Remage barrels?

[OIF/OEF]

Do you heat the barrel to get it to come loose easier....

 

[Tim Singleton]

You have to heat the action on some to get the action to expand clamp the barrel in a 10 ton press with wooden blocks then knock the crap out of the action wrench.

The factory barrel usually gets the finish rubbed off by the blocks. The action if it has to be heated will need refinished

I have heard of them coming loose without heating. I haven't been that lucky with the three I've done

 

[MrMajestic]

Tim, I use Vee blocks with lead and rosin in a 25 ton press. A rear entry action wrench with a long pipe takes care of the rotational force. Haven't needed heat or marked a barrel, YET ???

 

[Dgd6mm]

Just get rid of the Remington, and go with a Savage, you owe it to yourself.... oh boy I know i'm fixing to get trampled.... ;D

 

[waterfwlr]

Just get rid of the Remington, and go with a Savage, you owe it to yourself.... oh boy I know i'm fixing to get trampled.... ;D

He should! He doesn't owe it to himself, he owes it to Savage. The originators!

 

[joshb]

Well.....to come out of the closet, as it were, I do own a Savage. I bought an old 110 out of a guy's collection that had never been fired. My curiosity got the better of me. I'd read a lot of posts from the lovers and haters. Maybe I just got lucky but this gun shoots. .223 into a half in at 100. I thought that was pretty good for a cheap gun. Made me reconsider my options, for some "extra guns"I have just lay in around.

 

[Tim Singleton]

Tim, I use Vee blocks with lead and rosin in a 25 ton press. A rear entry action wrench with a long pipe takes care of the rotational force. Haven't needed heat or marked a barrel, YET ???

I would have been better off finding someone like you. That had the experience taking a rem action and the proper tools.

I just wanted guys to be aware it's not as easy done as a savage

 

[KMart]

I just wanted guys to be aware it's not as easy done as a savage
[/quote]







Not all savages aren't without their trouble. I had one that even after the barrel nut was off, I had to chase down a barrel vice to get the action and barrel separated.

 

[savagedasher]

Buy a Wheeler Action wrench # 2 fits small savage and Remington actions with modifications it works with large shank savage also.. Using a rear entry tool you can create problems. When clamping a barrel put the clamp on the barrel as close to the action helps.
The 105 lb women that installs the nut on a savage can make the nut hard to remove also. Holding the action and the barrel nut wrench make it easy.
If the nut is loose and the barrel don't want to un screw the front mount screw could be holding it.
Remember to use lube on the threads. Larry

 

[TC260]

Y'all making this hard on yourselves. I take the barreled action to my smith and let him yank the factory tube . $25 and done. I figure he's got the heavy duty tools and expertise to get it off without damaging anything then I can fool with the aftermarket barrels myself from there after.

 

[GrocMax]

Three years ago the patents ran out, now everybody and their cousins are nutting barrels, floating bolt heads, and bladed triggers.

Remage = Remington 783!

Mossage- Mossberg 4x4/MVP!

 

[savagedasher]

Y'all making this hard on yourselves. I take the barreled action to my smith and let him yank the factory tube . $25 and done. I figure he's got the heavy duty tools and expertise to get it off without damaging anything then I can fool with the aftermarket barrels myself from there after.

Two trips to the gun shop an you have the tools to do it yourself . And the proper tool for installing it. When you hold the action and tighten the nut. that is the proper way. Holding the barrel and tighten the nut is not the correct way. Larry

 

[GrocMax]

If using a headspace gauge while tightening the nut, I find putting a shim of plastic like bag plastic, about .004"-.006" thick on the bolt face helps. The barrel tends to tighten a scootch when the nut bears down and you get friction on the nut/lug junction and the 'bagplastigage' gets it right most of the time where gauge only tends to set headspace short a thou or two.

