideal shim thickness, but easy to do without altering your rifle or forearm. If using bags, be sure to support the forearm as close to the receiver as possible to prevent springing the forearm into contact with the barrel even if the shim isn't needed.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Don't get too anxious for one unless you find that you need it. In theory, it helps eliminate the vertical stringing some #1s can be prone to. It is caused be the vibration of the hanger arm under the forearm. Not as many #1s have this problem as one would be led to believe. If this is a problem with your particular rifle, a simple metal shim placed between the barrel and hanger arm thick enough to place pressure on the arm usually solves the problem at just a few cents. I have had more Ruger #1 rifles over the years than I can remember. Some needed attention, many didn't . The hanger can be sprung away from the barrel easily for shim placement with a large flat blade screwdriver, making sure to wrap the blade with tape to protect the finish. May take a few tries to find the ideal shim thickness, but easy to do without altering your rifle or forearm. If using bags, be sure to support the forearm as close to the receiver as possible to prevent springing the forearm into contact with the barrel even if the shim isn't needed.

Do you have a picture of this? Im having a tough time seeing this in my mind and would like to learn

 

[SSL]

Let me see what I can find. The only three I have right now didn't need the shims, so I'll have to check for my old pictures. In the mean time, remove the forearm and you will see a bar extending forward from the receiver. This is the "hanger" and provides for main and ejector spring anchoring as well as forearm support. You will see a space running between the hanger and the barrel. Your selected shim will go in this space close to the front tip of the hanger. A large screwdriver can easily spring the hanger a bit further from the barrel to allow insertion of the shim and then spring back to securely trap it. Start with a size thick enough to be securely held, but only as wide as the hanger (this keeps you from having to relieve the hanger inletting in your forearm.) Shoot a few strings and use a thicker shim if needed. I had a .30-06 that I actually used a small piece of automotive heater hose rather than a metal shim to just dampen vibrations...it worked great.
This method also "floats" the barrel in the forearm somewhat without having to remove material. Excessive upward pressure on the tip of the forearm can cause barrel contact. As is common with two-piece stocks, shooting with a tight sling can affect point of impact to a considerable degree.

And don't let anyone tell you that those #1s can't shoot!


CAUTION...be very careful not to lose the piece out of the hanger for the forearm screw.

 

[Pyscodog]

Looks like I have a lot to learn about the No. 1's. Do you happen to know when Ruger changed from a 3 screw trigger to a two screw trigger? Mines a 77-78 model.I haven't removed the stock to look yet.

 

[V509]

If you can drill a hole and tap it you don’t have to spend the $60
Rifle magazine had an article on NO1 accurizing and showed how
I scanned it somewhere

 

[SSL]

If you can drill a hole and tap it you don’t have to spend the $60
Rifle magazine had an article on NO1 accurizing and showed how
I scanned it somewhere

That is true. I forgot to mention that. I opted for my way so as to not have to permanently modify the rifles. Reports are that it works well too. Thanks for giving the OP an additional choice.

 

[V509]

Found the article
Here is a pic

 

[Pyscodog]

Thanks for the helpful photos. They answered several questions I had running around my head. What size screw is that? Looks about like an 1/8, maybe larger??

 

[V509]

The article says the screw is 6-32 by 1/2

 

[watercam]

It is a lot easier to simply remove the 'bump' pressure point at the end of the forearm, glass bed the tip of the hanger and the rear of the forearm where it engages the receiver. Make sure no part of the forearm touches the barrel ahead of the receiver - in other words, just free float the barrel and work up a load for it. I have had three and it has worked on every one.
One word of caution - the barrels made before the early 90s were a bit rough to say the least. After that they are all hammer forged. I lapped one from that era and it helped immensely.

 

[SSL]

The article says the screw is 6-32 by 1/2

Also note the small metal pad (best seen in photo 1) that goes between the hanger and the barrel to help prevent damage to the barrel. This method offers the convenience of allowing for a large range of fine adjustment.

 

[Pyscodog]

I have my dies and brass but a friend gave me 20 rounds he had loaded. Very mild loads with 65 grain V-Max. The first three shots, (this morning, clean cold barrel) were about three inchs low of the bull but centered. Shot 4 went about an inch lower and shot 5 was an inch high of the first three shots. So basically a three inch group. Most definitely vertical stringing. I was allowing the barrel a little time to cool after the first three shots. It heats up pretty quick. After a cool down period, I shot 5 more. Shots 1&3 were almost touching but 2,4,5 were 1 1/2inchs low but was under an inch. The rifle seems to want to shoot and I have no plans on shooting this light of bullet. I'm planning on something in the 80-90 grain pill. Should I shoot some of them before worrying about the pressure screw?

 

[SSL]

Each load/bullet weight sets up different conditions. I would develop a load that I planned to use and then see about modifications. Not sure I would depend on such a small sampling of groups to make the decision. Since it sounds like this is a used rifle, I would also definitely consider a very thorough cleaning with a de-coppering agent. I never trust how well someone else cleans!

 

[Pyscodog]

Oh it got cleaned real good before ever going to the range. I used Wipe-out and cleaned the poo-poo out of it. Actually was pretty clean, never pulled any dark blue patchs. Been cleaned twice more since and I plan to scrub it again after the ten rounds I fired today. I hate putting a rifle up dirty. I maybe clean to much.

 

[SSL]

Good. My point is that shot spreads like you see may well be an incompatible load. Even when working up loads it isn't unusual to see stringing in loads that haven't found the node or sweet spot. Before worrying a lot about modifications, see if a load can be developed that starts to give you clean groups. If it turns out that even your best loads show a tendency to string, it's time to try mechanical options. Good luck and keep is posted.

 

[Pyscodog]

You guys have been great with the information. I just finished loading 10 rounds with 80 grain Noslers and 38 grains of IMR 4064, I am starting .010 off the lands. I hate to jam bullets on a hunting rifle. Gonna do a trigger job next week....I hope. Its got a 4 pound trigger in it now. kinda heavy. Thanks again!!


I still have ten rounds left of the 65 grain V-Max rounds left. I found some very stiff rubber and made a shim to go under the hanger bar. Just for grins, I'm gonna make another trip to the range and see if the rubber shim makes any difference in group size.

 

[Pyscodog]

Well the shim definitely helped the groups.It cut the vertical stringing way down. I may order the Hicks just for the ease of being able to tune without removing the stock.

 

[SSL]

Glad it worked. Now it's just a matter of which option you choose. All boils down to what works best for your purposes. Good shooting and stay safe.

 

[Pyscodog]

I realize its really to soon to decide which way to go on a fix for the vertical stringing but its also confusing when your rounds are in a 3 inch "gathering". Hard for me to tell if its a good load or not. Today my loads at least resembled a group. I still need trigger work and I'm having eye relief scope issues that need fixed but I'm working around that for now. I'm gonna load another batch of the same 80 grain Noslers and play with seating depth and see how/if that changes group size.