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Ruger 10/22

I don’t know what a barreled action from KIDD is today, but when I did mine stock and all I was right at $1200. That was right at what my buddy had in his at the time, that didn’t include all of the extras he tried and didn’t get any results worth the $.

I have several rigs still that I did a one piece at a time, they were budget builds I didn’t have the funds for then. Most are ugly as sin, lol.

Buddy loaned me a PCP air rig he put together some years back. Will shoot slugs and pellets. It looks like Frankenstein but will average with rigs in the $2-4000 range. He spent a lot of time tinkering with it and swapping components. He will not talk about what kind of money he has in it over all. It makes his Panthera and a couple of Impacts look ill.

My KIDD will be the last .22 powder burner I ever spend money on. I have been bitten by the AIR bug and there is no turning back. My 22RF struggle to group as well as my PCP’s with a lot less headaches.
I’ve been through a lot of good RF rifles, currently shooting a Stiller built UL ARA rifle. I did the PCP thing for a while, only comp. around me was 10m. The tank and compressor thing was a pain. Good luck with it though. This rifle I’m building now is just for fun. If it shoots like Don’s (Rimfire SS) I’ll be happy
 
I took my new to me rifle out of the stock last night just to see what was there. I was pretty impressed with the Bell&Carlson stock and how tight it fit to the action. I had just a small amount and we are talking very very small of back and forth movement. Instead of bedding, I used 2 small strips of aluminum tape at the rear of the action and it completely took all the movement away. Its very solid in the stock now. What I did notice is the trigger assembly. It has a brand name on it and its not Ruger. So, do Ruger triggers say Ruger on them or possibly something else. I'll have to remove it from the stock to look again but the writing is very hard to make out the letters. Maybe I can get a good picture and post it.

Here's a picture of the trigger group and a recent target shot at 50yds. My old eyes can't really make out the name on the trigger. Maybe some of you might recognize it. Ammo is Norma Match. Its seems to shoot it really well so I ordered a brick. Haven't tried my SK or CCI yet. Maybe if I get a day without honey do's and no wind I'll try the other ammo.
 

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You can get, a crisp, 2 to 2.25 lb Trigger Pull from, a Volquartsen Trigger Kit,.. IF you know How to, Do Trigger stoning & spring, "Work" for about, $35 or, so ( IIRC ).
Green Mtn. SS, 20" Barrel for, $130 ish, ( Sold My old Ruger SS Bbl for, $107.00 )
Installed, a 4.5X - 14X Burris MOA Scope ( W gridded, Hash Marks, baby !! ) Misc Volquart Bolt Parts and EVERYTHING, including, the orig, SS, 10-22, Rifle,. I have somewhere around $750 Total for an Awesome,. Hunting Rifle that shoots, the Mid-Priced Wolf and SK Ammo in, the 3's and 4's at, 50 Yds.
Rifle shoots, Winch and CCI Mini Mag, H-P's around, the 1/2" to 5/8th inch, group size @ 50.
This Rifle, makes Sage Rats Dead out to, 85 yards ( W rifle rested over, a Rock ).
It's NOT, Match Competitive, BUT for Hunting,.. Squirrels and Rabbits,. Oh, my !
 
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I did some research and my trigger may just be an older factory Ruger trigger that's been polished up a little.
 
The writing on your trigger housing indicates to me it's not an original Ruger trigger. Try taking a piece of paper over the writing and rub it with a pencil. The pencil led will come off on the high spots and make it more readable. You can then google the name and see what you get or post it here.
 
I went to rimfire central and there was a post on the 10/22 trigger. A guy posted a picture of a trigger just like mine. The only difference was mine has a 3 on it and his had a 1. They talked like it was just on older trigger with a metal housing.
 
Kidd trigger kit worked great on my older metal trigger. 1.75 lbs on a lyman digital gauge.

10\22 is a money pit. I don't even know how much I have in mine. I have lost all interest in .22lr. I let girls and new shooters play with it and thats about it.

DSC_0246.JPG
 
I might go for the Kidd trigger kit. I just hate paying close to $300 for a 1/4 lb lighter trigger than I have now. I wish I wasn't such a trigger snob. I just hate heavy triggers.

I got lucky on mine. The guy that built it spent the big bucks. I got it for less than the stock and barrel.
 
With, a "Good" Barrel, Scope and, a descent, 2 lb Trigger, the 10-22 IS, a Whole Nother,.. "Animal" !
For the $750 ish Total that, I Paid for Mine ( Rifle, Barrel, Scope, Trig. Parts, etc. ) I have, NO "Regrets" and, this Rifle, would Be in, My Top 5,. SHTF Guns, as you can Pack, a Chit Ton of Ammo with, you If,. Necessary !
Sometimes, I get Tired of Reloading Ammo and, I can Have serious Fun, out to 100 yds or, So,..
. WITHOUT,.. Reloading, for It !
PS; the US Dollar is, "Close" to, Worthless, anyway, so $750 / $800. for, a NICE Rifle, is almost,..
"Pocket Change",.. Today.
 
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That was my dilemma. I want a single stage trigger but it's 1.5lb
The two stage is lighter, ( 3oz ) but it's a two stage and higher priced. ( Really $350 )
The lighter pull weight was my high priority, so I figure I can get uses to a two stage easier.
I'm not the handiest at putting in springs, so a drop-in is nice.
It's on a 22lr not one of my bench guns.
Happy with it so far other than the price. 1/3 of the rifle.
 
It was a complete trigger, the single stage. The 2 stage is another $100 on top. Haven't bought either as of yet.
For the money the kit is what I would get if you want a single stage. I have 2 and honestly they are almost too light for me. I bought the spring kit also and the springs are for a heavier pull. Either way you will be happy . I’m pretty sure when you buy the kit you get to pick what weight spring you want
 
Has anyone with the 2 stage tried to reduce the first stage travel. I know some 2 stage triggers can have the first stage adjusted out.
 
The travel on the first stage ( 3oz-3 ) isn't that much and you can get used to it.
It's so light and short, you have to be really concentrating to notice it.
I shoot 2oz Jewells and I do notice the travel. Just have to get use to it.
Not a deal breaker.

You can call KIDD and ask if the travel can be reduced
 
The travel on the first stage ( 3oz-3 ) isn't that much and you can get used to it.
It's so light and short, you have to be really concentrating to notice it.
I shoot 2oz Jewells and I do notice the travel. Just have to get use to it.
Not a deal breaker.

You can call KIDD and ask if the travel can be reduced
Thanks for that info. I have a BnA in my other rifle 1.5oz.
 
RabbitSlayer said 10/22's are money pits. LOL, aren't all nice guns? But....I agree with him. Rimfire accessories are expensive, maybe more than centerfire, which leads me to a question. I know (talking 10/22) accuracy comes from a good barrel, stock and trigger, as well as ammo. But then there is a custom action, bolt and a few other internal parts. Does a Kidd bolt make a difference or is it just an added expense that really won't make a lot of difference over a factory bolt? (Talking for the casual shooter not BR.) I know for the competitive shooter you need every little bit of an accuracy advantage you can get but on a club level, buddy match, when is enough enough?
 
The bolt sets the headspace which is determined by the rim thickness of the shell
Factory Ruger bolts are anywhere from .005” to .015”to deep and that can affect accuracy and cause fliers. A reworked or new bolt will help your accuracy
 

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