Rifle Suppressor Question

[Rick in Oregon]

After a few years of seeing more and more suppressor use on rifles, specifically varmint rifles, I've got a question for those who've taken the plunge and have some experience on this subject.

What is the usual total cost of the suppressor, barrel threading/muzzle cap, smith charges, tax stamp and all the hoopla associated with a rifle suppressor once done? I know the suppressor price varies, just looking for an average here.

I hear the wait time for the tax stamp is now very short, but how short?

Thanks for anyone taking the time to answer. I've been around rifles a very long time and have resisted the urge, now wondering if it's all worth the cost, time and effort. School me please.

 

[rich44]

Silencer Central will thread your muzzle for $125, there is no tax stamp anymore no more $200 fee then the price of whatever suppressor you want plus mounting system, hub mount for direct thread or muzzle device.
The last can I got took 2 days to clear

 

[Clancy]

Thread is within $25 of $150 anywhere you go.

Tax stamps are $0

Any of the good titanium cans are going to average $900.

I’ve been using Diligent Defense. They have a good selection. I’d focus on the Wolfhunter, which is a 6” .243 caliber suppressor or the Enticer LTI, which is an 8” .308 suppressor.



This is a group of 5 from my LTI day before yesterday. I just wanted to sight it in for the upcoming coyote hunts. That’s a $775 suppressor.

 

[TIMO]

Rick, as stated above the $200 tax is now $0.00. My first suppressor I bought last August was for a pistol that was factory threaded, it is also adaptable to several others that have different thread pitch just by swapping out the piston. Currently in the process for a rifle suppressor. I will have about $1000. in it with tax and then 3 or 4 suppressor mounting devices (ASR) to fit several rifles ($50.00 to 80.00) for each rifle. Probably will end up with about $1200 to $1400 invested with this suppressor to include different end caps and suppressor cover. The advantage for this suppressor is it is a hybrid (modular)(SilencerCo 46M) I can use it on multiple calibers 5.56 to 46 and it is magnum & full auto rated.
I would go through your local dealer and price compare with Silencer Shop, they are super easy to work with and everything can be done online. If your dealer has their kiosk in store even better.

Just my .02
Tim

 

[Rick in Oregon]

Thanks for the replies. It confirms my thoughts about no 'slip-on' options for obvious reasons.
I called my smith, and he charges $125 for threading and cap. Seems reasonable, but now I have to decide if I want to have one of my Coopers threaded for the can.

First World problem, I know.

 

[ken158]

Thanks for the replies. It confirms my thoughts about no 'slip-on' options for obvious reasons.
I called my smith, and he charges $125 for threading and cap. Seems reasonable, but now I have to decide if I want to have one of my Coopers threaded for the can.

First World problem, I know.

I will be sending a Cooper off next week to SC for threading. They do a lot and have some high end looking equipment for the job, reviews are good and return is reported as being quick.

 

[Larryh128]

The Diligent are good cans, and quite a bit less expensive than some other TI cans. I have a Enticer STI that has been great, since we started using them about 4 years ago, my class 3 guy has sold dozens, no issues.

 

[3Ackleys]

My newest one is from Unknown Suppressors. It is the U.S. OG 6.5.
It is an over the barrel can, it is 8" long but only adds 4" to your barrel length. Also it weighs 7.4 oz.
It's my 4th suppressor, and it works very well.
They have other models as well, that I have shot. They are 3D Printed from Grade 23 Titanium.

U.S. OG Six-Five

The OG Six-Five brings the same sound suppression and tone improvements that the OG does, just in a lighter and 6.5 mm bored package.

unknownsuppressors.com

 

[Kracken McGraw]

Thanks for the replies. It confirms my thoughts about no 'slip-on' options for obvious reasons.
I called my smith, and he charges $125 for threading and cap. Seems reasonable, but now I have to decide if I want to have one of my Coopers threaded for the can.

First World problem, I know.

I would have a problem doing that to a Cooper too.

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

If you're getting one to check out the hype, for colony varmints and/or AR's get a full auto rated can. 30 cal if going on varmint contour barrels. Non-welded if you're going to run on rimfire also, a serviceable 223 full auto rated would be lighter weight for thinner barrels. Direct thread, no adapters, only cheap thread protectors for barrels not in use. 500-1000$.

 

[dantiff2]

Thanks for the replies. It confirms my thoughts about no 'slip-on' options for obvious reasons.
I called my smith, and he charges $125 for threading and cap. Seems reasonable, but now I have to decide if I want to have one of my Coopers threaded for the can.

First World problem, I know.

Keep the Cooper nice and clean and tell the wife you needed to buy a new gun because yours didn't have a threaded barrel ! HA HA HA!

 

[Rick in Oregon]

I've only got four Coopers, and I'm having a very hard time justifying putting one of the barrels on a lathe for threading. I may well just abandon the project and keep my Coopers in pristine condition.

I've got an area I shoot rockchucks that the use of a suppressed rifle makes much sense, but now I'm thinking maybe another rifle for the task. Problem is.....which one?

Yeah, I know....yet another First World problem again.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

I've only got four Coopers, and I'm having a very hard time justifying putting one of the barrels on a lathe for threading. I may well just abandon the project and keep my Coopers in pristine condition.

