If you bed the whole recoil lug,including the bottom. I don't see how it could push up on the action. the down pressure should be even on action and lug. If it wasn't bedded well to start with,that is a different problem. If the lug can push up,couldn't the barrel area in front of it, that so many people bed, push it up to? its farther away from the screws and would have even more leverage then the lug. taping the bottom seems iffy at best. not even and perfectly square with the lug and could slide and leave a small sharp edge of bedding touching the lug. In the past I bed all sides and then machine off .005' from the bottom of the lug. seems more consistent to me. my next one I will shoot before relieving the bottom. someone has to have tried this before? with bedding blocks and pillars I don't understand how it could be a problem.. help me learn
bedding recoil lug bottom
- Thread starter bigfishman
- Start date
Bigfish,
My bedding technique is to bed all the surfaces of the recoil lug but leave a gap under the bottom surface. Three strips of masking tape does the trick.
Leaving a gap under the lug may help if there is any dimensional change due to heating of the action and bbl.. If the lug were bedded on the bottom, any dimensional changes,caused by temp or whatever) will now put a vertical stress on the bbl and action.
I examined an F-class rifle that Alan Warner had built. The action was a Barnard and he used a single recoil block attached to the bottom of the action, mid-distance between the action screws. The block was relieved on the sides and front for easy removal. The bottom of the lug appeared to have clearance from the bedding. The rifle is very accurate.
The lug or block being bedded on all sides except the bottom, especially on round actions, helps absorb any torque that might be generated during firing. The action cannot move in the bedding if it is captured on all sides. In the many rifles I have bedded that way, the theory seems to hold up.
Bob
My bedding technique is to bed all the surfaces of the recoil lug but leave a gap under the bottom surface. Three strips of masking tape does the trick.
Leaving a gap under the lug may help if there is any dimensional change due to heating of the action and bbl.. If the lug were bedded on the bottom, any dimensional changes,caused by temp or whatever) will now put a vertical stress on the bbl and action.
I examined an F-class rifle that Alan Warner had built. The action was a Barnard and he used a single recoil block attached to the bottom of the action, mid-distance between the action screws. The block was relieved on the sides and front for easy removal. The bottom of the lug appeared to have clearance from the bedding. The rifle is very accurate.
The lug or block being bedded on all sides except the bottom, especially on round actions, helps absorb any torque that might be generated during firing. The action cannot move in the bedding if it is captured on all sides. In the many rifles I have bedded that way, the theory seems to hold up.
Bob
wnroscoe is absolutely correct. If you choose to ignore this practice .....your next bedding job may result in a permanently epoxied receiver to the stock....i.e. recoil lug not flat or taperered the wrong way.
Accuracy requires the rear of the lug ONLY to be in full contact, why make life harder than necessary?
Sooner or later a speck of dirt in the bottom of the lug recess will cause you nightmares.
Accuracy requires the rear of the lug ONLY to be in full contact, why make life harder than necessary?
Sooner or later a speck of dirt in the bottom of the lug recess will cause you nightmares.
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