I hate to tell you this but you need the best shooting ammo to tune with. best being what your rifle can shoot consistently. if you do it the way you are talking about, you will wear out the threads from all the adjustments you will be making.Being new to a tuner, I need an answer. After tuning , using cheap Ammo , will I need to keep adjusting to different settings each time I decide to change ammo? I really don’t want to “waste” match Ammo while in the initial tuner set up. Thanks for the help.
Topwater, if you want the best out of the rifle you will need to see what ammo it likes best. buying by cost alone will not get you what you want. higher cost on the better match ammo means better quality, but not consistency. only with lot testing will you find the consistency.I recently purchased a variety of ammo try. The lower end stuff was just over $5/box. The highest was almost $18/box. I have been shooting red box SK with decent success but it is pricey now as well. I have several bricks of Aguila that I was hoping to use to set up this tuner. When I bought those cases, the price was really low. .............so far I’ve tried a box of Eley Club and a box of Eley Target neither of which impressed me, especially with the two misfires in the “ Target “. The next step up is Black box Eley. ......... Another question: If I find a brand and lot number that will pretty consistently print a five shot group at 50 yds. that measures 1/2” outside, is that the best that I should expect ? Thanks for the input.
CB=Cold bore flier. which that wasn't the case, the firing pin spring had to be changed and the bolt had to be what I called blue printed, so the firing pin has free movement. surprisingly after years of use the pin guides will wear in and if you take apart the firing pin assembly and don't put it back it can bind and cause ignition problems.Lee, on your "tuning session" image what does "CB" mean?
Topwater, If you are confident on the tuner setting for your rifle leave it on. confident meaning it can repeat groups size consistently. doesn't have to be sub-.200 but it does need to be consistent.Hey, thanks guys. It’s ironic that you both mentioned the testing. My buddy got a Bergera 14 from Santa. He wants us to take our rifles to the Lapua test site in Ohio. It would probably involve an overnight stay but may be well worth the effort. If we do, should I remove my tuner before they test it ?
Can you give an estimate as to what the numerical value increments of 5 mean in measured movement? Do you think 5 is .005 of movement for instance or do you think its more like .020.Topwater, if you want the best out of the rifle you will need to see what ammo it likes best. buying by cost alone will not get you what you want. higher cost on the better match ammo means better quality, but not consistency. only with lot testing will you find the consistency.
if 1/2" oto is with a tuner, more then likely there are mechanical issues with the rifle, if the groups were shot with ammo the rifle shoots best with. notice I keep saying shoots best with, as you can't make it shoot best with ammo that just can't shoot at all.
here is an example, the rifle that shot this tuner target is a factory Anschutz that is 45-years old. without a tuner it can shoot sub-.200 groups, but not consistently. after it was tuned and was tested at Lapua's Mesa tunnel it shot a 11.86mm 10-shot group oto that is 0.466 for 10 shots not 5
also I used 58 rds. to find that 85 setting. each group is 3-shots and the tuner was moved out 5-clicks at a time. this was 2 years and 11-days ago, since that time I found the setting of 90 to be the best for this rifle.
Lee
One click will move the tuner .001Can you give an estimate as to what the numerical value increments of 5 mean in measured movement? Do you think 5 is .005 of movement for instance or do you think its more like .020.
Trying to decide what increments I should move berween groups when starting in on my first attempt at tuning.
Stitch, I would save the Aguilla & T22 for another discipline.We have yet to get our rifles tested. I’m shooting a CZ 457 MTR. The Ammo I have on hand is: Aguila solid point, Win.T22, Eley target, Eley match, SK rifle match, Federal Gold Medal ultra match, Lapua center X, Lapua Midas + & RWS R50. The more I mull this over in my mind, the more I think that I need to start all over. I had my tuner legnth set long, to almost as far out as it would go. I have multiple boxes of the Eley match, Fed ultra match, T22, SK match and Aguila. I believe that, being in too much of a hurry, I may have done a deficient job in Initially setting up the tuner.
Stitch
On the Harrell tuner 1-click is suppose to be 0.001 I have never measured it, as I am not concerned about the actual amount it moves. I always go by what happens on paper. so 5-clicks should be 0.005, also I forgot to mention I use the true zero of the tuner, meaning I turn the tuner in even if it is past the zero mark and start from there, most will be 10-15 clicks in from zero.Can you give an estimate as to what the numerical value increments of 5 mean in measured movement? Do you think 5 is .005 of movement for instance or do you think its more like .020.
Trying to decide what increments I should move berween groups when starting in on my first attempt at tuning.
Thank you. I made a tuner but need to go revisit what thread I used (1/32 i think) to calculate the length per rev. I think I marked it out in 10 degree incriments which would be .003ish per mark. That said I didnt know how finicky these things are.On the Harrell tuner 1-click is suppose to be 0.001 I have never measured it, as I am not concerned about the actual amount it moves. I always go by what happens on paper. so 5-clicks should be 0.005, also I forgot to mention I use the true zero of the tuner, meaning I turn the tuner in even if it is past the zero mark and start from there, most will be 10-15 clicks in from zero.
for anyone that will make their first attempt to use a tuner, I would shoot some groups with the best lot for that rifle without the tuner. this will give a good base line for when you do put the tuner on and start to tune.
Lee
I believe the Harrell is threaded 1" 40 tpi, there is an advantage of not having a set amount you can only move the tuner out by. I am looking to make a tuner with dual adjustments, where I can make extremely fine adjustments without changing the original setting. currently I use O-rings to make those adjustments.Thank you. I made a tuner but need to go revisit what thread I used (1/32 i think) to calculate the length per rev. I think I marked it out in 10 degree incriments which would be .003ish per mark. That said I didnt know how finicky these things are.
I initially played with this one in .25 turns (.0075ish) per group and it for sure opened and closed groups up markedly at times. I went out to three turns and it was damn cold so I didnt get to involved.
Waiting for 40+ weather as this lapua seems to shoot very poorly below 32 in my rifle.
I hope you realize that every change you make in your tuner you will have to shoot 50 shots and statistically analyze them before you can know if your change means anything. Anything less and all you have is random garbage.Hey, guys. Thanks so much for your input. This is one of the great things about this site, folks are always willing to share experiences and information. In the short few years I’ve been a member, I have met a bunch of GREAT folks. Thanks everyone. I will post results on this subject in the future.
Stitch