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Remage style attachment affect on accuracy

SteveOak

Gold $$ Contributor
How does a Remage style barrel compare to a non-Remage style barrel with regards to accuracy?

If a barrel was machined to BR tolerances, would it be as accurate as a non-Remage barrel?
 
Here you go, 23 pages of glory. The good parts are toward the end.

 
I don't think there is much difference but most pre fits are smaller in the shank area which reduces the heat sink qualities and possibly handles high pressures a tad less, clickers may happen a bit sooner but several variables to that. No doubt, a smaller shank over the chamber will expand a bit more under pressure. The flip side is that it may or may not tune a bit easier...fwiw
 
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How does a Remage style barrel compare to a non-Remage style barrel with regards to accuracy?

If a barrel was machined to BR tolerances, would it be as accurate as a non-Remage barrel?

Good enough to get third in heavy gun at the Nationals in WA with my $319 prefit nut barrel. This was just last week I think?

Only missed second by one point I was told. 6 points out of first. I was told.

The only difference is the nut behind the trigger. Not the one on the barrel.

Ps: he put his rifle together himself using a Nucleus action, a Triggertech trigger, and my Revolution benchrest stock. He did skim bed the aluminum bedding block. Total cost for that build was less than $2000 without scope.
 

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I hesitate to even respond to this question in the internet, but against my good judgement, I decided that since I've personally made close to 350 nut barrels (so far) with my own two hands, I am at least qualified to answer the question.

As Jackie Schmidt surmised with his test, there is no difference in performance between a shoulder and nut.
 
I've had nothing but success with nut barrels. My remage 260 has won multiple local matches and continues to put up groups in the .1's.

Remage is no different really than the savage nut. Many savage nut guns have won on the line as well.

I have had both, will continue to have and utilize both.
 
I have not finished the entire thread. Still working on it.

The head stud analogy is rather pursuasive.
 
I have not finished the entire thread. Still working on it.

The head stud analogy is rather pursuasive.

Although, I doubt you could make the argument that I barrel tenon at the low torque numbers that we use to tighten barrels, especially the guys in benchrest to tighten them down (barely past hand tight) is imposing any kind of stretch on the threads. Like a head bolt stretches. So honestly, I don't think they have anything to do with one another.

When I was a young engineer in the 1990s I worked for Springfield Assembly for Navistar building trucks. In the first two years I worked for them, all I did was torque tools. Torque and bolt stretch is one of the most misunderstood things in the entire world.

I think a discussion of the thread growth while it gets hot would be more interesting than whether or not a nut or a shoulder would make any difference. Which if you were to do a load diagram the threads can't tell any difference between a nut and a shoulder.
 
Here you go, 23 pages of glory. The good parts are toward the end.

Well, somebody remembered:)

The OP needs to click on the link. I pretty much covered everything.
 
Well, somebody remembered:)

The OP needs to click on the link. I pretty much covered everything.

Thank you so much Jackie for your wonderful test. Your machining skills are enviable to say the least.

Just in summary of your test the same barrel with the same chamber actually aggregated smaller with the nut. I believe that was the conclusion. Either the shoulder and the nut were the same or the nut actually beat the shoulder.
 
As Jackie mentioned, if the next post from the OP doesn't respond to the content in the thread linked above, time to stop responding to this thread.
 
Here you go, 23 pages of glory. The good parts are toward the end.

"I CAN'T BELIEVE I READ THE WHOLE THING!":oops:
 
The only real caveat to a barrel nut as Jackie mentioned in his test, is being done properly. What he means is action face is true to threads, parallel ground recoil lug and nut face is true to threads. Throw a cheap barrel nut on a factory lug, action and you could end up chasing your tail as tolerance stacking begins to rear its ugly head.

I do like nutted barrels, have shot them with great success. Where I think they can really serve a purpose for some shooters is with fire forming barrels. I shoot 260AI and will screw on my nutted barrel and set headspace to match my shouldered barrel or even a thou or two long so I can be sure my die is actually bumping the shoulder back and getting everything close to where I want it after 1 firing.
 

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