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REM 700 Primary Extraction

Bgille6

I put a pre fit barrel on a rem 700 LA, and I’m having serious extraction issues. I know some of the more recent Remington actions have had primary extraction issues. My smith went through the rifle and after throwing a feeler gauge in concluded that there is a primary extraction issue but he will not touch it as he’s very backed up. Does anybody know if Dan at accutig is still timing bolt handles or if there is another competent smith who I can send the necessary parts to?
 
butchlambert said:
Edward, how do you set it up to time it properly and to have the proper amount of primary extraction? A lot of us can puddle a weld.
Click to expand...
I did a couple mock ups with shims and such, and determined that the working surface (the point on the bolt handle buttress that contacts the cam on the action) needed to move forward and left a few mm in each direction. . . so I added material.

To heatsink the butt of the bolt, and avoid issues with the solder fastening the handle to the bolt, I sat it down in a water bath with the weld area just above the surface. This is probably unnecessary, but I wasn't certain.

To practice, I welded dimples onto similarly sized bolts (the sort that hold your car together) on the underside of the head. You need to find settings and geometry that creates good penetration into the head (the bolt handle buttress), but doesn't touch the shaft (the bolt body). A dozen practice runs, and I learned to place a dimple on the back of hex head of the bolt. Relatively high heat and low feed speed for penetration.

When done, you grind and polish 90% of the weld back off, until extraction just clears the bolt lug engagement, leaving welded shim on the working end of the buttress. This isn't as beautiful as competent TIG, but it's almost invisibly small and works just as well.
 
edwardware said:
I did a couple mock ups with shims and such, and determined that the working surface (the point on the bolt handle buttress that contacts the cam on the action) needed to move forward and left a few mm in each direction. . . so I added material.

To heatsink the butt of the bolt, and avoid issues with the solder fastening the handle to the bolt, I sat it down in a water bath with the weld area just above the surface. This is probably unnecessary, but I wasn't certain.

To practice, I welded dimples onto similarly sized bolts (the sort that hold your car together) on the underside of the head. You need to find settings and geometry that creates good penetration into the head (the bolt handle buttress), but doesn't touch the shaft (the bolt body). A dozen practice runs, and I learned to place a dimple on the back of hex head of the bolt. Relatively high heat and low feed speed for penetration.

When done, you grind and polish 90% of the weld back off, until extraction just clears the bolt lug engagement, leaving welded shim on the working end of the buttress. This isn't as beautiful as competent TIG, but it's almost invisibly small and works just as well.
Click to expand...
trying to understand this—- So you did not remove the bolt handle, you welded the original up and ground the weld to the dimensions needed?? Thank You for sharing
 
hoz53 said:
trying to understand this—- So you did not remove the bolt handle, you welded the original up and ground the weld to the dimensions needed?? Thank You for sharing
Click to expand...
Exactly correct. A carefully placed puddle of MIG weld was far less trouble than moving the handle, and resoldering or rewelding.
 
edwardware said:
I did a couple mock ups with shims and such, and determined that the working surface (the point on the bolt handle buttress that contacts the cam on the action) needed to move forward and left a few mm in each direction. . . so I added material.

To heatsink the butt of the bolt, and avoid issues with the solder fastening the handle to the bolt, I sat it down in a water bath with the weld area just above the surface. This is probably unnecessary, but I wasn't certain.

To practice, I welded dimples onto similarly sized bolts (the sort that hold your car together) on the underside of the head. You need to find settings and geometry that creates good penetration into the head (the bolt handle buttress), but doesn't touch the shaft (the bolt body). A dozen practice runs, and I learned to place a dimple on the back of hex head of the bolt. Relatively high heat and low feed speed for penetration.

When done, you grind and polish 90% of the weld back off, until extraction just clears the bolt lug engagement, leaving welded shim on the working end of the buttress. This isn't as beautiful as competent TIG, but it's almost invisibly small and works just as well.
Click to expand...

Not trying to be rude, but it appears that you would be much better served sending it to Dan.
 
butchlambert said:
Not trying to be rude, but it appears that you would be much better served sending it to Dan.
Click to expand...
From a different perspective. . . instead of a ~$120 check, I spent a couple hours reading and practicing on scrap, and I'm a better welder for it.

If the gun was too pretty to work on, it would also be too pretty to take shooting nearly every week.
 
I think Dan charges about $35 to time and tig your bolt handle. I don't kn ow about pretty, but what does that have to do with a proper job?
I do have some decent Miller equipment, but at my age I learned that it is better to let an expert do things that they are better qualified to do. I went through the ego thing years ago doing as well; as I could with what I had.
I commend you for trying, but just wanted to throw a couple things out there.
 
Last edited:
Does Dan weld the original bolt handle back on or replace it with a better design?
I have a 300WM that could use a bit longer bolt handle when I have gloves on.

CW
 
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