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Remington 783 problem

Yes it has pillars installed. I just discovered that with the two stock screws removed, the action will "rock" up and down in the stock, at the front pillar. The action does not lay flat in the stock. When the stock screws are tightened down, I can feel the barrel spring up or down depending on which one is being tightened.
Are the pillars adjustable or are they permanent in the stock?
They are just two pieces of metal. The only way to adjust them is cut them off. Coarse you can’t add on.
 
Believe it or not it's not an extreme case at all. I currently have a Rem 700 long action with a binding problem. Before I ever bedded the action you could tighten the front screw into the bottom bolt lug at 35 in lbs right from the box so I had to eliminate that. Then I noticed anything over 10 in-lbs on the center screw (front trigger guard) would bind the bolt up completely even after removing the front screw all together. So, I removed some material form the cheap (plastic) stock and pillar bedded the front and rear real nice, corrected the action screw length problem both front and rear so they did not protrude at all. After that, now I can put about 15/18 in-lbs on the center screw (oh I also replaced the plastic trigger guard will an alloy one) before it starts to bind the bolt in its raceway. At 20+ in-lbs you cannot move the bolt at all front or back in the action. Fast forward 15 year, this is a beater gun so honestly I don't worry about the shit quality of it because it also has ZERO primary extraction as the bolt handle is .050-.060 off of the cammed surface on the action. Only reason I still have it is because it shoots great for an old 06'. Thanks Remington ; ) LMAO

Dan
 
Believe it or not it's not an extreme case at all. I currently have a Rem 700 long action with a binding problem. Before I ever bedded the action you could tighten the front screw into the bottom bolt lug at 35 in lbs right from the box so I had to eliminate that. Then I noticed anything over 10 in-lbs on the center screw (front trigger guard) would bind the bolt up completely even after removing the front screw all together. So, I removed some material form the cheap (plastic) stock and pillar bedded the front and rear real nice, corrected the action screw length problem both front and rear so they did not protrude at all. After that, now I can put about 15/18 in-lbs on the center screw (oh I also replaced the plastic trigger guard will an alloy one) before it starts to bind the bolt in its raceway. At 20+ in-lbs you cannot move the bolt at all front or back in the action. Fast forward 15 year, this is a beater gun so honestly I don't worry about the shit quality of it because it also has ZERO primary extraction as the bolt handle is .050-.060 off of the cammed surface on the action. Only reason I still have it is because it shoots great for an old 06'. Thanks Remington ; ) LMAO

Dan
Dont think theyre the same thing . Your screws are too long and hitting the bolt body and lugs , preventing you from opening the bolt . Binding or bending the action when torquing the screws , without them bottoming out on the bolt , is the OP problem .
You could of easily taken a thread or two off your screws and accomplished the same outcome .
 
I understand that its easy to pull an action out of whack if not properly bedded and torqued. What i am curious how common is it that, even when torqued out of spec, will the rifle not fire, as in the OP?
 
I don't understand how a pillar equipped plastic stock could prevent the firing pin from igniting a primer. No way 50 inch pounds would warp the bolt.
 
Dont think theyre the same thing . Your screws are too long and hitting the bolt body and lugs , preventing you from opening the bolt . Binding or bending the action when torquing the screws , without them bottoming out on the bolt , is the OP problem .
You could of easily taken a thread or two off your screws and accomplished the same outcome .
That problem was addressed and the screws do not contact the bolt body after a proper bedding job. With out the pillars my screws never stopped embedding into the stock. The more torque the deeper they went. Again, all that was corrected. The center screw still puts my action into a bad bind.
 
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That problem was addressed and the screws do not contact the bolt body after a proper bedding job. With out the pillars my screws never stopped embedding into the stock. The more torque the deeper they went. Again, all that was corrected. The center screw still puts my action into a bad bind.
Okay , glad you got it and it shoots great .
 
Okay , glad you got it and it shoots great .
Well, I never really got it. Not the same as the OP because I don't have hang or misfires but I still can make it bind. I can set the front and rear action screws anywhere from 30 to 65 in lbs and the bolt is loose, as soon as I try to tighten the small center action screw more than snug (20in lbs) you can feel the bolt binding in the raceway. I guess Remington just uses that tight of a tolerance to give us the best quality possible.. BA HA HA HA !!!
 
Well, I never really got it. Not the same as the OP because I don't have hang or misfires but I still can make it bind. I can set the front and rear action screws anywhere from 30 to 65 in lbs and the bolt is loose, as soon as I try to tighten the small center action screw more than snug (20in lbs) you can feel the bolt binding in the raceway. I guess Remington just uses that tight of a tolerance to give us the best quality possible.. BA HA HA HA !!!
That screw is designed to hold the trigger guard on the cheaper models. Only tighten it enough to do that. There is no support around that area to keep you from overtightening it. Best thing to do is glue an insert in the stock and use a 1/2” long one and not run the middle one into the action period
 
Handled and removed the stock, seems like if when reassembled the bolt(and bolt release) function smoothly without binding the firing pin would work properly. If you reassemble and the bolt binds, you did something wrong.
 
That screw is designed to hold the trigger guard on the cheaper models. Only tighten it enough to do that. There is no support around that area to keep you from overtightening it. Best thing to do is glue an insert in the stock and use a 1/2” long one and not run the middle one into the action period
You are absolutely right and I had always though about doing that with the front screw (gluing a block into the stock) but gave up realizing what I intended it for it would be okay and accuracy does not reflect my issues. And yes, wood stock models don't even have the through bolt, just a wood screw to hold the front of the trigger guard. I was going to swap stocks all together but gave up on that and went other directions. I just wanted to point out that it doesn't take much to bind an action. In my case. it only takes 20 inch lbs in the center. There is no gorilla torqueing 100 foot pounds to do it ; )
Dan
 
You are absolutely right and I had always though about doing that with the front screw (gluing a block into the stock) but gave up realizing what I intended it for it would be okay and accuracy does not reflect my issues. And yes, wood stock models don't even have the through bolt, just a wood screw to hold the front of the trigger guard. I was going to swap stocks all together but gave up on that and went other directions. I just wanted to point out that it doesn't take much to bind an action. In my case. it only takes 20 inch lbs in the center. There is no gorilla torqueing 100 foot pounds to do it ; )
Dan
i dont think that binds the action by warping it, think that screw touchs the bolt and puts pressure on it
 
i dont think that binds the action by warping it, think that screw touchs the bolt and puts pressure on it
Middle screw does not extend into the bolt raceway... it’s a blind hole

Correction: This is in fact a through hole, not blind. hoz53
 
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Not on mine- I checked it before I made the above statement and the ten I have do—
You’re correct Hoz, I had to go dig mine out to look. Memory didn’t serve me well, it’s not a blind hole but my bolt is no where close to the top of he hole. Look, I’m not asking for answers here. I’m telling you, my screws do not protrude into the bolt. That’s something even a novice can handle. It binds and that’s it. With little to no support under the center of the action because of the junk plastic stock the action is not rigid enough. Simple as that. I’m sure OP could be in the same boat that’s my only point
Dan
 
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