Remmy 700/HS Precision Stock- Bedding Job

[NETim]

As boltfluter mentioned above, very few of these bedding blocks/recievers make good contact. I use a method very similar to his to lap the block after checking the contact with Prussian Blue.

Also, 65 lbs/in. for the factory pot metal bottom metal is more than double what it will take before bending, warping and wallowing out the tapered seat for the action screws. That mystical/magical 65 lbs/in. is for steel bottom metal. -Al

Would you suggest just tightening the screws to "just tight" or acquiring steel bottom metal?

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Playing around with it this evening, I noticed that loosening/tightening the front action screw I could feel the barrel move significantly. No dial indicator needed to see it.

Like i said and others said it must be bedded to be right. Its fine for off the shelf customers that may not ever notice it or loosen those screws

 

[Bamban]

I've posted this before but here's what I use to center the action screws and provide adequate clearance around them.

These flanged sleeves are 5/16" O.D. and 1/4" I.D. Enlarge the screw holes in the pillars or bedding block to 5/16", then epoxy them into the holes. Then use long guide screws in the action to center the action screws in the I.D. of the sleeves. When the bedding is cured and the barrelled action removed, just drill the sleeves out. The screws will be perfectly centered and have adequate clearance around them to prevent any contact...which a big no-no. -Al

Al,

I have been using your trick with those flanged sleeves. They work real well. I am terrible at bedding.

 

[Bamban]

With the BDL bottom metal, open the floor plate and swing the spring and follower out before chaecking for movement. If there's movement then at the barrel or tang when you loosen and tighten the action screws individually, you have bedding issues.

If you have a magnetic base dial indicator set the base on the barrel and the indicator on the side of the stock at the end, then crack the screws loose. Obviously, if you can feel or see the movement you already know it's excessive. The dial indicator method will give you a figure to reference to when you're done with the bedding to see how much it's improved. These setups are $30 at Harbor Freight and should be in anyones tool box if you're going to do any bedding.

The factory pot metal BDL stuff is usually warped or will warp when the action screws are tightened. After the action is properly bedded, the floor plate gets bedded as well.

On a 700 recoil lug, the only contact should be the rear surface of the lug. -Al

Al, thanks for pointing out using a dial indicator to ascertain movement. On a completed bedding job, what range of movement would you consider acceptable? Obviously zero is the goal, but realistic experience, perfection is just not that easily achievable, thus tolerance is acceptable.

 

[NETim]

Al,

I have been using your trick with those flanged sleeves. They work real well. I am terrible at bedding.

View attachment 1305090

These sleeves appear to be plastic. Where are they sourced?

Edit: I found these on the Amazon. 0.312" OD is very close to the size of the holes in the stock. Nylon flanged bushing 1/4' ID

 

[Bamban]

These sleeves appear to be plastic. Where are they sourced?

Edit: I found these on the Amazon. 0.312" OD is very close to the size of the holes in the stock. Nylon flanged bushing 1/4' ID

Yes, those are the ones I used. They are sacrificial pieces, drill them out.

 

[pintopete]

As boltfluter mentioned above, very few of these bedding blocks/recievers make good contact. I use a method very similar to his to lap the block after checking the contact with Prussian Blue.

Also, 65 lbs/in. for the factory pot metal bottom metal is more than double what it will take before bending, warping and wallowing out the tapered seat for the action screws. That mystical/magical 65 lbs/in. is for steel bottom metal. -Al

Somewhere I came up with 25 in/lbs as my standard for the alloy bottom metal rifles.

 

[boltfluter]

Somewhere I came up with 25 in/lbs as my standard for the alloy bottom metal rifles.

Pete makes a good point. I torque my action screws with 40"# on the front screw and 25"# on the rear. Tight enough, but not overly tight.

Paul

 

[AlNyhus]

Al, thanks for pointing out using a dial indicator to ascertain movement. On a completed bedding job, what range of movement would you consider acceptable? Obviously zero is the goal, but realistic experience, perfection is just not that easily achievable, thus tolerance is acceptable.

Glad you like those sleeves...they make things so much easier, don't they? How did the Howa bedding job turn out?

I like no more than .002 movement with the indicator set up as shown (with a free floating barrel). On actions where the tang should be free floating (Savages, for example), you can live with a bit more and still have a stress free result. If you see .000 (zero) on the indicator, the action is likely a bit tight somewhere in the bedding and the indicator reading is a fake out. On a well done bedding job, the barrelled action should never have to be tugged on to remove it...it should literally fall out of the stock when the screws are removed.

Just my approach to it. -Al

 

[NETim]

With the BDL bottom metal, open the floor plate and swing the spring and follower out before chaecking for movement. If there's movement then at the barrel or tang when you loosen and tighten the action screws individually, you have bedding issues.

If you have a magnetic base dial indicator set the base on the barrel and the indicator on the side of the stock at the end, then crack the screws loose. Obviously, if you can feel or see the movement you already know it's excessive. The dial indicator method will give you a figure to reference to when you're done with the bedding to see how much it's improved. These setups are $30 at Harbor Freight and should be in anyones tool box if you're going to do any bedding.

The factory pot metal BDL stuff is usually warped or will warp when the action screws are tightened. After the action is properly bedded, the floor plate gets bedded as well.

On a 700 recoil lug, the only contact should be the rear surface of the lug. -Al

I found my dial indicator kit I use for brake jobs (rotor runout). I have about .008 to .010 of deflection loosening and tightening the front action screw. And that's not really hammering on it. Just mild torquing using a screwdriver hex driver.

 

[AlNyhus]

I found my dial indicator kit I use for brake jobs (rotor runout). I have about .008 to .010 of deflection loosening and tightening the front action screw. And that's not really hammering on it. Just mild torquing using a screwdriver hex driver.

That's not using the bottom metal...just flat headed bolts with a washer?

 

[NETim]

That's not using the bottom metal...just flat headed bolts with a washer?

That's with the bottom metal. No spring, follower or mag box installed.

 

[AlNyhus]

That's with the bottom metal. No spring, follower or mag box installed.

Try it w/o the bottom metal. -Al

 

[Bamban]

Glad you like those sleeves...they make things so much easier, don't they? How did the Howa bedding job turn out?

I like no more than .002 movement with the indicator set up as shown (with a free floating barrel). On actions where the tang should be free floating (Savages, for example), you can live with a bit more and still have a stress free result. If you see .000 (zero) on the indicator, the action is likely a bit tight somewhere in the bedding and the indicator reading is a fake out. On a well done bedding job, the barrelled action should never have to be tugged on to remove it...it should literally fall out of the stock when the screws are removed.

Just my approach to it. -Al

The 280AI in that Howa shoots well with RL23, 175 Elite Hunter, CCI 250. Here is zeroing at 200.



I've had 1st round hits with the rifle from 200-1000 on E-Silhouette. Had a spotter calling the wind, I was just a trigger monkey.