• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Remage build way off on windage

OP, did you remove bases and rings when changing barrels? Of so, any chance you did not get the rings lined up truly perpendicular to the bore and inline with each other before clamping the scope in place? Dual dovetail rings can cause zeroing issues if not lined up; also puts stress on scope. I usually mount this type with a round bar of correct diameter. When the bar lies flat in the bottom of both rings, they should be aligned properly. Just some more guesses as to the source of the problem.
Yes, I did have them off the rifle when changing the barrel. But these dual dovetail rings have the eyeball-like bushing inserts that allow pivoting, eliminating any chance of misalignment.
 
Remington action, my bet is the receiver threads/action face if it's not a newer RR prefix action. The new actions have their own faults, but they are typically straight. Put a straight edge along the action sides up to the muzzle. I'm thinking you'll see the difference from one side to the other. To fix you may be able to just have someone re-face the receiver with the bolt raceway. You could have someone true up your barrel nut first just to be certain that's true.
 
Apparently the .222 barrel shot just fine when he had that setup on the rifle. Then he switched to a cheaper, do it yourself, remage setup that was done on a production line somewhere (just like a factory setup) instead of having a good gunsmith put on a new barrel. I can see what's wrong with this picture.
 
Apparently the .222 barrel shot just fine when he had that setup on the rifle. Then he switched to a cheaper, do it yourself, remage setup that was done on a production line somewhere (just like a factory setup) instead of having a good gunsmith put on a new barrel. I can see what's wrong with this picture.

Criterion 'remage' barrels are generally VERY good in quality and function. In any threading/chambering setup I'm having trouble seeing how a barrel would be this far off. Just an example, I have rebarreled previously 'good shooter' Remington's and have experienced the same issue with a barrel that was threaded and chambered through the headstock with all machining in one setup.... and when placing barreled receiver in a previously bedded stock the barrel was way off in left field. A facing cut on the receiver face solved the issue utilizing a threaded tenon mandrel. Looking at any old Remington factory action face it's amazing to me they did point straight.

This is only my opinion, but I'm betting on the action face/threads. With the barrel removed and a good square you could quickly determine whether this is the issue or not.
 
Yes, I did have them off the rifle when changing the barrel. But these dual dovetail rings have the eyeball-like bushing inserts that allow pivoting, eliminating any chance of misalignment.

Not to be argumentative, but I have used a number of them and if the DD type rings are misaligned very much, the inserts will not take care of the problem unless the plus and minus inserts are used. Typically, the plus/minus inserts were designed to be used when there is difficulty in centering the scope when the rings are properly installed. I think Frank Blum's question above on the nut torque was in reference to the barrel nut, not rings.
 
We get this fixed yet? The advise is all over the place and now it's developed into an argument. OP, where are we on this? Put the original recoil lug back.
 
How did you install the lug? Pin it to the receiver or unscrew the pin and use a centering tool?
I used Northlands action wrench, that Has a special attachment that holds the recoil lug in place as you tighten down the barrel and night. No pins were used.
 
I used my new laser cartridge and confirmed that impact was WAY off to the left, just on the wall inside my house. I then removed the scope and took both rings and bases off rifle. I did the straight edge trick, looking for a crooked barrel, using 10at6's and Msalm's thinking. Doing that, and closely observing the free-floating barrel's clearance down the stock, everything looked true. I installed just the four mounting bolts in the receiver and sighted down them at the wall while the laser was projecting down the bore, at the wall. Thank God they lined up laterally! I spun the front base 180* when I installed it, (thanks Alton9), just to try something, and installed the rear base as before. I put the windage knob on my scope in mechanical center and remounted the scope and torqued all bolts down to Burris's specs. When I used the laser on the wall, the red dot was EXACTLY on my vertical crosshair of my scope. I am elated! Honestly, there were so many variables, (as a couple of you stated), that I don't know what was wrong. Now, I need to go to the range and verify with live ammo and continue breaking in the new barrel. My fingers and toes are all crossed hoping that I corrected this problem. Thanks to everybody for your help and suggestions. I do appreciate it!
 
Last edited:
I used my new laser cartridge and confirmed that impact was WAY off to the left, just on the wall inside my house. I then removed the scope and took both rings and bases off rifle. I did the straight edge trick, looking for a crooked barrel, using 10at6's and Msalm's thinking. Doing that, and closely observing the free-floating barrel's clearance down the stock, everything looked true. I installed just the four mounting bolts in the receiver and aimed them at the wall while the laser was projecting down the bore, at the wall. Thank God they lined up laterally! I spun the front base 180* when I installed it, (thanks Alton9), just to try something, and installed the rear base as before. I put the windage knob on my scope in mechanical center and remounted the scope and torqued all bolts down to Burris's specs. When I used the laser on the wall, the red dot was EXACTLY on my vertical crosshair of my scope. I am elated! Honestly, there were so many variables, (as a couple of you stated), that I don't know what was wrong. Now, I need to go to the range and verify with live ammo and continue breaking in the new barrel. My fingers and toes are all crossed hoping that I corrected this problem. Thanks to everybody for your help and suggestions. I do appreciate it!
Well Done
 
I used my new laser cartridge and confirmed that impact was WAY off to the left, just on the wall inside my house. I then removed the scope and took both rings and bases off rifle. I did the straight edge trick, looking for a crooked barrel, using 10at6's and Msalm's thinking. Doing that, and closely observing the free-floating barrel's clearance down the stock, everything looked true. I installed just the four mounting bolts in the receiver and sighted down them at the wall while the laser was projecting down the bore, at the wall. Thank God they lined up laterally! I spun the front base 180* when I installed it, (thanks Alton9), just to try something, and installed the rear base as before. I put the windage knob on my scope in mechanical center and remounted the scope and torqued all bolts down to Burris's specs. When I used the laser on the wall, the red dot was EXACTLY on my vertical crosshair of my scope. I am elated! Honestly, there were so many variables, (as a couple of you stated), that I don't know what was wrong. Now, I need to go to the range and verify with live ammo and continue breaking in the new barrel. My fingers and toes are all crossed hoping that I corrected this problem. Thanks to everybody for your help and suggestions. I do appreciate it!

Easy thing to do. I lap my rings. Of course i don't use the burris rings. I try to keep front and rear together when changing them but invariably they get mixed up. Finally i got smart and got me an etching tool an put a little f and r on the side of.the rings.
 
I’m sorry Frank, I misunderstood your question. I put 50 foot pounds on the barrel nut.
That shouldn't have been too much. I have only done one. Didn't use a torque wrench because I could not find a consensus on all the forums I visited. Snugged it up by hand and gave the wrench a couple raps with a rubber mallet. Still tight after 600 rounds. I am a precision kind of guy. That went against the grain a little. lol
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
166,278
Messages
2,215,467
Members
79,508
Latest member
Jsm4425
Back
Top