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Removing the de-capping rod in a FL sizing die?

I’m de-capping in a separate process from “sizing” and I’m using a Sinclair mandrel to set my neck tension... so, I’ve removed my de-capping expander AND the rod assembly, and use the top of the Redding S die to screw down on to the Redding .336 bushing (backed off a tad to get a rattle).

Question... “Jay” from the on-line help desk at Redding wants me to retain the “de-capping rod”... I see no obvious reason to have it... so, my question... If you de-cap separately and don’t use the expander ball... do you retain the “rod” in your die? Just trying to get everything “right”. Thanks for the guidance!
 
Perhaps the Redding tech meant to have you retain the round locking nut part of the rod as an additional off-set for the top screw. I have had an issue where I eliminated the whole rod assembly and found, the top screw needed to be turned too far down to meet the neck bushing so I added the round locking nut as the off-set and had plenty of thread on the screw left over to lock that in place on top. otherwise, I know of no practical application for having the rod in place if not using the decp pin or the expander ball.
 
i also use the redding type S with no decap rod, but as a spacer i use a spare bush as they are uniform in dimension to keep things square.
i also use an O-ring under the nut on top to hold the thread centered which also helps to keep things square.
i usually raise the bush 1/4 turn or more with some then lock it to do partial neck sizes.
hope this helps. Pete
 
I sold all my Redding dies and bought Lee Collets. Simpler, faster, straighter and less case growth.
 
I use honed Forsters. The hone size allows me to get sufficient neck tension with my thinnest brass but is the largest that will do so. I use .245” neck ID for my .223 Forster and .2885” for my 6.5mm.

The neck size is such that I can use the expander and have it do very little work, or skip the expander and have acceptable neck tension.
 

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