I've got an area I shoot rockchucks that the use of a suppressed rifle makes much sense, but now I'm thinking maybe another rifle for the task. Problem is.....which one?

Yeah, I know....yet another First World problem again.

I don’t know what type and quality of rifle your looking for, but I had a guy that I work with just buy a Ruger American gen2 and it has a 20 inch threaded barrel that would be perfect for a suppressor setup.

 

[Sigfla]

Plenty of good advice posted here already. A good gunsmith is gonna charge you over $100 for a quality thread job with everything being straight and square. You just have to be realistic as to how quiet it’s going to make your gun given that you are likely shooting a supersonic caliber. I would not hesitate to thread one of my custom rifles however an inexpensive, Savage or Remington built action would probably avoid your apprehension in messing with an already good set up.

 

[Rick in Oregon]

I appreciate all the comments. I've about come to the conclusion that I really don't want to modify any of my Coopers, but may have another rifle in mind if/when I decide to go the quiet route.

For the amount of shooting I do in a day in the rat patch, barrel heat would be a real factor. But a suppressed rifle would be appropriate for one specific area I shoot rockchucks with the much slower rate of fire. At present though, I just don't think it's worth the cost and effort, when I've shot my un-suppressed rifles there for years without any complaints from local residences.

Thanks to all who chimed in, but I think this project is officially on the back burner for now. My Coopers are in no danger of seeing a lathe anytime in the near future.

 

[jxb]

The new 3D printed can's supposedly stay much cooler but I suspect the cost is higher. I did one of my Coopers, my 7mag and it's a pleasure to shoot with the can as the recoil is about the same as 6.5 Creed without anything. Of course I'm not putting many rounds through it.

I wouldn't do your coopers cause like you said heat is an issue. At least not until it's time to rebarrel them, just get the replacement threaded.

If you just want something not custom, get a Tikka and put a stock on it you like. They shoot excellent out of the box, same or better with the can on it. I just have a TBAC Ultra 9 30cal, it works just fine for everything .22x to 30cal. There's a slug of excellent cans to choose from these days, that will likely be your biggest issue... choices - which one(s) to get

 

[Sigfla]

There is a new low heat can out there now. I have seen reviews online but can’t remember the brand

 

[Rob01]

I appreciate all the comments. I've about come to the conclusion that I really don't want to modify any of my Coopers, but may have another rifle in mind if/when I decide to go the quiet route.

For the amount of shooting I do in a day in the rat patch, barrel heat would be a real factor. But a suppressed rifle would be appropriate for one specific area I shoot rockchucks with the much slower rate of fire. At present though, I just don't think it's worth the cost and effort, when I've shot my un-suppressed rifles there for years without any complaints from local residences.

Thanks to all who chimed in, but I think this project is officially on the back burner for now. My Coopers are in no danger of seeing a lathe anytime in the near future.

Barrel heat doesn’t have anything to do with running a can. It will heat up like the barrel. You just run a suppressor cover to help with mirage and to keep you safe from accidental touching.

You don’t know what you are missing until you try them. Threading a barrel is nothing earth shaking. Send it to a smith and have it done. Won’t hurt the rifle.

 

[hoz53]

After a few years of seeing more and more suppressor use on rifles, specifically varmint rifles, I've got a question for those who've taken the plunge and have some experience on this subject.

What is the usual total cost of the suppressor, barrel threading/muzzle cap, smith charges, tax stamp and all the hoopla associated with a rifle suppressor once done? I know the suppressor price varies, just looking for an average here.

I hear the wait time for the tax stamp is now very short, but how short?

Thanks for anyone taking the time to answer. I've been around rifles a very long time and have resisted the urge, now wondering if it's all worth the cost, time and effort. School me please.

i do my own barrels only and while Ive never shot a suppressor on one of my own guns I have threaded the last few barrels as Im finally getting to the point of trying a brake but ive been actually thinking of trying a suppressor also. i sure see alot of them at the range these days and it amazes me how quiet some are with some fairly large calibers. i did see a guy shoot one off the end of his rifle last year. it was threaded to. dont know how that happened. anyway i thought of putting a brake on a ruger 77 in 7rm last year. its skinny at the muzzle and i decided i didnt want to thread it but thats because i think with 1/2” or 5/8 and a 7mm bullet there isnt much barrel material left and i think the bore could actually change. Im not threading any barrels at muzzle that are less than 3/4”. of coarse im not going to walk miles on a hunting trip at my age either. i wouldnt thread your coopers because they are the classics they are and i wouldnt thread a 1/2” muzzle because i think it could be damaged with such a thin thickness. just me —- i know lots do and would

 

[SongdogHunter]

After a few years of seeing more and more suppressor use on rifles, specifically varmint rifles, I've got a question for those who've taken the plunge and have some experience on this subject.

What is the usual total cost of the suppressor, barrel threading/muzzle cap, smith charges, tax stamp and all the hoopla associated with a rifle suppressor once done? I know the suppressor price varies, just looking for an average here.

I hear the wait time for the tax stamp is now very short, but how short?

Thanks for anyone taking the time to answer. I've been around rifles a very long time and have resisted the urge, now wondering if it's all worth the cost, time and effort. School me please.

Rick when i moved out of CA and into free america I went down on jan 1 of this year and picked up a few cans. That was thursday by Sunday I had the approval from ATF

ML