 

[savagedasher]

If using a headspace gauge while tightening the nut, I find putting a shim of plastic like bag plastic, about .004"-.006" thick on the bolt face helps. The barrel tends to tighten a scootch when the nut bears down and you get friction on the nut/lug junction and the 'bagplastigage' gets it right most of the time where gauge only tends to set headspace short a thou or two.

If you hold the action rather then the barrel when you tighten the nut the head space increases.
Larry

 

[Tim Singleton]

Y'all making this hard on yourselves. I take the barreled action to my smith and let him yank the factory tube . $25 and done. I figure he's got the heavy duty tools and expertise to get it off without damaging anything then I can fool with the aftermarket barrels myself from there after.

That was the purpose of my post. To let guys know it would be best to find someone with the right equipment

 

[Dgd6mm]

The Remington's that start without the nut are harder to remove then a nutted Savage. This is not an issue with those of us that have the proper tools.

 

[TC260]

Y'all making this hard on yourselves. I take the barreled action to my smith and let him yank the factory tube . $25 and done. I figure he's got the heavy duty tools and expertise to get it off without damaging anything then I can fool with the aftermarket barrels myself from there after.

Two trips to the gun shop an you have the tools to do it yourself . And the proper tool for installing it. When you hold the action and tighten the nut. that is the proper way. Holding the barrel and tighten the nut is not the correct way. Larry

Rereading my post I don't see anything mentioning that I don't have an action wrench or that I'm trying to hold the barrel and tighten the nut . That's because I do have an action wrench and I'm not trying to hold the barrel and tighten the nut .

The point was, the factory barrel only has to be removed once and to me, $25 is cheap insurance to ensure the initial removal goes smoothly. One damaged action can pay for a lot of removals. I'm not saying you or anybody else can't remove factory installed barrels successfully yourselves. I'm quite certain you can. Just pointing out that before shadetree gunsmiths reach for the blowtorch there's an easy and inexpensive alternative .

 

[Tim Singleton]

Y'all making this hard on yourselves. I take the barreled action to my smith and let him yank the factory tube . $25 and done. I figure he's got the heavy duty tools and expertise to get it off without damaging anything then I can fool with the aftermarket barrels myself from there after.

Two trips to the gun shop an you have the tools to do it yourself . And the proper tool for installing it. When you hold the action and tighten the nut. that is the proper way. Holding the barrel and tighten the nut is not the correct way. Larry

Rereading my post I don't see anything mentioning that I don't have an action wrench or that I'm trying to hold the barrel and tighten the nut . That's because I do have an action wrench and I'm not trying to hold the barrel and tighten the nut .

The point was, the factory barrel only has to be removed once and to me, $25 is cheap insurance to ensure the initial removal goes smoothly. One damaged action can pay for a lot of removals. I'm not saying you or anybody else can't remove factory installed barrels successfully yourselves. I'm quite certain you can. Just pointing out that before shadetree gunsmiths reach for the blowtorch there's an easy and inexpensive alternative .

+1

 

[savagedasher]

My point was after the barrel was removed without a action wrench your not taking the advantage of the nut. A couple here talk about loosing head space when installing a barrel. With a action wrench and v blocks both the barrel and the action is held . When you tighten the barrel nut the thread are being pull away from the bolt face. With the proper tools you insert the head space gauge with a lite touch holding the action and the barrel then tighten the nut. That increases the head space. That is my point. Larry

 

[MittenMan]

Just in case your reading these posts and wondering about the Remage system and if it works, this group was from my newly done Rem SPS that I replaced the barrel with a McGowen Remage SS 260 Rem. This group was from the first 25 shots down the tube shooting 3 shot test loads at 200 yards. I’m using a Viper barrel vice, midway action wrench and a set of Go and no go gauges from Brownell. Liked the barrel so much had the bride get me a 264 Mag barrel for my name day from McGowen also to replace a factory barrel that was painfully slow, short throated and very inaccurate. Am planning on another in 6mm Creedmore soon for my 260 platform.