Alex Wheeler
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Im not commenting on any particular thing here, just some random thoughts on borescopes. When it comes to using a bore scope there is certainly a bit of a learning curve. But if your mapping out the bore and grooves when your dialing in a barrel and then comparing it to what you see when you bore scope the chamber after its done, its not that hard to figure out what your seeing in a throat. I had started a thread about this where I was starting to post some videos of different throats to explain it, but no longer do youtube so no more videos for me. Most of what you see in a throat is the shape of the groove. For example, the "straight belt" looking throat as its was called is showing that the shape of the groove is consistent and its the correct radius for its diameter, as well as the throat being concentric. Yes you absolutely can see a non-concentric throat with a bore scope. I have come to expect this as the norm for a 6mm Krieger. Its the odd one out that doesnt look that way from them. Bartlien and Hawk Hill do this well too and I just cut a Mullerworks that was as good as it gets. Many times a throat will have a curved look to the cut, that usually means the middle of the groove is slightly deeper or shallower than than the edges, I call this radius error. It just means the radius of the groove is not perfect for its diameter. Some times the cut will look slanted, that usually means one side of the groove is deeper than the other. All of that is controlled by the guy grinding the cutter and cutting the grooves. I have had some with oversized grooves, you will see lapping back to the neck on every groove as the reamer wont clean up the groove. Or that can also be a reamer with a small freebore diameter. In one case I had a barrel with one groove .0005" deeper than the other 4. The maker sent out a new one, but since it was in the lathe I chambered it and gave it to a friend, 4 even grooves and one with lapping back to the neck. If your paying attention to the indicator you will know what the throats going to look like before you ever scope it. As a gunsmith I do prefer a very even groove. It makes dialing in a barrel very precisely easy. When you have groove variation you have to get very very picky about where in the groove you indicate. You dont want to dial off the low spot in one groove and the high spot in the opposing groove for example. Most of the minor shapes you see mean nothing, so long as they are consistent groove to groove everything is concentric. You can even get a rough idea if the barrel is on the tight side or loose side if you know your reamers freebore diameter. You could easily spot the difference in 2 barrels with a .0005" groove diameter difference if I pointed out where to look, so long as they were cut with the same reamer. When it comes to buttons, dont expect to see a straight cut in a groove or land its just not how they are shaped. And that does not stop me from using buttons. They just take longer to dial in. But some of my best have been buttons. If you learn to understand what your looking a scope is a good tool, if your ocd and everything gets in your head it may be a problem for you.
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