Remington 783 problem

[Dusty Stevens]

If you just step back and think, if it works out of the stock but doesnt when you torque it down its getting bent if the screws arent hitting the bolt. If you put the action in the stock and it rocks around but gets solid after tightening it then youre bending it and it needs to be bedded. Sometimes you just gotta step back and think about whats happening and try it after each step to see where it stops working

 

[Knotwild]

OK, I'm not the brightest person, but I have a 783, 16" semi heavy barrel. It has never bound up and shoots excellent for a cheap factory rifle. I torqued the plastic stock to factory specs and the only problem (which is common) is that the rear screw pulled through the cheap plastic trigger guard. So, I got sick of that stock and bought an original Remington stock (surely made by Boyds) off Ebay for $70 and bedded it. Since the rear screw had pulled through the trigger guard, I fixed that by drilling out the hole and gluing a bushing inside, which sits on top of a flat washer in the stock. That fixed the trigger guard problem because it is no longer used as a washer. Hey, I'll be the first to admit I am not a stock expert, but I can shoot the rifle now.

The baffling part for me is the mention of a middle screw, but mine is a short wood screw that would pull out of the wood before it exerted any pressure to the action.

But my experience with the trigger guard tells me that too much torque will smash the cheap plastic trigger guard that is acting as a washer so that it is thinner than when it was new. If the rear trigger guard screw is over tightened and crushes the trigger guard, the rear screw can protrude in the bolt raceway and bind the bolt. I know this because I had that happen when I was fitting my bushing and washer setup. That, to me, is more logical than warping the action.

Now, if someone can find a cheap replacement trigger guard made out of metal, it will feel like Christmas to me. Until then, I am seriously considering 783 Bottom Metal .

 

[Twdmar]

OK, I'm not the brightest person, but I have a 783, 16" semi heavy barrel. It has never bound up and shoots excellent for a cheap factory rifle. I torqued the plastic stock to factory specs and the only problem (which is common) is that the rear screw pulled through the cheap plastic trigger guard. So, I got sick of that stock and bought an original Remington stock (surely made by Boyds) off Ebay for $70 and bedded it. Since the rear screw had pulled through the trigger guard, I fixed that by drilling out the hole and gluing a bushing inside, which sits on top of a flat washer in the stock. That fixed the trigger guard problem because it is no longer used as a washer. Hey, I'll be the first to admit I am not a stock expert, but I can shoot the rifle now.

The baffling part for me is the mention of a middle screw, but mine is a short wood screw that would pull out of the wood before it exerted any pressure to the action.

But my experience with the trigger guard tells me that too much torque will smash the cheap plastic trigger guard that is acting as a washer so that it is thinner than when it was new. If the rear trigger guard screw is over tightened and crushes the trigger guard, the rear screw can protrude in the bolt raceway and bind the bolt. I know this because I had that happen when I was fitting my bushing and washer setup. That, to me, is more logical than warping the action.

Now, if someone can find a cheap replacement trigger guard made out of metal, it will feel like Christmas to me. Until then, I am seriously considering 783 Bottom Metal .


View attachment 1217822

Buy a generic trigger guard, like an adl one and put it in. The angle of the 783 trigger guard is hideous. I have the ptg aics bottom metal, it works well but needs different mags.

 

[Knotwild]

Buy a generic trigger guard, like an adl one and put it in. The angle of the 783 trigger guard is hideous. I have the ptg aics bottom metal, it works well but needs different mags.

I've been thinking about trying a metal trigger guard, but it's tough to know if one will fit without having it in my hand. I am not a tinkerer, but I am very apt at screwing things up.

 

[Twdmar]

I've been thinking about trying a metal trigger guard, but it's tough to know if one will fit without having it in my hand. I am not a tinkerer, but I am very apt at screwing things up.

If you have a clamp, x-acto knife, a little masking tape and a chisel and you can make the inlet bigger. Measure how wide you trigger guard inlet is, someone here can give the width of a savage or m700 guard. If its a tad smaller than the current inlet, put a little epoxy around it to fill the gap.

