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Remage barrels?

savagedasher said:
My point was after the barrel was removed without a action wrench your not taking the advantage of the nut. A couple here talk about loosing head space when installing a barrel. With a action wrench and v blocks both the barrel and the action is held . When you tighten the barrel nut the thread are being pull away from the bolt face. With the proper tools you insert the head space gauge with a lite touch holding the action and the barrel then tighten the nut. That increases the head space. That is my point. Larry
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HeadSPAceo_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_Ois Guffey here???:D:D
 
Have two McGowan Remages, both shoot at least 1/3 MOA, happy camper.

Those worry about headspacing lack experience. I use a homemade vise holding the action. Perhaps it takes 2-3 attempts at tightening the nut to get the headspace correct per GO and NOGO gauges, but if you have such gauges, it's a simple process. If it doesn't pass just loosen and try again. Not rocket science.
 
I took my old action/barrel to a local pro for disassembly, and he wanted to charge me ten bucks. I jewed him up to 20, and he grudgingly took it. He preformed the separation with no damage, and away I went.

I had found go/no go gauges on e-bay, as well as this wrench.

s-l225.jpg
Putting my new Pac Nor barrel on was as easy as falling off a log. I put the final cinch on my nut with a couple smacks with a plastic hammer. Then put tasteful witness marks on barrel, nut, and action for future removal and replacement.

Rifle is an easy .5 MOA shooter, and better. I will do this again. jd
 
Tim Singleton said:
The biggest negative IMO for a Remington. Is the average guy getting the factory barrel off without ruining his action.

not as easy as one may think
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You are right about this. You need a lot of heat on the barrel by the threads. So, much so that the action will be smoking due to the red loctite inside turning to ash, which there is a LOT of red loctite on those factory threads. Then you will still need a cheater bar on your action wrench to break it loose.

Much easier on brand new action that you bought from Budsguns or Northland!!!
 
Southern Precision can make you a Remage barrel from a Bartlein blank. Hand made with very, very tight tolerances. I would not hesitate to say his nut barrels will shoot with any shouldered barrels.

I have not noticed that my rifle accuracy has gone down since going to nut barrels. Quite the contrary. And I will say that the guy doing the machining on a nut barrel makes a big difference. My latest barrel is a Criterion blank but the machining was done by Craddock Precision. And this Craddock barrel shoots better than a Criterion barrel that is machined and chambered by a CNC. Of course, it is the data set of ONE at this point, but everyone that came in contact with the Craddock barrel said it had the best threads anyone had ever seen, and the chamber is cut separately, by a man who all he does is cut chambers. Concentric ones...
 
One thing I like about nut barrels. I control the headspace. I can set my headspace to my brass that is full length sized, and the shoulder never moves. No need for shoulder bumping and all that nonsense. Just full length resize on my die and then I fit the headspace to my brass. Easy. And I don't have to get permission from anyone to do it.

In fact, the thing I like most about nut barrels is I don't have to get permission from anyone on anything. I have my own reamers, I get the barrels cut by a good machinist using my reamer, and Fedex brings it to my house, and I am the captain of my own ship after that... No endless discussions about this or that. Just go shoot.
 
I think my next one's gonna be for an old Ruger 77--early seventies vintage. Sporter contour 243 or some such.

I simply haven't heard of anyone doing this with a reputable barrel who hasn't had good results. Total cost from Pac Nor comes in a little north of 500 bucks, but that aint bad for turning a sow's ear into a silk purse. jd
 
urbanrifleman said:
You are right about this. You need a lot of heat on the barrel by the threads. So, much so that the action will be smoking due to the red loctite inside turning to ash, which there is a LOT of red loctite on those factory threads. Then you will still need a cheater bar on your action wrench to break it loose.

Much easier on brand new action that you bought from Budsguns or Northland!!!
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Agreed. I've taken apart multiple factory Savages, they can be tought but with some heat not bad. I've taken apart ONE Factory Remington. It was awful. Multiple tries over several evenings. I finally got it apart..a sledgehammer was involved...and my homemade vise is no more.

Regarding accuracy, I'd need someone to show me hard evidence there is a difference. The most accurate rifle I own is a 338 Edge on a Stiller with a McGowan Remage. Stupid small groups, took 3rd at 2000 yards.
 
Donnie the engineer that invented all the "stuff" that makes a Savage a Savage was an absolute genius. But the only thing stopping me from owning a savage is the design of the bolt and the sear that makes it tough to make a good trigger work. If the bolt had a sear like a Mauser or Remington I would be all over one. The 783 has the Savage advantages and the sear in the right place, but didn't set it up with a 700 trigger. I had a 783 for my next project but Hannah weaseled me out of it. The 700 that had the Jarrett barrel is in dire need of a new barrel and I think that this my be the time to grow a nut.
 
ebb said:
Donnie the engineer that invented all the "stuff" that makes a Savage a Savage was an absolute genius. But the only thing stopping me from owning a savage is the design of the bolt and the sear that makes it tough to make a good trigger work. If the bolt had a sear like a Mauser or Remington I would be all over one. The 783 has the Savage advantages and the sear in the right place, but didn't set it up with a 700 trigger. I had a 783 for my next project but Hannah weaseled me out of it. The 700 that had the Jarrett barrel is in dire need of a new barrel and I think that this my be the time to grow a nut.
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My Rifle Basix Sav 2 in my one Savage bench gun rivals my Jewels at about 4 oz.
 
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ebb said:
Donnie the engineer that invented all the "stuff" that makes a Savage a Savage was an absolute genius. But the only thing stopping me from owning a savage is the design of the bolt and the sear that makes it tough to make a good trigger work. If the bolt had a sear like a Mauser or Remington I would be all over one. The 783 has the Savage advantages and the sear in the right place, but didn't set it up with a 700 trigger. I had a 783 for my next project but Hannah weaseled me out of it. The 700 that had the Jarrett barrel is in dire need of a new barrel and I think that this my be the time to grow a nut.
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I hear ya. I like my Savage accutrigger's that I have tuned, but my Jewell in my Hall action is smooth and 100% reliable. If you really are thinking of a nut and barrel give Northland Shooters Supply a call and ask a question or two and see if it's something you may want to do. You will not be pressured but will come away with something more to think about. My 30" Criterion .308 will hold x ring waterline at 1000 yards.
 
My latest Criterion nut barrel was machined by Craddock Precision from a Criterion blank as an alternate to the more expensive Rock Creek and Bartlein.

I have never seen a barrel foul like this thing. It is a 243 and it does shoots great, even fouled. But my other 243 is a Bartlein 5r and it fouls so little it's not even worth talking about.
 
urbanrifleman said:
My latest Criterion nut barrel was machined by Craddock Precision from a Criterion blank as an alternate to the more expensive Rock Creek and Bartlein.

I have never seen a barrel foul like this thing. It is a 243 and it does shoots great, even fouled. But my other 243 is a Bartlein 5r and it fouls so little it's not even worth talking about.
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My Criterion is quite the opposite, very little copper. Now my x caliber on the other hand is like your Criterion, it is also a .243... shoots great.
 
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