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Rifle driving/ steering tips with front rest

Anyone got some tips on how to properly steer , drive a rifle with a front rest and rear bag ? You know honestly I thought this would make things a cake walk and be easier then my other methods but I'm leaving it's another skill set I need to figure out to get the most out of it lol.


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For the most part I think I have everything set up right but not 100% sure.
 
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When you say balance, should I like be able to have the gun on the rest and it's literally balanced ? Like just floating there ?
That's what I do.
I get it on target and is I wanted to I could get up and come back and it should be close to where I left it.
Don't think is really needed but it gives you an idea.
I'm not a free recoil guy but the LESS of ME that's holding the rifle the better off I am.
Get everything set and sneak my shoulder up to the butt.
 
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Like suggested move the front rest up so that the first 4 inches of the Stock sits on the rest,
Not so close that it falls off during recoil however.
 
OP - From your picture it looks like you are shooting a hunting rifle, if that is the case here is my take on it.

I have never had good or consistent precision using free recoil on a lightweight hunting rifle. Grip the wrist with your normal hand grip like you are going to shoot it when you are hunting, just don't try to muscle it around.
The advice for free recoil and a light trigger is fine for a benchrest rifle but it doesn't work well for hunting rifles.

drover
 
I don't see a rear bag. Rifle should kinda stand in front and rear by itself. Not balanced in the air on the front
Protektor large rabbit ears squeeze easy with left hand.
I can't tell if you have windage on that rest or not. Don't cant the rifle for windage keep it straight as possible.
 
That lightweight, compact, scoped rifle will require a special technique to shoot it's best, and I don't think anyone here is going to predict exactly what that is.

Many of the rifles used here have wide, flat forends and horizontal edges so that they can track forward and back in the bags with near perfect movement. The shoulder doesn't touch anything. Then the trigger is touched, not squeezed. The weight of the rifle vs the modest power of the cartridge prevents the scope from biting your eye. That's free recoil. It's useless with most hunting rifles.

Your rifle has a narrow, rounded forend and scope up top that probably wants to roll over if you're not holding it. You must use your hands to hold it while firing. the trigger probably requires a firm squeeze, which means your trigger hand is applying significant pressure around the grip.

in my experience, start with the basics. Make sure any sling studs are removed or completely clear of the bags (the front stud appears to be clear). Adjust the front bag to gently squeeze the forend across its width. Make sure the butt stock is clear front-back of the rear bag so that during recoil it won't jump or stop. I like to use zero cheek pressure and wrap my hands as gently as possible and still control the gun. I like to oppose the force of my trigger finger with the rest of that hand - never my shoulder. Make sure the trigger finger pad is well centered on the trigger and positioned to pull back straight and squarely. Then it's up to me to ensure the rifle is placed on the rests the exact same way and my hands exert the exact same pressure each time. From the picture it looks like you may be doing all of these things but I can't confirm. I'm sure you'll lose your sight picture on each shot if that's a sturdy caliber but follow through carefully and you should have a similar sight picture left over after each shot (whether it's pointed up, down, left, right of the target)

Feel free to try the front rest at different positions. Just keep it consistent.

Wear the safety glasses too. If you're hunting you might not take many shots over your lifetime but on the bench you'll expose yourself to far more opportunities for the worst.

Not to add to the variables, but scopes sometimes work loose internally or on the mounts. Action screws come loose. Check all of that stuff.
 
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I don't see a rear bag. Rifle should kinda stand in front and rear by itself. Not balanced in the air on the front
Protektor large rabbit ears squeeze easy with left hand.
I can't tell if you have windage on that rest or not. Don't cant the rifle for windage keep it straight as possible.
I have a small sand sock I use right now. If you zoom in you can see it sticking out from under the stock. I'm also trying not to cant , I even installed a cheap little can't bubble on my scope , it's on the left side so you can see it. I'm trying tbut it's a little rough so far lol
 
I have never had any luck with a hunting rifle and front rest, I use a bi-pod and rear bag, also I do not hold the forearm but lay my left hand over the front scope ring, I do not hold the scope but just lay my hand over it to help (some) with muzzle rise and roll over. This is what works for me and I get moa or better but not benchrest precision.
 
I know from past posts that you are under budget restraints. That being said, watch the classifieds for a Sinclair bipod. They work great for load testing a hunting rifle. Once you have your rifle set up on the bench correctly there is no worry about cant shot to shot. Then it's all about what style of hold produces the best on target results for you.
 
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More grip on the grip. A rifle like that will require a firm hold with your trigger hand. Squeeze it. That controls the torque caused by the rifling. Also dampens the shake from the trigger pull.
Firm shoulder pressure. Some say tuck the butt beside the collar bone but there could be pulse there. Find your spot.
Leave the level at home. It’s a distraction and only worth a fraction of an inch at 100.
I prefer bags over the bipod.
 

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