Rifle Basix Sav II vs. SSS Savage trigger?

[MadDuc]

Has anyone out there compared the Rifle Basix Savage II trigger to the Savage Shooters supply trigger? I am looking for information on the ease of fit, adjust ability and feel of each? I am looking for a recommendation on which is the better trigger for Benchrest and long range varmint applications?

 

[BoydAllen]

Neither were true drop-ins. I have fitted both with a minimum of trouble. With Fred's,SSS) the issue is the cutout in the top of the trigger guard;it has to be opened to clear the trigger. A mill makes this easier, although I think that he would swap a modified one for yours for a small fee. The other one required a small amount of fitting where it straddles a rib formed by two cuts on the under side of the receiver. A little measuring and work with an inexpensive diamond lap,coarse) did the trick. The other difference is pull weight. The Sav II will go down to 4oz., to my standards for rough handling the SSS to about 18-20 oz. They both work well for me.

 

[Spook]

Rifle Basix SAV-2,no question .

 

[memilanuk]

I have a Rifle Basix Sav II on a 10FP,came w/ Accutrigger) that I am currently shooting and that I put on myself per their video instructions. I have a SSS trigger on a 110,pre-Accutrigger) that I had SSS put on while the action was in for a tune-up. As such I can't directly compare the installation. I was a little surprised that the Rifle Basix instructions expected me to salvage parts from the old trigger,can't recall which ones right now, been a long day) and incorporate them into the new trigger. Might have been the safety bar and bolt release tab, but seemed like there was something else. The SSS trigger is on a gun that is waiting for stock work so actual field use I can't comment on. The Rifle Basix... well, I'm a litte frustrated with it right now. The design has four adjustment screws easily accessible thru the trigger guard slot, which seems like a great idea, until one realizes that to get to said adjustments you have to remove the rear action screw,unless you modify the trigger guard) to do this, and that the adjustments are of the flavor where you have to 'hold' the set screw where you want it set, and then tighten the lock nut,sort of a jam nut arrangement), which is pretty damn hard to do,I'd say pretty close to impossible) with the action in the stock.

The reason I said I'm getting pretty frustrated w/ this trigger is that I've attempted locking the screws in place by applying some fingernail polish and tightening them, only to have them come loose again. The fellow at the other end of the phone line for Rifle Basix suggested the following 'fix'... to squeeze the screws in a vise to deform the threads slightly so as to create some 'drag' so they don't turn as freely. Uh-huh. Not exactly my idea of a good idea, though it may work. The problem has reared it's head for me in the form of the damn safety engagement screw screwing in and I shoot a string w/ a 4 oz. 'first stage' and a 4 lb. 'second stage' as I try to pull past the safetly,not much choice when it happens in the middle of a string of timed fire). Fortunately I can back the screw out after I pull the rear action screw out between strings... fun. Happened *three times today alone* at a 3/6/9/10/10 F-Class match.

Previously I'd not wanted to use Loctite on that small of a screw; now I'm about ready to use friggin' Super Glue to make that damn screw stay put. Speaking of which, I might as well go glue that SOB in place now while I'm thinking of it.

YMMV,

Monte

 

[oldjad01]

I installed the SSS comp trigger on my 22-250 last week. It went right in w/o any hassels except the trigger overtravel was set a little close and I could not get the bolt back in. The trigger apparantly was not going far enough to let the bolt stop release. Set it at 1.25#. I didn't get the Basix because I didn't want to go to less weight on the trigger anyway so I didn't need to spend the extra bucks for the Basix. I now have 3 varmit guns: a Jewel on my 700P 22BR/308 at 1.5#, an accu-trigger on my Savage 22-250/6mmBR set at < 1.25# and the SSS at almost 2# on a 223/204. The SSS compares ok with the Jewel and if I can adjust the the Accu trigger down to 1.5# it will be better, but I can live with it. BTW, the Jewel was the easiest one as I told them to set it at 1.5# and that is what it is. It also is more consistant, althought the others don't seem vary more than a 1/4# +-. I think someone could live with either of the triggers. Heard alot of talk about Jewel making a Savage trigger, but so far that is all it is. JimDee

 

[JohnJ]

squeezing the thread's will work but it will also do a Little harm to the female thread's on the way in.....it may not be much but in a small hole i don't think i would

go on and use the BLUE loctite it will work ok for trigger screws.....theres also a GREEN loctite that's suppose to fill in for worn threads ond work...tho iv never tryed it

stay away from the RED loctite on small screws unless you know how to get it to release....it works like superglue on small screws...back in the early days the RED was the only one made and a lot of scope bases were attached with it....i bought a used smallbore and wanted to change the bases and twisted the tip of the screwdriver...went with a friend that knew and old time gunsmith and told him about it and low and behold he told me the secret to get it to release....

or you can use silicon like for sealing places in your bathroom...that works good too

hope the info helps

JohnJ

 

[Forum Boss]

My experience with the SSS trigger on a year 2000,non-accutrigger) Savage 10FP was similar to Boyd. I had to do a LOT of filing on the triggerguard to get enough clearance. Then I also had the problem of the bolt not going back in. So I had to file a little off the tooth that extends up into the bolt raceway on the left.

The version of the trigger I got has a little notch in the sideplate that must be filed to file--go gently with this. If you don't get it just right the whole trigger can rock a little. Once I did get the unit installed, I found it took a lot of time to adjust the screws for the safety and overtravel. I had the barreled action out of the gun and everything would work right, but then when I put it back in the gun, one thing or another wouldn't function. Eventually I got it all to work right, with a pull weight of about 1.25 lbs. There is a little creep in the trigger though.

Other Savage owners I know had a much easier time and I know SSS has made improvements in the last couple of years so YMMV and you may find the install goes more smoothly.

 

[savet06]

I recently,last month) purchased a SSS trigger, and had some difficulty getting in, but this was purely my own fault. I didn't follow the pictures well enough. I, too, had to file down the bolt stop by maybe .010". The trigger breaks at a crisp 12oz,measured with a weight of pull tool) with no overtravel. Safety functions well, and I would buy another. I have only had experience with rifle basix on my dad's Remy which was very easy to install, and functions flawlessly.

 

[mikeinct]

The SAV-2 is pretty good but more money...I have done 2 of these..they go in about as easy as any other brand...The receivers vary some on savage/stevens guns...Do take the time to get the safety in correctly before going any farther with the install...after that the adjustments just seems to go better..On one a real savage [not the stevens] I can't use the third & lightest position for the trigger pin...It just won't function from that position no matter what..The trigger is crisp & light enough for varmint hunting but not as light albeit a bit mushy on the other gun that will let me use all three positions for the trigger pin.....I'm thinking I'd look into jard for the next replacement...But for the price & ease of instalation The sav-2 is pretty ok...mike in ct