Remington Floating bolt heads

[ab_bentley]

I know it has been covered in excess in other forums, but those threads are non-existent or have the pictures removed.

I currently have a Remington bolt that has had the nose blown off and I would like to convert it over to a floating style head. I know the process but haven't seen it in pictures. As I am a visual learner I was wondering if anyone has a sequence of pics describing the process.

Adam

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Can't help with pics, but I've done a few of them. Why not do what I did and take a Savage bolt apart, and re-engineer your Remington bolt likewise? In a nutshell, cut the bolt to length, depending on whether or not you use the Savage baffle..which I think is a good idea, locate and time cross pin location, modify bolt head and firing pin to work and fit one another. You'll need a lathe, a mill, accurate measurements and some patience.--Mike Ezell

 

[Dusty Stevens]

If you blew up a remington bolt you may not be so lucky next time adding all those pieces

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

If you blew up a remington bolt you may not be so lucky next time adding all those pieces

That's why I think using the baffle behind the bolt head is a good idea.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Good call as usual mr ezell

 

[shortgrass]

I may be overly cautious, but I'd probably avoid a bolt body that's had "the nose blown off", just on general principals. I used to thread a lot of shotgun barrels for choke tubes (still have the 12, 16, & 20g tooling) and was asked many times to "cut the barrel off behind the 'bulge' and thread it and put a bead back on it". I'd decline those jobs, it just wasn't worth it to me. "Blown up" is like "the stock got singed when my house burned".

 

[ebb]

Did you find anything on the bolt head conversion? I would like to do a Mauser. If you find anything let me know by posting here please.

 

[RandyB]

PM sent

 

[ab_bentley]

Thank you guys for the info. I'll let you know how the conversion goes

Adam

 

[bapayton]

I'm working on this conversion myself. Got a Remington L/A bolt for cheap that had a botched Sako extractor install. I'm sleeving the front of the bolt plus I have to build some tooling so I'm probably halfway there.

Keep the thread updated with your progress!

 

[Danny1788]

http://forum.snipershide.info/showthread.php?t=194873

Looks like SAC has done this before maybe contact them see if they are any help.

 

[boltfluter]

The SAC conversion used a Bighorn bolt head if that is any help. Good luck and keep us posted.

Regards, Paul

www.boltfluting.com

 

[RandyB]

Guys, don't overlook the Marlin X7 bolthead. It already has the antibind groove. RandyB.

 

[ab_bentley]

 

[boltfluter]

Ab,

Lookin good so far. 8)

Paul

www.boltfluting.com

 

[RandyB]

Nice work. You are almost done.

 

[ab_bentley]

Thanks, I'll grind the firing pin this afternoon. It'll be nice to have a .062" pin again.

Adam

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Thanks, I'll grind the firing pin this afternoon. It'll be nice to have a .062" pin again.

Adam

Looking good! You probably know this and have already dealt with it, but accurately timing the cross pin hole will keep it from "fighting" against itself when opening and closing the bolt..relative to to closing and extraction cams.
Also, it looks like you have chosen to go without using a baffle behind the lugs. The purpose of the baffle is to help prevent gas and other debris from coming at the shooter via the bolt lug raceway in the event of a case rupture. Using a baffle is not an absolute necessity but is a good safety feature IMHO. At the very least, I would use minimal bolt nose to barrel clearance as a means of metering gas and or debris from making its way out. Again, that's just my opinion..so take it for what it's worth. Several have been done both ways, including several customs, with no such baffle system. Personally, I think a properly set up Remington style "3 rings of steel" is the benchmark for gas containment designs. People often defeat that system with too much clearance at critical areas, without even knowing it. --Mike

 

[ab_bentley]

Thanks, I'll grind the firing pin this afternoon. It'll be nice to have a .062" pin again.

Adam

Looking good! You probably know this and have already dealt with it, but accurately timing the cross pin hole will keep it from "fighting" against itself when opening and closing the bolt..relative to to closing and extraction cams.
Also, it looks like you have chosen to go without using a baffle behind the lugs. The purpose of the baffle is to help prevent gas and other debris from coming at the shooter via the bolt lug raceway in the event of a case rupture. Using a baffle is not an absolute necessity but is a good safety feature IMHO. At the very least, I would use minimal bolt nose to barrel clearance as a means of metering gas and or debris from making its way out. Again, that's just my opinion..so take it for what it's worth. Several have been done both ways, including several customs, with no such baffle system. Personally, I think a properly set up Remington style "3 rings of steel" is the benchmark for gas containment designs. People often defeat that system with too much clearance at critical areas, without even knowing it. --Mike

Mike, yes this pin has -.0005" tension on it, best as i could measure it and it keeps tight in its hole. The baffles can still be added and probably will be added, but for the moment it was this or nothing. I run .005" nose clearance on BR style rifles, which this is.

Adam

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Thanks, I'll grind the firing pin this afternoon. It'll be nice to have a .062" pin again.

Adam

Looking good! You probably know this and have already dealt with it, but accurately timing the cross pin hole will keep it from "fighting" against itself when opening and closing the bolt..relative to to closing and extraction cams.
Also, it looks like you have chosen to go without using a baffle behind the lugs. The purpose of the baffle is to help prevent gas and other debris from coming at the shooter via the bolt lug raceway in the event of a case rupture. Using a baffle is not an absolute necessity but is a good safety feature IMHO. At the very least, I would use minimal bolt nose to barrel clearance as a means of metering gas and or debris from making its way out. Again, that's just my opinion..so take it for what it's worth. Several have been done both ways, including several customs, with no such baffle system. Personally, I think a properly set up Remington style "3 rings of steel" is the benchmark for gas containment designs. People often defeat that system with too much clearance at critical areas, without even knowing it. --Mike

Mike, yes this pin has -.0005" tension on it, best as i could measure it and it keeps tight in its hole. The baffles can still be added and probably will be added, but for the moment it was this or nothing. I run .005" nose clearance on BR style rifles, which this is.

Adam

I should have known, you know what you're doing. Some of the things I mentioned are overlooked, undervalued or just plain unknown to some pretty big names in the "gunsmithing" industry. Nice work, Adam! I'm more sure than ever that it'll be a job done right.--Mike