 

[boltfluter]

The problem you are describing is the reason I torque all my rifles to 45" lbs on the front screw and 25" lbs on the rear screw. Did some testing years ago and this was the best setting for my rifles for best accuracy. It is easier than you can imagine to bow an action in the middle. With the loading port and magazine cut out literally on top of each other you can see why. This is one reason why you need good bedding.

Paul

 

[Ryanlilb83]

I had this happen on a plastic stocked 22 I had a long time ago. The rear bolt is too long or due to over tightening of the rear action bolt it is protruding up and contacting the fire pin and sear area rear of the bolt body. That why when you backed off the action bolts it fired.

 

[Carryacolt]

If you just step back and think, if it works out of the stock but doesnt when you torque it down its getting bent if the screws arent hitting the bolt. If you put the action in the stock and it rocks around but gets solid after tightening it then youre bending it and it needs to be bedded. Sometimes you just gotta step back and think about whats happening and try it after each step to see where it stops working

Ok, bare with me here ! As I understand it, the pillars are mere spacers with the purpose of holding the spacing between the floorplate and action consistent, straight, and gives strength to tighten the action screws down to a required tourque value, and probably a few other things. These pillars do not seem to be straight and/or parallel in the stock. The action rocks at least 1/8" at the fore end of stock when the action is loose in the stock, then by pushing down on the rear tang of the action, it's like a teeter totter with the front pillar being the fulcrum. The action screws do not line up on the threaded holes and I have to move the the action back and forth in order to engage the threads.
I have never seen an action this far out of alignment. It doesn't matter if I first tighten the front screw (next to the recoil lug) or tighten the rear tang screw first, it bends the barreled action.
Yes, I believe bedding it would correct the problem. BUT, it should not bind in the first place. Does this occur with every plastic stock produced for the 783? Probably not but is it half (50%) that's bad, 70%, 40%, ??
How in hell did this one get by the Q. C. checks?
I get it, that the 783 is not a bench gun. This one was bought as a general purpose hunt rifle with the idea that one inch groups at 100 would be plenty good enough for the job we want it to do. I have shot 3/4" groups with it. It's just not knowing if it's going to go "bang" or "click", when ya push the trigger, and that gives you a sick feeling in your stomach when you're looking at that nice 10 point.

 

[Twdmar]

Ok, bare with me here ! As I understand it, the pillars are mere spacers with the purpose of holding the spacing between the floorplate and action consistent, straight, and gives strength to tighten the action screws down to a required tourque value, and probably a few other things. These pillars do not seem to be straight and/or parallel in the stock. The action rocks at least 1/8" at the fore end of stock when the action is loose in the stock, then by pushing down on the rear tang of the action, it's like a teeter totter with the front pillar being the fulcrum. The action screws do not line up on the threaded holes and I have to move the the action back and forth in order to engage the threads.
I have never seen an action this far out of alignment. It doesn't matter if I first tighten the front screw (next to the recoil lug) or tighten the rear tang screw first, it bends the barreled action.
Yes, I believe bedding it would correct the problem. BUT, it should not bind in the first place. Does this occur with every plastic stock produced for the 783? Probably not but is it half (50%) that's bad, 70%, 40%, ??
How in hell did this one get by the Q. C. checks?
I get it, that the 783 is not a bench gun. This one was bought as a general purpose hunt rifle with the idea that one inch groups at 100 would be plenty good enough for the job we want it to do. I have shot 3/4" groups with it. It's just not knowing if it's going to go "bang" or "click", when ya push the trigger, and that gives you a sick feeling in your stomach when you're looking at that nice 10 point.

Try putting a thin washer under the screws to see if that reduces your click and improves your bang. If so, I would be the pillars are either loose or too short and allow the screws too far into the the action that they cause the misfire by pushing into the bolt head or the striker.
Bedding the stock will not hurt but that stock probably is not worth the time or money. Buy a Boyd's for it.

 

[Carryacolt]

Try putting a thin washer under the screws to see if that reduces your click and improves your bang. If so, I would be the pillars are either loose or too short and allow the screws too far into the the action that they cause the misfire by pushing into the bolt head or the striker.
Bedding the stock will not hurt but that stock probably is not worth the time or money. Buy a Boyd's for it.

I've been looking at the Boyd's stocks. Have one picked out.